Voltage regulators

Jean, I'm not electrical enough to understand everything you are saying, but I do want to say how much I appreciate your work and thorough study. I hope after it is all sorted out, we will have a much improved charging system for these old bikes. It looks like the additional charging voltage will allow proper support of a Shorai lithium battery.
I think you are getting close. Thanks again.
Jaydee

Here is another link describing the way regulators work http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/SV650/seriesRegulator.html

They show a source from Bombardier/seadoo part number 710001103 (or a variation 710-001-103) so it may be better to call your boat shop before bidding on eBay.

Jean

I have heard good things about the sachse regulators.

Jean, I know you are a fan of their EI systems, and wondered if you have looked at their regulators?

gtiller said:

I have heard good things about the sachse regulators.

Jean, I know you are a fan of their EI systems, and wondered if you have looked at their regulators?

Click to expand...

I wrote to Sachse two times but never received an answer, it "looks" like their regulator is the right type (non shunting) but without a positive answer on their part, I will stick with what I know. For me either my own home made regulator or the SH775.

Jean

Is this the correct sh775?

http://www.roadstercycle.com/

the same as

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251849821753?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

flashbackk said:

Is this the correct sh775?

http://www.roadstercycle.com/

the same as

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251849821753?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Click to expand...

Yes, make sure to get the SH775, and NOT the mosfet type. Notice how similar to each other they look, the workings of each is very very different.

Check out the price of the Bombardier unit, it may be cheaper.

Jean

Jean, it looks like the SH775 has 5 wires. For a single phase system what is the hookup? I guess two go directly to the battery, what about the other 3? Are special plug connectors needed? Thanks,
Jaydee

jaydee75 said:

Jean, it looks like the SH775 has 5 wires. For a single phase system what is the hookup? I guess two go directly to the battery, what about the other 3? Are special plug connectors needed? Thanks,
Jaydee

Click to expand...

Just like this:



YELLOW wires are from the alternator
RED wire is POSITIVE
BLACK wire is NEGATIVE

The regulator I ordered came with a connector kit, but as you can see, you could use regular fast-on connectors.

Jean

The SH775 is a Polaris part. The part number is 4012941. I found it for a good price of $65.74 plus shipping here:

http://www.polarisparts123.com/oemparts ... /regulator

Eastern Beaver has a connector kit if needed:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec_ ... ctors.html

This is where I got the info from:

Looks like the Triumph guys have trouble with their regulators and found the SH775 a suitable unit. Check out this thread:


http://www.triumphrat.net/3056170-post13.html


JD

Thanks JD, that's the best price I can find too. I just ordered one.
TheOtherJaydee

Jeandr said:

The thing with lithium batteries is that they will gladly let the voltage go higher than a lead acid battery, when they do that, they allow a Podtronic type of regulator to camp the input sooner in the cycle so the alternator spends more time with a shorted output than it does with a lead acid battery.

That's the way I see it

Jean

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Jean, your statement seems to line up well with my experience. Not knowing anything about the various components other than that they were all supposed to be "good stuff" , I fitted an Alton , a PODtronics and a Yausa battery to my Vincent. Actually I went thru the whole evolution of design with Altons, but that is a long story. I finally ended up with Paul Hamon's current version, which seems a very good design. It worked without fuss for several years and 20,000 odd miles until I added a Lithium battery to the mix. I noticed that the Brightspark voltage monitor acted differently with the Lithium battery fitted. With the lead acid battery, after initial running and chargeup, the light would show green(+13 volts in system) until the Pod would go to short circuit at which point the light would show orange (+12.5 volts) then after a minute or so it would cycle back to green for a minute or so. With the lithium battery , the cycle was much shorter, just a few seconds per light colour. I watched the light colour rapidly switching back and forth all the way to California from Vancouver BC, thinking the whole time, "this can't be good"

In Northern California smoke started pouring out of the Alton and that was the end of it. The lithium battery also failed as did the PODtronics. Everything turned to smoke and Lucas was not involved at all!
I have since had the Alton rebuilt by Paul Hamon, replaced the pod with another pod and gone firmly back to conventional but sealed or AGM batteries. No problems so far, the system works just fine and I expect it will continue to do so.

