Alton starter

My MkIII Interstate anti-kickback clutch worked PERFECTLY for the entire time I had it, over 10 years and many thousands of miles. It used to backfire every once in a while and I liked to blame it on the Boyer ignition, but it could have been just that half-degree out of timing. Since it always worked, ran fine, got good gas mileage, and didn't blue the pipes, I never messed with the timing the entire time I owned it.

I have to say, a properly sorted MkIII is a dang fine machine. My longest single-day ride of 620 miles was on that bike...
 
Did the later Alton's use 6 and not 3 of the plastic shear pucks.
I get in Touch with Alton due to a problem (not same as here) and received a PDF File where they strictly recommend to use only 3 of the pucks.
 
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Thanks for that, you have confirmed my suspicions. I think I will use the Loctite, it is amazingly strong in this type of application, certainly stronger than a tack of weld. I will order some more plastic cylinder things, To use 3 or 6, that is the question.
Cheers
 
Thanks for that, you have confirmed my suspicions. I think I will use the Loctite, it is amazingly strong in this type of application, certainly stronger than a tack of weld. I will order some more plastic cylinder things, To use 3 or 6, that is the question.
Cheers
Alton recommend 3 but due to issues I had and discussions with Paul at Alton I now use 4. Please make sure you also follow their current instructions with torquing the crank nut and loctite.
Regarding the fractured weld I would contact Paul directly, most of the time emails are answered quickly, especially as your now out of the French holiday period.
 
Everyone has their favourite, Alton or CNN but it’s been mentioned above the key to using either starter I would imagine is the ignition system and carburator.
There are stories of serious injury, even broken bones when the motor backfires kicking it over. Why should this be expected not to cause damage to mechanical components?
My experience is with Alton so cannot comment on CNN kit.
Altons method to protect the motor is the nylon sheer pins, they were designed by Alton, size and material to do a job. As has been said to act as a fuse. This they do well and in all honesty with the primary cover off does not take long to fix. Kick starter can still be used till it’s fixed.
I use 4 of the pins with no issues at all. 3 is standard.
I’m also not sure how loctite can be stronger than weld but if the weld was poor Paul should be told!
 
Peter12 out of curiosity can you explain why people should not use 6 pins? Are 6 perhaps so strong as other mechanical damage might occur?
 
Peter12 out of curiosity can you explain why people should not use 6 pins? Are 6 perhaps so strong as other mechanical damage might occur?
I too would like to know this
As far as I can remember mine has the 6 pins fitted
But I've never taken it apart so it is whatever Yves had in there when he sold it too me
 
The Alton sheer pins are actually slightly smaller than 10 mm. I made some yesterday, and they actually measure 0.384". I only had 3 and I wanted to fit 6, so I turned some out of a piece of 1/2" nylon. I had thought that it may have been Delerin, but it was definitely nylon.

Mine sheered quite spontaneously after a year of service. Looking at the polyurethane ones, they definitely had reacted with the ATF in my primary, and that may have had something to do with it. The nylon should be more stable.
 
Peter12 out of curiosity can you explain why people should not use 6 pins? Are 6 perhaps so strong as other mechanical damage might occur?
i'm guessing the shear pins are the first line of defense, so i'm thinking they're using the minimum number of pins to do the job. as someone said, the pins are slightly small than 10mm, and as i remember, i measured my originals and that's why i ordered 3/8 material. anyway, there's a difference of .0187" in diameter - enough to make a difference - don't know. i can say that the 3/8 pins (X3) did not last long. in fact, sheared them in a dozen starts or so. i did buy some 10mm stock, and the durometer number is 80A where as the stock, 3/8"materal is 95A. both are at opposite ends of what's considered the (shore A scale) "hard" range. i'm going to measure the diameter of the components to see which is the better fit and replace accordingly. in any event, i'll bump the number to four. BTW, the yves fix seems to be doing it's job. i'd rather periodically replace the poly pins than shearing the woodruff key, and continually screwing up the crank. i would like alton to send me the specs of those pins, but i doubt they'll share that information with me.
 
this might be a late add to the thread, but a year or so ago, i thought i read on the fourm that McMaster-Carr had the same polyurethane rod material that's used in the alton starter assembly. i'm somewhat thinking this is what was called out. does any know the diameter of the alton shear pins - 3/8" or 10mm? since the starter is euro sourced, i would think 10mm. can anyone verify? i used my 3 spares, and need replacements. shipping on the 6 from RGM is a bit crazy here to the U.S.

EDIT - UPDATE - 3/8" stock is not correct - use 10mm - https://www.mcmaster.com/2656T58/
 
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