“WHICH PARTS FROM OTHER BIKES FIT THE 961”

cheers will do. Maxi is the large blade type fuse...likely something better around but it worked easy enough for me - finding the extra space was a little issue but easily sorted - and I can get to it without tank removal. If I was doing again would try and go a wire size down. Re the gasket, could try and reuse but little concerned why it's popped out in the first place, bolts seem correct torque.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Inline-Blade-Fuse-Holder-Maxi-30-AMP
 
Make sure your engine breather is not clogged ? Adding crankcase pressure to pop out gasket ? Are you leaking oil ? Can you post a picture of the problem ?
 
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Only oil leak seems to be the rocker gasket with it poking out a little but did occur very quickly would seem. Noticed it when bike broke down with fuse issue after short 4klm ride...will check breather... ta
 
Bakepl said:
Anyone know where I might be able to find a gasket
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Time to get some gasket paper and make your own?
I bought a full set of factory gaskets (or at least that is what i asked for) a year or so back, they are still on the shelf at the moment.
If the factory doesn't rise from the ashes i was thinking of scanning them to have soft copies so i could print out templates. Will see how that works out, happy to share if they prove useful.
And a second to Tony's suggestion on re-use - i pulled the primary recently and that gasket came off cleanly, it will be going back on.
 
TonyA said:
View attachment 14626 View attachment 14627 Hello Ken , You make it look easy ! But in reality most of us would have a hard time of it. When I run out of Talon cush rubbers and they run out of stock , I will go the route of getting the hub machined to fit the BST cush rubbers. I suppose I should buy a set of those BST types for the machine shop measurments when the time comes. By the way guys , the TCDR-1 Talon cush rubbers can be purchased in the USA by going to DUBYA Inc in California and they are authorized by Talon to order and sell to US/Canada . In the UK , you can go direct to Talon or any Talon dealer . The durometer or hardness of the newest cush rubbers is the best so far I have ever seen . If Norton had been using these from day one we might never have been complaining !
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Oh. By the way, thanks for the DUBYA info, Tony. Too bad I didn't see that until the weekend when they are closed. Got my fingers crossed. If they have them in stock, I'll only get a few sets as not to be a hoarder.
 
Britfan60 said:
Oh. By the way, thanks for the DUBYA info, Tony. Too bad I didn't see that until the weekend when they are closed. Got my fingers crossed. If they have them in stock, I'll only get a few sets as not to be a hoarder.
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Just bought a clutch slave cylinder from Oberon.
Well you never know!
 
Britfan60 said:
Oh. By the way, thanks for the DUBYA info, Tony. Too bad I didn't see that until the weekend when they are closed. Got my fingers crossed. If they have them in stock, I'll only get a few sets as not to be a hoarder.
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They don't have them in stock. They need to order them and because they receive their items on "palletized loads" it can take 5 weeks. I paid for 2 sets on Friday and the contact at DUBYA said he was putting together an order this weekend. If you like, give him a call on Monday morning. His name is Josh Lynn and his number is 714-279-0200.
 
Much appreciated, Sarge. There's no rush, so if its month wait, I'm good. I just know I will need a set this season.
….10 minutes later.....Ordered them. According to Josh, Re: discontinuing: More than likely, Talon will discontinue making that hub, KTM did use it, but no longer, but may continue making the cush drive rubbers because they used those rubbers in other quite a few hubs.
I ordered a few sets. Excellent person to speak to.
 
