Fast Eddie
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- Oct 4, 2013
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That’s a real bummer.
Cover my ass (CMA) info: Generally speaking a heat gun won't cause a fire unless you drop fuel on the heating element. The lower settings are enough on the hose to soften it. And of course you can heat the hose away from the fitting during an install. I have heated hose connected to flammable sources on occasion. However, I am not smart enough to worry about it.Great call re heat gun. Will try that this afternoon. And yeah I highly recommend these stands.
Borrowed one once from a friend when trailering a bike and was hooked. They ain’t cheap, but it’s amazing to be able to ride into it and walk away. And it’s a pretty low profile. Ihttps://baxleycompanies.com/
Looking very nice. Well done.Great call re heat gun. Will try that this afternoon. And yeah I highly recommend these stands.
Borrowed one once from a friend when trailering a bike and was hooked. They ain’t cheap, but it’s amazing to be able to ride into it and walk away. And it’s a pretty low profile. Ihttps://baxleycompanies.com/
I was testing a spokes can make the hub out of round and wiggly theory presented earlier in this thread.If you use spoke tension to pull the brake drum toward round the rim will be going very out of round.
Do you have dial indicators on the rim?
Glen
Don't know about your particular hub but I have managed to pull hubs out of round on a couple of occasions by overtitening spokes when trying to pull a buckled wheel rim straightI was testing a spokes can make the hub out of round and wiggly theory presented earlier in this thread.
The rim already laced to the brake hub arrived out of round more or less. Has a hump in it where the rim ends were joined together. Most people would have been on the phone to CRS when it arrived. I used email, but they didn't believe me enough to pay for return shipping. So it is what it is. The Morad rim is a tough rim. It is staying as round as it was. I won't be playing with the spokes anymore though. If this was an standard Excel shoulderless rim it really would be in a world of hurt doing what I tried. The Excel rim is far more pliable and easily moved by spoke tension.
Your really going to like this... NOT
What I did was: I used barn yard technique and got out a set of feeler gauges. The hub protrudes about 1/8" over the inside edge of the brake plate leaving another 3/16" of brake plate visible except where the hub is bent side to side (looks like a wobble). The exposed surface gets about 1/16" narrower there depending on which side you are looking at. I put a feeler gauge in at the widest gap in the hub around the brake plate to determine approximately the gap height. Then rotated the wheel to the narrowest gap point and did the same thing. Basically a go no go test in both places. Also took incremental readings to determine where the error starts. This for me is close enough. However the numbers on the inside on the actual drum liner may not be as bad, but they will be similar. I have yet to work up the give a darn to take the wheel off. It is a real pain in the butt to take off and reinstall the wheel. If the weather was better I'd be motivated enough to take it off and really look at it.
I have done the Emery trick quite a few timesIf you can find someone with a large lathe or a mill it can be sorted.
It sounds like too much runout for the stick on emery fix.
Glen
I've heard the Morad rims are like what mine is like. Not sending the wheel back though. That ship sailed long ago. Shipping it back to Hungary makes it an expensive PITA. I have a feeling I can get it all sorted enough to ride comfortably.I've got Morad flanged alloy on a couple of bikes here. They do move around a lot when being laced, however I was aiming for ten thou runout max when finished.
The bump at the weld is pretty standard. I just ignore a six inch stretch there when trueing.
The only way to get around having the bump is to pay up for Sun rims by Buchanan. They machine their rims after welding such that there is no bump or flat spot.
The bump isn't a problem though and I like the look of the flanged Morads. Also, as you say, they seem to be very strong. Riding two up with luggage we used to break some rear spokes every season with the steel Dunlop rims. Since the switch to Morad alloy a few years ago there haven't been any broken spokes.
Sounds like you will be sending this wheel back to the supplier?
Glen
230mm 4LS Ceriani replica brake sold by Cafe Racer Suspension. They apparently manufacture them. I want to pull it round. It's not budging with spoke tension, but I have some big hammers just waiting to take a crack at it. Kidding, I think I'll use your wraparound the shoe with emery cloth trick. Thanks for posting the process for how you did it.Don't know about your particular hub but I have managed to pull hubs out of round on a couple of occasions by overtitening spokes when trying to pull a buckled wheel rim straight
This has been with a steel rim so maybe more rigid than an alloy?
The adjuster is the critical part230mm 4LS Ceriani replica brake sold by Cafe Racer Suspension. They apparently manufacture them. I want to pull it round. It's not budging with spoke tension, but I have some big hammers just waiting to take a crack at it. Kidding, I think I'll use your wraparound the shoe with emery cloth trick. Thanks for posting the process for how you did it.
I'll stick my nose into this by saying I think you'd have a difficult time with spoke tension or a hammer blow(s).230mm 4LS Ceriani replica brake sold by Cafe Racer Suspension. They apparently manufacture them. I want to pull it round. It's not budging with spoke tension, but I have some big hammers just waiting to take a crack at it. Kidding, I think I'll use your wraparound the shoe with emery cloth trick. Thanks for posting the process for how you did it.