Voltage regulators

Wiring question:
I am ready to install the SH775 and have a couple of questions. I'd like to leave everything original in place, just not used.
Can I just disconnect the Zeners and the rectifier and tape their wires off. It looks like the assimilator wiring is in parallel to the zeners, if I leave the assimilator wiring as is will it be ok for the new regulator. Then the hookup is simple, just run the alternator wires to the new SH775 and it's output to the battery. I am thinking this will leave the assimilator working to power the red light on the dash as before.
Will this work?

Jaydee

jaydee75 said:

Wiring question:
I am ready to install the SH775 and have a couple of questions. I'd like to leave everything original in place, just not used.
Can I just disconnect the Zeners and the rectifier and tape their wires off. It looks like the assimilator wiring is in parallel to the zeners, if I leave the assimilator wiring as is will it be ok for the new regulator. Then the hookup is simple, just run the alternator wires to the new SH775 and it's output to the battery. I am thinking this will leave the assimilator working to power the red light on the dash as before.
Will this work?

Jaydee

Click to expand...

Just connect the AL terminal on the assimilator to any one of the alternator leads.
Pete

Deets55 said:

Just connect the AL terminal on the assimilator to any one of the alternator leads.

Click to expand...

If it is the standard 06-6393 solid state assimilator-as fitted to the majority of Mk3 models, then it will have two "AL" terminals that connect to each alternator output (AC) wire (green/yellow and white/green).

L.A.B. said:

Deets55 said:

Just connect the AL terminal on the assimilator to any one of the alternator leads.

Click to expand...

If it is the standard 06-6393 solid state assimilator-as fitted to the majority of Mk3 models, then it will have two "AL" terminals that connect to each alternator output (AC) wire (green/yellow and white/green).

Click to expand...

Yep LAB you are correct, I guess I should have said " one or both AL terminals on the assimilator depending on what type". I have an early MKIII that uses the can type, 3 terminal assimilator. That is why I installed the CoolCats unit. The can type draws a lot of current just to keep a light off. I am curious to know why the solid state Norton units uses both alternator leads, perhaps to stop the flickering light at low idle speeds?
Pete

This cheap chinese offering says its a replacement. ..any thoughts?
Enay item no. 132356887151

John

hrd998 said:

This cheap chinese offering says its a replacement. ..any thoughts?
Enay item no. 132356887151

John

Click to expand...

I’ve been using this sort of even cheaper thing, with an Alton alternator on a Triumph pre unit 650. Been a couple of thousand miles, no trouble.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272433960902

I don't have a charging circuit on my bike, but I do have a Boyer. I was thinking of using a 20 volt lithium Ion battery and regulating it to 12 volt by using the regulator which is often used on trucks for fitting 12 volt radios when they have 20 volt systems for everything else. However the step down is not done by shunt, so there would be noise which could fire the Boyer. I once used a pointless ignition system off a Chrysler car which had a large resistor encased in a ceramic block in line with the battery. But it seems very archaic to me, to do the step-down that way.

Here is a copy in PDF in case the pictures get fucked by photobucket https://www.4shared.com/office/m4jBBSd3iq/rgulateurs.html I will try as much as I can to keep it there, but it is downloadable

Jean

By the way Jean, I still think of you and your idea for the SH775. I did this back in 2015 and it is one of the best improvements I ever made to my Mk3.
Thanks,
Jaydee