N15CS build sequence

[tribonnie]

I am about to start assemble of an N15CS that I bought as a “box of bits”
Is it possible to put the barrels and heads on with the engine in the frame ?
Is there illustrate parts book for the frame, plates, studs etc, most of the ones I can find are featherbed only
Thanks Richard

 

[gpzkat]

Been there, done that, but If it's all in bits why not just build the engine and put it in? Anyway yes, there's plenty of room to do that in situ.

There aren't any diagrams of the frame, plates, studs, etc, well at least nothing Norton but perhaps there are some frame diagrams for Matchless somewhere. I never found any though. I resorted to scouring the Internet for pictures of frames in various states and angles of photograpy, and it all became clear after I had seen quite a few. As for fasteners, I put a spreadsheet together for all I had (after measuring) and what I was missing. I can probably help with many questions. On this forum mdt-son is quite the authority and is likely to chime in, he's a super helpful and knowledgeable guy.

I used a few different sources - Andover Norton N15/P11 area is great for part lookup and diagrams. But nothing frame-wise. Note that their part numbers use dot vs dash. Walridge is good for looking up parts, uses dash as the parts lists do. Tricky to find that page but I can find/post it if you want. Do you have the 66-68 parts list? I OCR'ed it online (PDF24) and used it a lot. There's also a 'stainless fasteners' page, maybe long gone, I downloaded and OCR'ed it fearing it would disappear. It references the thread pitch, length, diameter, thickness, etc. for all the bolt/nut/washer sizes and is useful. I took measurements and inventory of what I had and used that fasteners page to check what I had, plus the Andover site to find what I needed. I have all this stuff and can provide if you think it will help.

It's nice to see them restored and not parted out, but it's not like restoring a Honda ha!

Mine was this pile - before / after shots below (with son on board recently). As you can see it's not stock, just a good rider with a very strong front brake, which is critical to me.

 

[Hortons Norton]

Been there, done that, but If it's all in bits why not just build the engine and put it in? Anyway yes, there's plenty of room to do that in situ.

There aren't any diagrams of the frame, plates, studs, etc, well at least nothing Norton but perhaps there are some frame diagrams for Matchless somewhere. I never found any though. I resorted to scouring the Internet for pictures of frames in various states and angles of photograpy, and it all became clear after I had seen quite a few. As for fasteners, I put a spreadsheet together for all I had (after measuring) and what I was missing. I can probably help with many questions. On this forum mdt-son is quite the authority and is likely to chime in, he's a super helpful and knowledgeable guy.

I used a few different sources - Andover Norton N15/P11 area is great for part lookup and diagrams. But nothing frame-wise. Note that their part numbers use dot vs dash. Walridge is good for looking up parts, uses dash as the parts lists do. Tricky to find that page but I can find/post it if you want. Do you have the 66-68 parts list? I OCR'ed it online (PDF24) and used it a lot. There's also a 'stainless fasteners' page, maybe long gone, I downloaded and OCR'ed it fearing it would disappear. It references the thread pitch, length, diameter, thickness, etc. for all the bolt/nut/washer sizes and is useful. I took measurements and inventory of what I had and used that fasteners page to check what I had, plus the Andover site to find what I needed. I have all this stuff and can provide if you think it will help.

It's nice to see them restored and not parted out, but it's not like restoring a Honda ha!

Mine was this pile - before / after shots below (with son on board recently). As you can see it's not stock, just a good rider with a very strong front brake, which is critical to me.

Hey Tom in the picture of the parts on the floor it looks like the tach and spedo are in a Royal Enfield mount?? I only know this because I have one just like it on my next project, An Indian Woodsman 500 Royal Enfield. Bought it at the Baxter auction last summer.

 

[gpzkat]

Hey Tom in the picture of the parts on the floor it looks like the tach and spedo are in a Royal Enfield mount?? I only know this because I have one just like it on my next project, An Indian Woodsman 500 Royal Enfield. Bought it at the Baxter auction last summer.

The housing is. but gauges are from the Norton. It came with that plus the yoke to the right. I sold them on eBay to someone in India. I saw some '63 Interceptor photos with it. Pretty neat piece.

 

[mdt-son]

I am about to start assemble of an N15CS that I bought as a “box of bits”
Is it possible to put the barrels and heads on with the engine in the frame ?
Is there illustrate parts book for the frame, plates, studs etc, most of the ones I can find are featherbed only
Thanks Richard

The assembly is not that difficult, and the bonus is, when you are done, you are at the forefront of Hybric Atlas Machinery!
Lots of help available here, at the eGroup, and at the AMOC site.

One suggestion: Do not dismantle all at once - do it piece by piece. If it's all a box of bits now, try to assemble it before starting on a restauration. That way, each task becomes manageable,
it's less likely you will loose parts, and you will keep up your motivation.

- Knut

 

[ilikevelos]

I have learned from my past difficulties and from now on will assemble a bike before final paint and plating. Better to fettle parts that have not been plated or painted yet.

 

[Hortons Norton]

I am about to start assemble of an N15CS that I bought as a “box of bits”
Is it possible to put the barrels and heads on with the engine in the frame ?
Is there illustrate parts book for the frame, plates, studs etc, most of the ones I can find are featherbed only
Thanks Richard

You will get very good help and advice here, if you find you may need small parts hit me up and I'll look and see if I have them. I have done both a G15 and an Atlas recently and may have something you may need. Just the cost of shipping. I have lots of nuts and bolts.