Glen

Question for those who are using the SH775.
Where are you mounting them? They are a bit larger than a Podtronic.
I can reconfigure my battery box, but it would be a bit tight and not a lot of air flow around the unit.
I am also considering somewhere between the front frame down tubes and in the air stream ala Harley. Not as good aesthetically as hidden however.
Precious little room to work with.


JD

jeffdavison said:

Question for those who are using the SH775.
Where are you mounting them? They are a bit larger than a Podtronic.
I can reconfigure my battery box, but it would be a bit tight and not a lot of air flow around the unit.
I am also considering somewhere between the front frame down tubes and in the air stream ala Harley. Not as good aesthetically as hidden however.
Precious little room to work with.


JD

Click to expand...

JD, the SH775 heats up a LOT less than the other ones since it carries current only when needed, the others (shunt type) do need good cooling since they carry much more current. Any place you can mount it with a little bit of airflow would be fine IMOHO.

Jean

Jeff, I received my Regulator today and also am looking for a place to mount it. I have a Mk3 which has a small shelf that mounts the plastic airbox and assimilator. I am getting rid of both and it looks like a good place to mount the R/R. I plan to make an aluminum plate to mount it on for a little more heat dissipation.
I'm considering orientation now, and attach a few pics of the options.
I'd rather have it out of sight, but looking for ideas on that.

I slept on it and had a better idea for the mount. I can make a vertical bracket and mount the regulator as shown. I like this better because it is out of view and easy to access the connections:

Just got mine too. $39.99 - used, for best offer - on eBay. Tests OK and works as advertised on the bench. It is marked Shindengen SH775AA. It's a big sucker all right. I really got it to play with and I'm debating whether to try and install it. To me it is a very nice idea technically but I think it solves a non-existant problem with our Nortons.

Russ

It has had me wondering whether the supposed hot running of belt drives comes down to how the shunt electronic reg/rect works, combined with the lack of oil mist to aid cooling of the primary. If so for belts at least it would seem to me to be a good idea, for those that do a reasonable number of miles anyway.
Checked out NZ price over the counter from the local Polaris shop, about 50% dearer than US prices quoted on here - nothing unusual in that.

ntst8 said:

It has had me wondering whether the supposed hot running of belt drives comes down to how the shunt electronic reg/rect works, combined with the lack of oil mist to aid cooling of the primary. If so for belts at least it would seem to me to be a good idea, for those that do a reasonable number of miles anyway.
Checked out NZ price over the counter from the local Polaris shop, about 50% dearer than US prices quoted on here - nothing unusual in that.

Click to expand...

Interesting, it could be, whatever is not being used by the bike is being dissipated in the regulator and the alternator. The heat dissipation of the stock setup is helped a lot by the oil carrying the heat from all the parts to the aluminum case, the belt drive can't do that. That being said, there is a lot more heat coming from the transmission path than from the alternator, but every source needs to be cooled somehow, big holes can help a lot more than smaller ones.

Jean

jaydee75 said:

I slept on it and had a better idea for the mount. I can make a vertical bracket and mount the regulator as shown. I like this better because it is out of view and easy to access the connections:

Click to expand...

And also in the breeze of the hot cylinders :!:

Well there aren't too many good spots for mounting but the one next to the battery in the Mk3 as in the last picture should be OK in spite of being behind the cylinders. These do run quite cool from what I've seen so far. But to get the most from your vertical mounting bracket you might want to make it beefy and large enough to cover the entire back of the SH775 and then use heat sink grease. (There is a slight gap between the mounting surface and the shiny aluminum backing plate which is not so good, but it could be reduced or eliminated with some wet sanding on a flat surface.) You are just adding more surface area to the existing heat sink which should help with the cooling.

OK now any ideas for non-Mk3? Was thinking maybe under the bottom of the battery box and move the horn.