Gearbox clutch operating body and lockring

[kn0ck4times]

Upon inspection today I realized that there is a lot of play in the clutch operating body and that the lockring is very loose. The manual states that the lockring is tightened till the notches on the lockring line up with pre installed bosses on the inner cover. Being that I didn’t loosen the ring there are no preinstalled bosses to tighten back to. Not sure how tight the operating body or lockring should be or how to proceed? Sure they shouldn’t be wobbling around in there though. Havnt had any issues out of the gearbox. Bikes a ‘74. Thanks for any advice.

 

[L.A.B.]

Not sure how tight the operating body or lockring should be or how to proceed?

The lockring should be fully tightened with the operating lever slot (therefore the operating lever) aligned with the clutch cable entry.

 

[L.A.B.]

The manual states that the lockring is tightened till the notches on the lockring line up with pre installed bosses on the inner cover. Being that I didn’t loosen the ring there are no preinstalled bosses to tighten back to.

I think perhaps you might have misunderstood the manual instructions. The instructions refer to "...the marks previously applied to the boss...". If there are no marks then you can't do that and it's only necessary to fully tighten the lockring with the lever body slot aligned with the cable entry. This can involve some trial and error as the lockring tends to pull the body around with it so may need loosening and repositioning of the body until it lines up with the lockring fully tightened.

There is a tool to hold the body slot position...

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

...And one to tighten the lockring but neither tool is absolutely necessary.

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

 

[kn0ck4times]

Is it worth buying the correct tool, or are there any creative ideas to spinning the locking sleeve tight. Guessing all clutch adjustments should be remade from scratch afterward?

 

[L.A.B.]

Is it worth buying the correct tool, or are there any creative ideas to spinning the locking sleeve tight.

Hammer and punch.

 

[seattle##gs]

the AN lockring tool is far superior to the hammer and punch method. If you only do this once in a blue moon then the punch will suffice but you will maul up the lockring doing it.

 

[baz]

I've seen the results from a hammer and punch I'd never do that!
It's worth investing in the proper tool or making one
Just my tuppence worth

 

[Tornado]

I made a tool to fit the notches on the lock ring out of a suitable short bit of steel tube/pipe. A bit of dremel cutoff disk work made it all fit. Drilled a hole through the pipe to take a screw driver through as a torque applier.

 

[Tornado]

the AN lockring tool is far superior to the hammer and punch method. If you only do this once in a blue moon then the punch will suffice but you will maul up the lockring doing it.

Mine was already chewed up by a DPO, got a fresh one for around $25 I think.

 

[ashman]

I have always used the hammer and punch, no need to bash the crap out of it just light taps does the job and the locking ring still good after a few opening in the last 40 years and the clutch cable and arm must be lined up with the hole never had any problem with lining up while locking in position.

Ashley

 

[Torontonian]

I've seen so many mangled ones using punches .
The proper lock ring tool from Andover is a big yes .

 

[ashman]

I've seen so many mangled ones using punches .
The proper lock ring tool from Andover is a big yes .

Most use a large screw driver to bash the locking ring on if you use the right punch and light hammer don't cause no damage as long as you not heavy handed, I use what I have and have a good punch set as well a good set up of tools for all my bikes, spending money on special tools that you only use once, and you be surprised in what you can do with the tools you have without bodging up the parts.

Ashley

 

[Larry S]

Most use a large screw driver to bash the locking ring on if you use the right punch and light hammer don't cause no damage as long as you not heavy handed, I use what I have and have a good punch set as well a good set up of tools for all my bikes, spending money on special tools that you only use once, and you be surprised in what you can do with the tools you have without bodging up the parts.

Ashley

Same

 

[baz]

Most use a large screw driver to bash the locking ring on if you use the right punch and light hammer don't cause no damage as long as you not heavy handed, I use what I have and have a good punch set as well a good set up of tools for all my bikes, spending money on special tools that you only use once, and you be surprised in what you can do with the tools you have without bodging up the parts.

Ashley

Yep I guess many use a screwdriver and hammer instead of a soft drift
But it's really not a lot of work to make the tool

 

[EstuaryBoy]

As LAB mentioned, the frustration for me was lining everything up spot on then that last knock putting it all out of kilter again :-(
Plus I've had the joy of following someone who mangled the slots 'til they were nigh on impossible to use.
For me a 'proper' tool was a no brainer...
Hammers and motorbikes????

 

[ashman]

As LAB mentioned, the frustration for me was lining everything up spot on then that last knock putting it all out of kilter again :-(
Plus I've had the joy of following someone who mangled the slots 'til they were nigh on impossible to use.
For me a 'proper' tool was a no brainer...
Hammers and motorbikes????

Working with tools all my life and 20 years as a T/A to maintenance fitters at a Tec College repairing machine shop equipment, lathes, milling machines and anything else that broke from miss use and I can tell you hammers and punches play a big part and hammers and motorcycle, yes, have you never used a hammer on your bike, soft face hammer and engineering hammers do have their role in working on motorcycles and knowing how to use them for the right job and using a hammer and punch to knock out wheel bearings, tapping engine mount bolts in or out just to name a few things that hammers and punch are used, rubber hammer for tyre fitting, but then some people just bash away without thinking, that's when thing go wrong, so hammers and punches are used in motorcycle workshops.

 

[EstuaryBoy]

Yes, I concur.... In experienced hands a well placed and weighted hammer blow is invaluable.

But there does seem to be an increasing number of 'new' owners coming to the marque who don't even appear to have used or own a spanner, and it's for these (and the people clearing up after them) that I think the 'Glasgow Screwdriver' should be put on the top shelf out of harm's way if alternatives are available...
A nice Norton Commando is a terrible place to find out the hard way :-(

 

[daveforty]

I fail to understand why anyone would have an expensive motorcycle and baulk at spending a few £ on a service tool to do a job properly. The cost of the tool will be less than the cost of repairing a bodge.

I have the clutch mechanism lock ring tool. I havent used it in years - haven't needed to. But I do know the lock ring in my bike's gearbox isn't butchered.

 

[ashman]

I fail to understand why anyone would have an expensive motorcycle and baulk at spending a few £ on a service tool to do a job properly. The cost of the tool will be less than the cost of repairing a bodge.

I have the clutch mechanism lock ring tool. I havent used it in years - haven't needed to. But I do know the lock ring in my bike's gearbox isn't butchered.

I have rebuilt 10 Norton gearboxes and been inside my own a few times in the 47 years of ownership and haven't butchered any locking rings yet, I still have the original one inside my GB from using the hammer and punch way, I could easily make a tool but my way works good.
As it is some people are born butchers when working on their bike (and should never touch a motorcycle), myself take pride in my workmanship and know how to use tools for what they are made for, to me things come naturally with working with tools in my hands, I have a full set of WW ring/open end spanners and sockets for my Norton special pullers (some I have made and some I have picked up over the years) etc that I have built up for my workshop over 47 years of owning my Norton and working on other people Nortons in that time, I use what I have and a lot of times no need for special tools to do the job.
As it is everyone has their ways of doing things, I do things my way and have never had a problem yet in doing things my way using the tools I have, if I have a problem I just get straight into it and fix it, works for me and for a lot of others.

Ashley

 

[KiwiShane]

Do you use a steel drift on a steel component or do you use a brass or aluminum drift punch on steel ...that is the question ...