Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod

Oh, and that big box was stori g all my primary parts...

I don't believe it broke loose due to testing it; I believe it WAS loose, and testing it freed it from it's present position. Far better that you found out now as Fast Eddie said, than when it blew apart, taking out your primary cover and who knows what else possibly including your left ankle!

And don't worry about the state of your garage, it's much tidier than mine.

grandpaul said:

.......And don't worry about the state of your garage, it's much tidier than mine.

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If I had the time I would post a picture of my garage here in Japan- Small but much better than what I had down in Yokohama. Resto-mod looking good Muttster

I am so reassured by the tagline on the box.

I had a bugger of a time removing the rotor key when I stripped down the bike. Of course, I forgot about that until I tried to get the new one in.

It would only go in half way, and bound up in the same spot even if I flipped the key.



So I looked closer and coud see why.



I spent a good while with my grandpa's old toolmaker's files to get the hump out so I could get the key in finally.

I have never been able to strobe this bike to time it. It has never worked. I have always done it by feel.

So, putting it back together I bought a degree wheel to get it right. This is 28 BTDC. Not exactly what I would expect, but it is what this bike always has been.





So I scribed some new marks on the new rotor, and hopefully will be sorted now.

I shaved about a third off of the alternator stud spacers so I got the stator much better aligned with the rotor.

Finally got the primary buttoned up!



And the RGM kick start lever on.

Ive been saving the best for last. The electrics. My favorite. Not.

Blinkers are blinking too fast. Brake lights not working even though there is continuity everywhere and the switches test ok. Horn doesn't work.

I don't know why I didn't just build my own simple harnass instead of buying a nice cloth loom and adding some bits on.

Yes I do...

David
Just as long as you don't let the smoke out....
...the Prince of Darkness will continue to rule!
Cheers
Rob

I'm confused how the rotor casting timing marks could be so far out from 28 BTDC indicated on the outer primary cover.
I'm looking at some original Lucas rotors and the center keyway is located on a line between the two casting timing marks.
Is your new rotor keyway in the same location?

Bob Z. said:

I'm confused how the rotor casting timing marks could be so far out from 28 BTDC indicated on the outer primary cover.
I'm looking at some original Lucas rotors and the center keyway is located on a line between the two casting timing marks.
Is your new rotor keyway in the same location?

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Yes, and so it was on the old one. I am sure the keyway was cut in the wrong location on the crank.

"Throw it in the reject bin or use it, boss?"

"Put it in."

A while ago I was searching for a nice kill switch and came across this billet Zeta, which the manufacturer told me was a Normally Closed switch. I had to fettle it a bit and have the mounting holes widened by a mm or so, but it was way better than the cheap n cheerful plastic ones I could find, so I went for it.



Turns out, as I was wiring stuff up recently, it is a NO switch, not a NC switch. Bummer.

Also turns out I have a SPDT NC or NO horn relay switch



and I found a suggestion on the Triumph Rat board that led me to the following solution that I wanted to float:

The relay should be wired with power to the coil from the ignition switch. Wire the TriSpark power feed from the Ign Switch, through the NC contacts on the relay, and then to the TS.

1. Connect the Tri-Spark black/yellow wire to 30 and 87a to ignition coil

The ground connection to the relay coil should be wired thru the kill button, thus completing the circuit.

2. Connect 12v- to 85
3. Connect Kill switch to Earth and 86

When you press the kill button with the ignition on, it should energize the coil in the relay, which will in turn open the normally closed contacts 30 & 87a and remove power from the TriSpark.

This should work, eh?

Wow gortniper, it's only a kill switch mate!

I can't answer your question, it's way over my electrickery ability!

But I just wanted to float the question: you're not over processing this a tad are you?

Fast Eddie said:

Wow gortniper, it's only a kill switch mate!

I can't answer your question, it's way over my electrickery ability!

But I just wanted to float the question: you're not over processing this a tad are you?

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Find me a decent NC switch that isn't a cheap ass POS and ugly as snot, and I am over it.

The only reason I m contemplating this is it won't cost me an additional penny and will take a 20A load.

A bit of extra wiring, but it will certainly work.

Sorted the headlight and brake light.

On the latter there are two brown wires from the rear on the new main harnass junction under the tank. I had hooked both of them up with the front brake switch brown wire which caused the light to be always on.

Anyone know what this second brown wire is, I can't see it on the schematic?

gortnipper said:

On the latter there are two brown wires from the rear on the new main harnass junction under the tank. I had hooked both of them up with the front brake switch brown wire which caused the light to be always on.

Anyone know what this second brown wire is, I can't see it on the schematic?

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The rear brake light switch should also have a brown (and a white) wire.

L.A.B. said:

The rear brake light switch should also have a brown (and a white) wire.

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Yes, there are the two browns which join at the spade for the rear switch, one going forward to join with the front brake switch with a bullet at the junction block and the other going rearward to the light.

There is an additional brown bulleted wire from the rear leaving the harness under the tank. When connected at the junction with the other brown wires (from front and rear switches), the brake light is illuminated even though the brakes are not engaged. When disconnected the brake light functions normally.

Curious as to what this additional brown wire is actually for?

gortnipper said:

There is an additional brown bulleted wire from the rear leaving the harness under the tank. When connected at the junction with the other brown wires (from front and rear switches), the brake light is illuminated even though the brakes are not engaged. When disconnected the brake light functions normally.

Curious as to what this additional brown wire is actually for?

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If you are absolutely sure it's a plain brown (and not a brown with a dark tracer) then I have no idea as the only plain brown should be the brake light switches to stop lamp wires as far as I know. :?

As the brake light appears to function normally without it then I suggest you leave it disconnected, at least for the time being.