Valve Stem Seal Replacement

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Beach

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Does anyone know to find info from Ludwig about replacing valve stem seal with the head in place? Have found a link to it but it didn't work.

Thanks, Bill
 
I like you had this problem. I think I remember eventually finding a link to it somewhere out there through persistent use of Google. Basically, if you have a hand drill, dremel, hacksaw type of workshop you need to make and gather a few things. 1. Rope (though air compressor is better). 2. Tools to take rocker arm out (I believe it has been done with those in situ but I have short fat fingers). 3. Create something to press on the valve Spring (I used an old chuck sleeve off an old knackered hand drill, applied hacksaw to same). 4. A lever to press down on the above. 5. Finally a magnet to collect the collets when they free up, through the gaps you created specifically for this purpose in the thing you created to press down on the spring through applied downward pressure from the lever, which will have you scratch your head looking for a pivot point.

It also helps to have two pairs of hands, my bro and I changed out a seal in about 30-40 minutes recently. I have done it a total of 3 times, it gets easier.
 
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The UK NOC hosts a PDF setting out Ludwig's method here, but you might have to be a member to view it …? No rope or air compressor needed, but you have to make or borrow the kit. I've done this too, this summer – pretty easy once you've got the kit.
 
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Appreciate the info and have some good ideas now. Someone on here used 2 rock shaft covers to make the spring compressor.
 
Appreciate the info and have some good ideas now. Someone on here used 2 rock shaft covers to make the spring compressor.
That rings a bell, rigging it up through the tappet adjuster hole on the rocker arm, that might be Ludwig's method. Bit to much like precision work. As ex oilfield trash from way way back I still suffer from 48" Stilson and 10lb sledge hammer syndrome, I do fight it though.
 
Can this or similar method be utilized for exhaust valve seals?
 
Cheers Batrider...I didn't know that.
What is the rationale for this difference?
 
Cheers Batrider...I didn't know that.
What is the rationale for this difference?
Thinking maybe on intake, there is a suction drawing gas in and could suck oil through guide and on exhaust stroke, it is forcing exhaust out.
 
I always thought it was because the exhaust side runs much hotter and they might not hold up to it. Also no groove on the exhaust guides for a seal. It's like this on mine anyway.
 
I think it's about heat. The exhaust valve runs hotter and needs the oil. Correct me if wrong.
 
Hi, Back in the day It was pretty easy.
1, Put the bike on the centerstand. bike in 3rd or 4 gear
2, take out the spark plugs
3 , bring the cylinder that you want access to the valve to the compression stroke but with the piston near the bottom.
4, find some soft clothesline type rope, maybe 6 feet. by about 5/15 inch to 3/8 " dia. Check out your neighbor's line!
5, stuff as much as you can into the cylinder in question.
6, slowly rotate the back wheel until the clothesline is firmly compressed against the closed valve by the piston.
7, remove the valve spring keeper & collet and remove the valve spring,
8 Fix your issue, reassemble valve train and rotate the rear wheel in the opposit direction.
9 Pull out the clothesline and put it back on your neighbors clothesline.

note, Total Seal piston rings recommend seals on the exhaust valves also.
I have had them there for several years with out any problems.
also my spell check is not sure what clothesline spelling should be, I hope this spelling is close.
Make sure you use valve seals that mate properly to your valve guide.
Bruce Mac Gregor
 
Exhaust valve seals are common and have been for quite a few years on most (all?) engines. Oil can be pulled into the cylinder/exhaust via the exhaust valve guide on the exhaust stroke due to the "suction" created by the exiting exhaust gasses. It is much less than what occurs on intake with the intake valve but enough to pull oil in.
 
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