 

[tribonnie]

Thanks for all replies.
Old age and bad back brings me to just build the bottom end and lift this into the bike. This has added advantages, using the frame as an engine jig, easier to find TDC, look at cam timing and set the ignition. We all have our own little ways. Thanks again Richard

 

[tribonnie]

Been there, done that, but If it's all in bits why not just build the engine and put it in? Anyway yes, there's plenty of room to do that in situ.

There aren't any diagrams of the frame, plates, studs, etc, well at least nothing Norton but perhaps there are some frame diagrams for Matchless somewhere. I never found any though. I resorted to scouring the Internet for pictures of frames in various states and angles of photograpy, and it all became clear after I had seen quite a few. As for fasteners, I put a spreadsheet together for all I had (after measuring) and what I was missing. I can probably help with many questions. On this forum mdt-son is quite the authority and is likely to chime in, he's a super helpful and knowledgeable guy.

I used a few different sources - Andover Norton N15/P11 area is great for part lookup and diagrams. But nothing frame-wise. Note that their part numbers use dot vs dash. Walridge is good for looking up parts, uses dash as the parts lists do. Tricky to find that page but I can find/post it if you want. Do you have the 66-68 parts list? I OCR'ed it online (PDF24) and used it a lot. There's also a 'stainless fasteners' page, maybe long gone, I downloaded and OCR'ed it fearing it would disappear. It references the thread pitch, length, diameter, thickness, etc. for all the bolt/nut/washer sizes and is useful. I took measurements and inventory of what I had and used that fasteners page to check what I had, plus the Andover site to find what I needed. I have all this stuff and can provide if you think it will help.

It's nice to see them restored and not parted out, but it's not like restoring a Honda ha!

Mine was this pile - before / after shots below (with son on board recently). As you can see it's not stock, just a good rider with a very strong front brake, which is critical to me.

Have found a few pictures and most of it seems straight forward although had to scratch my head a bit with the swinging arm, tube in a bearing in a sleeve in a bored lug in the frame, a bit odd.
I like the idea of a disc, did you upgrade from a tls brake ? Which I think it may struggle.
Richard

 

[gpzkat]

Have found a few pictures and most of it seems straight forward although had to scratch my head a bit with the swinging arm, tube in a bearing in a sleeve in a bored lug in the frame, a bit odd.
I like the idea of a disc, did you upgrade from a tls brake ? Which I think it may struggle.
Richard

Some stuff was odd & tricky when I was missing parts, like the lower front rear fender mount and center stand - which I gave up on for a couple of reasons.

The original 66 or 67 front brake is a full-width SLS, not a TLS. I got some 73 Commando fork lowers and the caliper from a friend, plus the hub and rim. I decided to go with a new rotor after finding the price for properly correcting mine was more - such is the case in Southern CA for labor costs. There was a need to file down the caliper a bit due to the rivets on the new disc fouling it, where the picture arrow is. I used a Yamaha Riva scooter MC which is 12mm and gives a good feel but is still a bit wooden. I went that route due to cost and fitment. $15 on eBay and very compact with a brake light circuit.

The main thing is that the bike stops extremely well. The weak link for braking is the Dunlop K70s which look cool but perform badly. I can lock the front up at any speed. The disc is the single best mod I made, ahead of the Wassell Mini MKII ignition (magneto replacement).

I read lots of heartache about lacing that front hub due to the spoke angles, but it didn't seem that bad to me and is all good.

You can press together the bushings with some all thread and washers. Same method I've used on many bikes. Oh if you were 'state-side' I'd offer up some tools (holder for the timing side shaft/gears, others that you may need for full rebuild). I made my own engine stand from plywood, couldn't justify buying something.

I just went for a great 1hr ride today. A bit windy here in Southern CA but I didn't see any smoke.

 

[tribonnie]

Some stuff was odd & tricky when I was missing parts, like the lower front rear fender mount and center stand - which I gave up on for a couple of reasons.

The original 66 or 67 front brake is a full-width SLS, not a TLS. I got some 73 Commando fork lowers and the caliper from a friend, plus the hub and rim. I decided to go with a new rotor after finding the price for properly correcting mine was more - such is the case in Southern CA for labor costs. There was a need to file down the caliper a bit due to the rivets on the new disc fouling it, where the picture arrow is. I used a Yamaha Riva scooter MC which is 12mm and gives a good feel but is still a bit wooden. I went that route due to cost and fitment. $15 on eBay and very compact with a brake light circuit.

The main thing is that the bike stops extremely well. The weak link for braking is the Dunlop K70s which look cool but perform badly. I can lock the front up at any speed. The disc is the single best mod I made, ahead of the Wassell Mini MKII ignition (magneto replacement).

I read lots of heartache about lacing that front hub due to the spoke angles, but it didn't seem that bad to me and is all good.

You can press together the bushings with some all thread and washers. Same method I've used on many bikes. Oh if you were 'state-side' I'd offer up some tools (holder for the timing side shaft/gears, others that you may need for full rebuild). I made my own engine stand from plywood, couldn't justify buying something.

I just went for a great 1hr ride today. A bit windy here in Southern CA but I didn't see any smoke.

Thanks for reply, long way off riding it some time to look around for disc brake parts. Richard