Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

valve guide installation jig/press
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton


amal carb straightening jig
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton


A drill guide to drill pilot hole in a sheared off mudguard mount on a fork leg. One side is drilled 1/4" all the way through to locate on a good stud/part stud and the other side is drilled 1/4" part the way through to locate on the sheared stud and 3.5mm all the way through to guide and centralise a 3.5mm drill to drill into the snapped stud.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton


Mounted thus.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton


Drilled.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton


And the resulting hole, 100 times better than just by hand. You need to file the end of the snapped stud square then centre punch the middle (or use a 3.5mm transfer punch to get the punch mark central) and drill the hole for your extractor.

Dave
 
Dellis said:
View attachment 95108

A drill guide to drill pilot hole in a sheared off mudguard mount on a fork leg. One side is drilled 1/4" all the way through to locate on a good stud/part stud and the other side is drilled 1/4" part the way through to locate on the sheared stud and 3.5mm all the way through to guide and centralise a 3.5mm drill to drill into the snapped stud.

View attachment 95109

Mounted thus.

View attachment 95110

Drilled.

View attachment 95111

And the resulting hole, 100 times better than just by hand. You need to file the end of the snapped stud square then centre punch the middle (or use a 3.5mm transfer punch to get the punch mark central) and drill the hole for your extractor.

Dave
Click to expand...
Excellent! I bet you could sell a few. The same basic idea could be used for making a drilling guide to do thread repairs for the studs in the head.
 
However, the studs were stuck fast and I didn’t want the aggro of getting a broken stud extractor out so I took the forks out, milled the offending studs out drilled and re-tapped the holes. A word of caution; there isn’t a lot of meat between the hole and the inside if the fork leg so if you go with this option proceed with caution, I drilled a 6.8mm hole 10mm deep and that was as deep as I’d go without risking breaking through to the inside. I then tapped M8 (yes I know) and refitted the mudguard with mushroom heads.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
So now I’ve dispensed with studs the guide is up for grabs FOC to the first person to message me including free worldwide postage. All that I ask is that you have a need for the guide i.e. you have a sheared stud and you give a couple of quid to charity.

Cheers
Dave
 
I will suggest heating the area before engaging the extractor. A little penetrating oil too.
 
seattle##gs said:
I will suggest heating the area before engaging the extractor. A little penetrating oil too.
Click to expand...
I tried both, the penetrating oil had been on for 24 hours and I heat cycled the leg a couple of times hoping that the different expansion rates would break the grip but to no avail. I got a really good grip with the extractor and wound it in as tight as I dared but didn’t want to snap it as that is a whole new world of pain.

Dave
 
I mean heating it to about 150 degrees or higher just before turning the extractor. It usually does the trick but maybe yours was too frozen. I usually heat it then flood it with penetrating oil and carefully try to work the broken stud a little forward and a little backward hoping that will allow the oil to penetrate. You're right...a broken extractor is much pain and aggravation.
 
seattle##gs said:
I mean heating it to about 150 degrees or higher just before turning the extractor. It usually does the trick but maybe yours was too frozen. I usually heat it then flood it with penetrating oil and carefully try to work the broken stud a little forward and a little backward hoping that will allow the oil to penetrate. You're right...a broken extractor is much pain and aggravation.
Click to expand...
I know exactly what you’re saying, I did get it good and hot with a wet rag round the top of the leg to stop the seal and gaiter melting but it was frozen solid.

Dave
 
Not perfected yet but basically finished. Buddy coming next week to properly wire it


Tools You Have Made to Maintain your NortonTools You Have Made to Maintain your NortonTools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 

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I'm sure you older and more experienced bike mechanic's know this trick but I just found it today. While re jetting a pair of Amals' on my Norton. The slide needle just would not line up with the hole in carb, the bowel was already off so I removed the main jet holder. Then took a cocktail straw and ran up thru the carb body, started the needle jet into straw then slide everything into place. Once the slide was bottomed out I removed the straw and installed main jet holder.. Much easier then removing the air cleaner! KISS theory works!
 
mean gene said:
I'm sure you older and more experienced bike mechanic's know this trick but I just found it today. While re jetting a pair of Amals' on my Norton. The slide needle just would not line up with the hole in carb, the bowel was already off so I removed the main jet holder. Then took a cocktail straw and ran up thru the carb body, started the needle jet into straw then slide everything into place. Once the slide was bottomed out I removed the straw and installed main jet holder.. Much easier then removing the air cleaner! KISS theory works!
Click to expand...
Did you finish your drink first?
 
  • Haha
Reactions: baz
Dellis said:
However, the studs were stuck fast and I didn’t want the aggro of getting a broken stud extractor out so I took the forks out, milled the offending studs out drilled and re-tapped the holes. A word of caution; there isn’t a lot of meat between the hole and the inside if the fork leg so if you go with this option proceed with caution, I drilled a 6.8mm hole 10mm deep and that was as deep as I’d go without risking breaking through to the inside. I then tapped M8 (yes I know) and refitted the mudguard with mushroom heads.

View attachment 95112
Click to expand...
Dave,
Sorry I'm late to this thread. Nice repair job. Generally, in that situation, I drill out the broken stud and/or bolt using the correct drill bit so I can install a HeliCoil insert. That way, you keep the fastener at the original size. In this case 1/4" X 20 TPI, which calls for a 1/4" drill bit. This is a common problem when removing fasteners screwed into aluminum engine and transmission parts in the automotive world. Where depth is limited, I've been known to turn the HeliCoil tap [taper tap] into either a plug tap or a bottoming tap.
 
PETCOCK TOOL...shipping to Australia & New Zealand.
The postage prices have come down to a much more reasonable $20. I have 4 left.
 
I will offer a technique rather than a tool.
Quick way to find center of a round part such as a tube to prevent the drill bit walking. If you have a drill press or mill.
Clamp the tube in the drill press vise. Get as close as possible to center by sight. Then take a thin piece of stock ( I use a loose feeler gauge .030)
under the drill and see if it lays flat or tips one way or the other. Move your vise accordingly. It is possible to be very accurate using this method. The final check is to remove the feeler gauge and see if the drill deflects in any direction. Practice on a scrap piece of tube to get the feel for it.
 
I will offer another technique:
If you need a crimp tool but do not have the proper sized die, do this:

Drill a hole in a piece of scrap flat stock, near the edge. Size the hole barely large enough to pass over the parts to be crimped. Using a hacksaw, cut a slot from the edge of the flat stock, thru the hole center. Place the parts in the hole, and the flat stock in a vise. Squeeze the flat stock at the hacksaw cut.

A variation of this technique:

Take two pieces of flat stock and clamp together. Drill a hole centered in the gap between the two flat plates. Size the hole as above. Place parts between the flat plates and squeeze in a vise.

Slick
 
Here's a tool I thought about a longtime and finally made. Works much better than expected. The 6 bolts are 5/16" and the aluminum plate is replicated on the other side of the 2x4. Any guesses what it's for?

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
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