Words of wisdom, checking head torque on Mark III engine

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Tornado said:
A similar topic over on General MC forum and luggage scale accuracy came up. I did a little research and posted this:

Got me curious to research how good are typical luggage/fish digital scales. Came across this blurb on a low cost scale which tested out as about 0.1-0.5% accuracy.

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-f...36-luggage-scale-digital-scale-1-year-report/

Here's the scale tested...less than a ten'r!

www.ebay.com

Portable Electronic Hanging Fishing Digital Pocket Weight Hook Scale 40kg/10g | eBay​

www.ebay.com
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Looks just like the one in the test.
Since they are expensive, I'm going to order two...


Edit. on further revue, I'll be ordering 0, as that's how many they have....
 
Tornado said:
What torque setting was it spec'd for?
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The reel was set at about 50 Lbs. torque / drag. 100 Lb. test , skipping a giant plastic squid (white ) , single big hook , in and out of the Pacific Mexico waves. That reel screamed , which is the goal on a hook-up. 10 minutes out of Port.
 
marshg246 said:
Double Yikes! It is not only true but a well-known fact and there are many tools available to use in that fashion.
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Any high school trigonometry student can prove it false.

Whilst you may argue that the *difference* is insignificant, that does not make the absolute claim true.
 
pressureangle said:
Any high school trigonometry student can prove it false.

Whilst you may argue that the *difference* is insignificant, that does not make the absolute claim true.
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The nut/bolt doesn't change and the distance to the turning moment does not change. Try as you might, you won't find any Trig that supports your claim! I would say that zero difference is certainly insignificant! It is however true that it must be 90 degrees - any deviation has an effect. Hopefully, you're no trying to being a right triangle into it - it has nothing to do with the hypotenuse of a right triangle.
 
pressureangle said:
Any high school trigonometry student can prove it false.

Whilst you may argue that the *difference* is insignificant, that does not make the absolute claim true.
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Hi,
Half way down this page has a nice explanation:
agradetools.com

Extensions and Torque Wrenches Myth Busted - AGradeTools.com

Does using extensions and adapters change torque values with torque wrenches? Myth's busted and tested here. You're probably wrong, like I was!
agradetools.com agradetools.com
At 90 degrees the effective length of the torque wrench is not increased.
 
So - leaving hypotheticals and trigonometry aside for a moment, I have located a Whitworth combo wrench. The closed end goes on the upside down bolt. The open end goes on the torque wrench. If I set the Whitworth wrench at 90 degrees, using a protractor, and the torque wrench at 28 pounds to be on the safe side, would that work?
 
nortonmargie said:
So - leaving hypotheticals and trigonometry aside for a moment, I have located a Whitworth combo wrench. The closed end goes on the upside down bolt. The open end goes on the torque wrench. If I set the Whitworth wrench at 90 degrees, using a protractor, and the torque wrench at 28 pounds to be on the safe side, would that work?
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As long as the angle of torque wrench handle kept at perpendicular to the pivot/center of the bolt/nut, then yes. Test your rig out on the bench with nuts/bolts/vise. Calibrate your torque wrench for good practise (I posted a video earlier here on how to do this satisfactorily).
Not worth risking pulling the threads out on these heads unless you like fitting Helicoils etc.
 
Tornado said:
I think you will find the two lower front "sleeve' nuts impossible to fit a socket wrench directly. Likely true for the rear underside nut as well. Those are the three at risk of pulling stud out of the soft alloy head when trying to use a hand spanner/wrench.
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I agree n the original sleeve nuts - I always change to the later type that takes a 7/16" wrench - no issues getting them on. https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16029/cylinder-head-sleeve-nut-nm24260-nmt2034-

AN has a special tool for the rear underneath nut - makes a nearly impossible job only a PITA. https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/18702/combination-spanner-1-4-whitworth-obstruction-
 
marshg246 said:
I agree n the original sleeve nuts - I always change to the later type that takes a 7/16" wrench - no issues getting them on. https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16029/cylinder-head-sleeve-nut-nm24260-nmt2034-

AN has a special tool for the rear underneath nut - makes a nearly impossible job only a PITA. https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/18702/combination-spanner-1-4-whitworth-obstruction-
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FWIW the sleeve nuts were missing entirely on my bike but the head gasket didn't leak. I bought the 7/16 version too and torqued them up with this setup, 3/8 hex socket in 3/8 end of offset combo wrench.
(as posted earlier on extensions, 90 degree no correction needed, etc. )
I loosened the further out rear nuts first then torqued sleeve nuts then retorqued rear nuts. All went well, no leaks or pulled threads...

Words of wisdom, checking head torque on Mark III engine
 
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