Warpedscout 74 850 Commando Rebuild

warpedscout · Sep 5, 2016

Been a long while since I have got back on rebuilding my 74 Norton. Friend still has my transmission case and will be getting it finished up in the next month or so. Just got my parts back from the powdercoaters a few days ago. Used the template to blank it off from Old Britts, hoping I hit all the correct spots on it!! Have cleaned and painted blanking areas and waxed. WIll probably do another wax to make sure have a good one on it. Had frame coated Semi Gloss black, the guys who did it gave me a good deal. Was $150 to blast and PC, I went back to blank it to save the money and a lot of headaches!! Hope to make at least monthly progress on this but having to deal with contractor putting in pool and may have to resort to legal actions. Fiancee is wanting me to rain fire and brimstone on him but don't want to end up spending more money that could be reserved for Norton!! LOL.

Removing blanking

Blanking on frame

Painted and waxed

My attempt at removing paint with citrus strip. Needless to say it did'nt work out too good! LOL

lcrken · Sep 5, 2016

I've been using Citrus Strip to remove paint from some wheels, and it seems to really need to sit for at least 30 minutes to do it's work. It also requires multiple applications. Not nearly as effective as the old methylene chloride based strippers.

Ken

warpedscout · Sep 5, 2016

I let it sit for a while, over 30 minutes and would barely strip off the frame and some parts. Was able to strip the kick stand and battery box but was about all. Was easier to let these guys blast and PC, took me forever to find someone in my area to do this for me. EPA has shut a lot of these guys down or run them out of business. Any further blasting I can handle in my friends small blasting cabinet when we get to the transmission case, engine lower and any other pieces I decide that need blasting.

grandpaul · Sep 5, 2016

What's your plan for the engine? Any warm-up mods?

warpedscout · Sep 5, 2016

Not sure on engine yet. Want a fresh rebuild and see what I'm working with. Will be a few mods like crankcase breather and oil weyr mod. Man objective is to refresh bike and do the modifications to make it more daily driver. Not a big speed demon! Lol

APRRSV · Sep 6, 2016

Hi Warpedscout,
You mentioned blanking templates from Old Britts. Can you elaborate? I've been to the website and can't find anything.

Thanks,
Ed

warpedscout · Sep 6, 2016

Hey Ed,

It is found in the technical articles on the Old Britts site:

http://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html

I went in and printed each article as a PDF on my computer so I will always have them.

APRRSV · Sep 6, 2016

Thanks much for the quick reply.

warpedscout · Sep 15, 2016

Havent had much time lately. Had to fire pool installer and looking for new one. I pulled everything out a few days ago so I could put hands on everything and try to get it in a more organized mess. Been pulling out all the bolts and pieces that I haven't cleaned yet to feel like I'm making a little progress.

Roll call:

Bits and pieces

Been keeping the head and barrel sprayed down to unstick some nuts and such. What is the trick to get the head to let loose?
It is a RH10.

Working toward getting over to my friends to weld crack in trans case so I can blast and paint it. Rebuild kit is ready to go.

gortnipper · Sep 15, 2016

There are three nuts that secure the head from the underneath - one on each barrel front (7, 8), and one between the barrels at the rear (2). You will need to grind down the sides of a box end wrench to get it in there on the rear one.

warpedscout · Sep 15, 2016

Got the bolts and nuts off, think it is just stuck. Have some Aero Kroil sprayed in where the head mates.

gortnipper · Sep 15, 2016

OK, cool. Apply heat?

warpedscout · Sep 15, 2016

I have some but not paid it a whole lot of attention. Mainly fishing for do's and dont's. Scared of breaking a fin! Lol

Danno · Sep 15, 2016

Whack it with a large rubber mallet or use a large ball-peen hammer and a wood block to spread the load over all the fins so you don't break any. Best spot is right at an exhaust port. This should break loose any sealer that was used on the head gasket. If the crank is rotated so one of the exhaust valves is open, the valve spring pressure will help push the head up off the cylinder.

L.A.B. · Sep 16, 2016

warpedscout · Sep 16, 2016

Got back and checked the head, missed pulling this bolt out.

First look at the combustion chambers:

Cylinders look ok:

Kinda jived that the head came off easily! Good thing I didn't go to banging away on the head. lol.
Don't see anything just jumping out at me right now. Was taking a break from the days fun!

warpedscout · Sep 18, 2016

Can anyone tell me what the P that is stamped on the bottom of the head means?

warpedscout · Oct 20, 2016

Not getting really anything done on bike. Been busy with backyard project but hope to be done soon. I did receive my Amals back from Lund, very nice! Hope this irons out the idle and acceleration issues I had before.

gortnipper · Oct 31, 2016

warpedscout said:
Can anyone tell me what the P that is stamped on the bottom of the head means?

Dunno what it means. My 74 has the same P on its RH10. I would guess it may be a casting mold designation?

grandpaul · Oct 31, 2016

Lund's is highly recommended if you want to stay original. They've done a few sets for me over the years (first ones were in 1999)

Warpedscout 74 850 Commando Rebuild

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