Hi,
Just thought I’d add my recent experience to the Cush Drive thread. Last week while I had the wheels off for new tyres I checked the Cush drives and sure enough they were well worn so I started tracking down new ones. Got onto the local Talon rep here in Aus, as per earlier reports here, John Titman Racing in Brisbane. They had the new type in stock so I ordered a set through a local bike shop. They turned up a couple of days later and I duly began to install them. Then it got a bit tricky. The drive rubber would fit in the hub fine and it would fit on the drive bolts fine but it won’t fit both. This must be due to the extra hardness of the newer type and not being able to compress it enough once the rubber is in the hub. I took them to a local polyurethane manufacturer and measured the hardness at 95 on the Shore A scale, the old ones measured about 80. A bit of collaboration with an engineer type mate and we decided the best way to go was to machine the heads of the drive bolts rather than try and machine the actual drive rubbers. These we turned down to 19.6mm which gave me a nice push fit, this meant removing approximately .9mm off the diameter of the head. This worked a treat, there’s plenty of body to the bolt head, and the rear is back together and feels great. Next step is to try and turn up some polyurethane rod for future changes, a 300mm long, 32mm diameter rod in Shore A 90 polyurethane costs about $25 AUD so would be much more economical as well, the ones from JTR were $18 AUD each.
Also just to add, the rubbers I changed were the second lot and were fitted at 5,750 kl at the first annual service, the bike now has 18,000 kl, so not too bad.
 
Is there any indication from the bike that the Cush drive rubbers need replacing? Or are they something you replace on a regular basis say every 6,000 miles?
 
nopdog said:
Is there any indication from the bike that the Cush drive rubbers need replacing? Or are they something you replace on a regular basis say every 6,000 miles?
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They become worn to a ragged mess. Its obviois to tell. If they appear fairly fresh , they are. Leave them. I'd they are misshapen and torn, replace them.
 
nopdog said:
Is there any indication from the bike that the Cush drive rubbers need replacing? Or are they something you replace on a regular basis say every 6,000 miles?
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If you mean " Can you tell if the cush drive rubbers are worn without disassembly ?" Usually NO , but if they are worn to the point that you can actually move the sprocket by hand (fore and aft) then they are really worn out ! Also look for rubber strands coming out where the drive pegs meet the cush rubbers. IF you check every 5000 miles or every tire change you should be ok. I also think that the very latest cush drive rubber from TALON TCDR-1 should go more than 5,000 miles of normal riding . I say this not because I've tested these . But because I have lots of experience with the previous versions. If you have not gotten a set of the TCDR-1 get them on order asap. They are the best yet I have seen ! The hardness of this material should have been used from the beginning . I do not know the hardness number of the newest from TALON , but they are much much better. This I am sure of !
 
Tiedy said:
Hi,
Just thought I’d add my recent experience to the Cush Drive thread. Last week while I had the wheels off for new tyres I checked the Cush drives and sure enough they were well worn so I started tracking down new ones. Got onto the local Talon rep here in Aus, as per earlier reports here, John Titman Racing in Brisbane. They had the new type in stock so I ordered a set through a local bike shop. They turned up a couple of days later and I duly began to install them. Then it got a bit tricky. The drive rubber would fit in the hub fine and it would fit on the drive bolts fine but it won’t fit both. This must be due to the extra hardness of the newer type and not being able to compress it enough once the rubber is in the hub. I took them to a local polyurethane manufacturer and measured the hardness at 95 on the Shore A scale, the old ones measured about 80. A bit of collaboration with an engineer type mate and we decided the best way to go was to machine the heads of the drive bolts rather than try and machine the actual drive rubbers. These we turned down to 19.6mm which gave me a nice push fit, this meant removing approximately .9mm off the diameter of the head. This worked a treat, there’s plenty of body to the bolt head, and the rear is back together and feels great. Next step is to try and turn up some polyurethane rod for future changes, a 300mm long, 32mm diameter rod in Shore A 90 polyurethane costs about $25 AUD so would be much more economical as well, the ones from JTR were $18 AUD each.
Also just to add, the rubbers I changed were the second lot and were fitted at 5,750 kl at the first annual service, the bike now has 18,000 kl, so not too bad.
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Great information , Thank you !
 
Guys , You can always just Dremel Tool the cush rubber ID out just a little bit , you want a tight fit !
 
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