Yeah, I tend to be a little dramatic. Truth is I'll do whatever it takes to make the old thing work with the TTi 5-speed. I was having some fun in the winding backroads before I hit all that traffic.
To get the rod out, lay the bike on it's side and it should drop out.
Obviously, that should work with a perfect gearbox for street use. The clutch rod bore in the 5-speed I have is very rough. The full length rod was stuck in there, which is what prompted my question in the first place. If the same thing happened again for whatever reason with two pieces, I'd never get a shorter length out without taking the gearbox apart. My magnet idea wouldn't help either.
Any chance the rod was jamming up in operation and not coming off the adjuster bolt/nut? That could possibly explain the wear on that end of the rod.
The rod easily moves back into the bore all the way, but hung up when about 5/8" was pulled outward. Always went back without obstruction. It is out now, and another one is in its place. Slightly different adjustment strategy to use less of the big dogleg Magura lever. It'll work or it won't.
OK, I'm having difficulty seeing any relevance since there is no mention of a TTi gearbox in the thread you pointed to. I don't need a rod seal with the TTi gearbox. The AMC gearbox mainshaft bore is smoother than the one in the TTi gearbox I have. I said that just now.
A true genius knows when to ask for advice. Just tried to help you figure out why that unusual adjuster wear occurred. Ruling out all thinkable and unthinkable reasons it happened.I also know how to tie my shoes laces. I'm a genius.
Avoiding traffic jams would be ideal, but I think a ball bearing in the mainshaft bore would fix things for the street. As I may or may not have mentioned, I did not have this grinding situation on the adjuster on the RGM clutch with the AMC gearbox that has the ball bearing in the pushrod operating lever housing touching the clutch pushrod. The clutch pushrod spins with the clutch adjuster in that scenario and does not lock up and grind on the adjuster. By the way, I adjusted the clutch the same way I always do when using the AMC gearbox. Doing it for 50 years on the same motorcycle, I think I have a handle on it.
The fact that you post the issue here makes it a collective learning curve issue for everyone who follows your path and swaps to a TTI box. If you find the cause, we all learn something about those boxes. If you fashion a solution, then the issue is known and has a solution. I can't speak for anyone else, but that's why I am interested in threads like this, where you (in this case) are outside the box (pun) of stock parts, and troubleshooting the problem. In your case, the likelihood of someone having all the same parts combination as you (P11, TTI, not sure what clutch) might be remote, but the symptom of the worn rod or adjuster is definitely something I've wondered about since the adjuster end of the pushrod will heat up from the clutch, dry out and eventually be metal against metal even if you put a dab of grease on the tip at installation...
So,.. In MY unsolicited opinion, I think you must be right about the cause. You "stop and go'ed" your adjuster to death... It just doesn't seem possible that the rod could dig that deep into the adjuster from being just a tiny bit too tight. That damage had to happen under rod tension to keep digging deep. So, that kind of means that in stop and go traffic you will have to take it out of gear to avoid that issue, rather than ride the clutch. Granted, that means a lot more foot action shifting in an out of gear, so you are going to have to learn the feel of finding neutral comfortably.
I bet if you didn't do the stop and go while holding the clutch, you wouldn't have had any issues, so I wonder if the ball bearing/split rod will make any difference. You could do the ball bearing trick and grease the ball so the grease stays inside the shaft so it might actually help. Are you planning on trying the ball bearing?? We unsolicited opinion guys want to know....
