'74 Commando 850 refurb

jae

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I think I like the clubman bars on in this orientation
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I see why it was said to make sure the master cylinder would work with these bars, but I think I'm going late model on the brakes and switches. I like the digital controlled turn signals and high beam controls with momentary buttons... We'll see what the budget allows once I can figure out the cost of the "knowns" on the list I posted earlier.
 

jae

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as for those carbs...

they aren't easy to get off.
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hopeful after the first one came out clean
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overall, about the cleanest set of carbs I've ever pulled off a bike
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Either drained or not had fuel in them since last cleaning. Leaves one optimistic.

I just had a very nice uneventful ride which left me feeling invigorated and optimistic myself...… Just waiting for the sky to fall now.
 

gortnipper

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Those should not be nuts/studs on the central carb mounts, but rather Allen head caps. You then use a key with the short end shortened by half to get in there.
 

L.A.B.

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Those should not be nuts/studs on the central carb mounts, but rather Allen head caps.

Are you looking at the carb flange nuts/studs? The manifold-to-head fasteners look like normal cap heads.
 
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Don't worry, once you've had those carbs off a few hundred times, it won't be so difficult.:D
Righto there! I've got that routine down to where it's not even a minor nuisance to pull, clean, & install..... I still don't find pleasure in the task though.
 

jae

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I don't think I've used regular allen keys in a couple of years since buying my set of t-handle hex keys, but there was no way those t-handles would fit in that middle area to get to those inner manifold bolts. Probably took me as long to find the right size allen key as to unbolt that first manifold.
 

Tornado

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I don't think I've used regular allen keys in a couple of years since buying my set of t-handle hex keys, but there was no way those t-handles would fit in that middle area to get to those inner manifold bolts. Probably took me as long to find the right size allen key as to unbolt that first manifold.
I find a little micro ratchet wrench with hex Allen bit can get intothe mani to head socket bolts reasonably well. No need to remove key, reposition lever arm and insert repeatably to get the bolts out/in.

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Tornado

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Nice, thanks.
Now I can quit cutting off my hex wrenches.
I'm thinking to grind back the micro kits hex bit as it is a wee bit long such that as bolt come out it gets more difficult to remove the tool. I just get bolts loose enough to complete by finger turning.
 
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Kinda anal, but I've been using the same cut down hex wrench since I got the bike years ago.... Lost about everything else though. Just to move into the new times I've been considering a set of ball-end tee handle doo-dads because my fingers don't bend very well anymore.

Ratchet looks good, but could cause my head to explode from too much new.
 
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I've got large stiff fingers and turning those screws is not the least bit of fun on a cold day. Snap, crackle, pop.... hurting all the way, and a ratchet skins up knuckles when the shakes come on so it becomes a sort of no win scenario for me, but those buggers are coming out if I have to use explosives to get it done.
Right now I'm trying to decide just how much the oil leaking at the pushrod tunnels annoys me because that's going to be a real circus for fingers & shakes. Pray for me because my left boot is catching oil.
 

grandpaul

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I bought a set of ball-end allen wrenches at Sears about 20 years ago, perfect tool for the job. use the long end to get in there, you have to wiggle it around between the rear frame downtubes and web plate, but they JUST fit, and the ball ends let you get the right angle to tweak. Then, you can slip a small nut driver over the short end to give you leverage.

Once or twice I've cut down the outer edge of the inner hole on each intake to first install the insulators and inner screws, then slip the intakes in (with carbs already attached). It helped, but I've since gotten better at it, without having to cut them down...
 

Scout63

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Great thread. Every bike tells a story. I’m looking forward to this one.
 

jae

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finally getting parts in to get the carbs back together... the plastic float bowl plugs disintegrated when I tried to remove them, so I got some brass plugs to replace them. I also don't know that there was anything wrong with the floats, but figured I'd go ahead and put in some new floats/needles that are supposed to be ethanol safe.

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Ran both carbs through the ultrasonic cleaner, then pulled each screw and jet to blow everything out with compressed air, and install new o-rings before reassembly.

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Tornado

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Be sure to test fuel passages from down bottom of bowls and then from carb body to jets. I had blockage on the fuel side passage in carb body but could still get air or cleaner to spray out jets from the air passage side. I followed Bushmans guide to finally clear it drilling out the blanked side for mixture screw, clearing with some wire poking and pushing a wd40 straw up from carb underside pickup hole, bending past the 90 deg elbow and all the way to the next junction. I sealed up the drilled hole by tapping and fitting a cut off mixture screw with some locktite as sealant.

Here's the Bushman's Tuning Guide for Amal Carbs:
http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans Carb Tuning.html
 
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