1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play

Depends how bad they are, and / or how bad the followers are.

If the bores are bad, and you’re buying new followers anyway you might consider this option:

Engine

Engine
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
 
Also managed to find a local vapour blaster who was good, fast, and cheap! Usually one only gets to pick 2 of the 3.

Before (only ultrasonically cleaned):



After:





Will have to run them through the ultrasonic cleaner again to ensure all the oil passageways are clear.

Have some Kibblewhite valves waiting at the post office for pickup this week, then need to stop procrastinating and put in an order to Andover for some engine rebuild bits.
 
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Does anyone have any experience purchasing and installing MAP rods?

Might be me overthinking, but I have started to consider saving for a set for peace of mind ....

I did some searching on the forum and didn't find much info.

All I know is my buddy’s dad swears by them and put them in just about all his British bikes.
 
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The red circled area isn't a large crack that's been welded, or is it?

(very typical crack/break location when a Commando lets go)
aabike.jpg
 
grandpaul said:
The red circled area isn't a large crack that's been welded, or is it?

(very typical crack/break location when a Commando lets go)
Click to expand...
Hello grandpaul,

It doesn't appear to have been repaired. Instead it looks like a really rough casting.










I may need to get the dremmel out and clean up some of rough edges.
 
SEd27 said:
Does anyone have any experience purchasing and installing MAP rods?

Might be me overthinking, but I have started to consider saving for a set for peace of mind ....

I did some searching on the forum and didn't find much info.

All I know is my buddy’s dad swears by them and put them in just about all his British bikes.
Click to expand...
If you search in the forum , you will find people having problem with the cap end bolts touching the case in some area , so you need either to grind the case (where the bolts hits the case ) or grind the rod bolts ...........I have done it with a pair of steal rods with mk3 case , though with JS steal rods in 850 it's OK . I will find the post ............
 
www.accessnorton.com

connecting rod clearance

I've got a set of new H beam connecting rods for my 850 BUT the cap and ARP bolts project further than stock actually scraping the inside of the crankcase at certain positions. It's been suggested to file the bolt heads to get sufficient clearance...but I don't appreciate the mod, possible loss...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
SEd27 said:
Hello grandpaul,

It doesn't appear to have been repaired. Instead it looks like a really rough casting.










I may need to get the dremmel out and clean up some of rough edges.
Click to expand...

Looks like a mold parting line to me ...
 
marinatlas said:
www.accessnorton.com

connecting rod clearance

I've got a set of new H beam connecting rods for my 850 BUT the cap and ARP bolts project further than stock actually scraping the inside of the crankcase at certain positions. It's been suggested to file the bolt heads to get sufficient clearance...but I don't appreciate the mod, possible loss...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Click to expand...
I had read about some interference issues, but most seemed to be in older threads.

Wasn’t sure if the issue had been resolved or not.
 
Finally got the swing arm separated from the cradle.

Well, it actually wasn’t me. I had ship it off to my dad‘s buddy who happens to have a rather large shop press and torch.

 


There was some pretty good galling at the spindle ends. But I was expecting some issues as one of the previous owners had hit oil zerks with a grease gun.
 
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The good news is the spindle cross tube does not appear to be wallowed out.

I am more concerned about the stressed mounting holes and notched edge of the cradle.

Is this one worth trying to save, or should I be searching for a completely a suitable replacement?

 
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SEd27 said:
Never thought of it that way.... Yes, the XS has silver barrels. Might be nice to have one each of each colour.

Truthfully, when I think of a British motorcycle, I think of a black barrels.
Click to expand...
Great pictures - I will be pulling my 71 engine apart and you have given me plenty to check out as I go...I basically only have myself to blame if I find anything out of sorts ...although I am the second owner; it's been in my care for the last 42 years
 
SEd27 said:
The crankshaft was complete but needed to be split to check the the sludge trap. The nuts were staked and looked to have not been disturbed.

View attachment 17503

Made sure to punch/ mark the timing side for re-assembly.

View attachment 17504
Click to expand...
I always stamp them with the point of the "V" facing the direction of rotation.

"Let's see, was it the timing side or the drive side that "V" was pointing to???" Ends that problem.
 
It’s been a while since I have last posted, but have been busy collecting parts:

Original Steel Roadster Tank. it needs a bit of love, but is really solid and rust free inside




“S” Type chain guard from Colin Kelly. Not 100% stock, but period correct and won’t deposit chain lube all over the rear tire.




Norman Hyde stepped seat. Still not sure if I am going to use this and might sell.

Was going to convert to a roadster seat, but realized they don’t make them anymore and don’t have the heart to cut it up just to use the pan.








Just received in the mail today - Madass140 rods and stainless axles.

DHL beat the hell out of the box, but luckily everything made it relatively unscathed.


 
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Started removing the paint from the steel roadster tank. The enviro friendly stripper made short work of the recently applied primer with little effort.

However, it won’t even soften the original paint below. I may have to resort to something higher test (or get it blasted).



 
More parts arriving - the ever elusive and often lost left side cover.

I now have a full steel roadster set. The fiberglass ones can now be retired and hung up on the wall.



 
Finally got some time to work on the bike again.

Picked up some 6 point Koken sockets so I could strip the gearbox.



Surprisingly the components look in relatively good nick.


This said, someone has been in before and replaced the dreaded Portuguese layshaft with a Japanese unit.





Plans are to purchase the Andover rebuild kit and undertake a full refresh with all new seals, bushings, and bearings.

Am also debating installing a reversible camplate to change up the shifting configuration .

I’ve riding Japanese bikes since I was 7 (I’m 42 now) and not sure if I will be able to get used the the traditional Norton pattern.
 
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