Whitworth Fasteners?

baz said:

Yes there is it screws into two 5/16 holes on the engine sprocket
Easy to make if you have facilities you can also use a 3 legged puller if you remove the primary chain I seem to remember?

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SteveA said:

5/16" UNF on the triplex sprocket.

Not appropriate to the OP, but I have a Bob Newby belt pulley, which replaced a Norman White belt pulley....Bob uses M8, Norman uses 5/16" UNF....always check the thread on non-standard parts.

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baz said:

If you haven't pulled a commando primary before there's a couple of things to watch on re assembly
Make sure the inner chain case is shimmed on the centre stud
Make sure you replace the tab washers on the inner chaincase or loctite or both
Always replace the mainshaft clutch circlip and check sprocket alignment
Throw away the clutch tab washer and use loctite instead
Also the workshop manual torque setting for the clutch is far too high
But I can't remember the setting now recommended
Also the the alternator stator absolutely must have the 8 thou air gap
Don't over fill with oil (ATF) when refill it
As has been mentioned before it's really not hard to change the layshaft bearing in the bike
Unless you want to strip the whole lot out to check the whole lot out (not a bad idea IMO) then maybe just change the bearing and inspect for other damage

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baz said:

Something I was told years ago was when heating something round to release it you should only one spot because it expands and breaks it grip better than heating the whole thing with the resultant heatsoak into the shaft you are trying to remove it from?

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SteveA said:

5/16" UNF on the triplex sprocket.

Not appropriate to the OP, but I have a Bob Newby belt pulley, which replaced a Norman White belt pulley....Bob uses M8, Norman uses 5/16" UNF....always check the thread on non-standard parts.

Click to expand...