US handlebar types and comparison

I put it on Sam.

But I plumbed it in differently. I don’t like the Hyde suggested method as it adds many feet of unnecessary hose.

I cut off the oil return stub on the engine oil manifold (the one that loops around to face backwards) so it now faces forwards.

I then conected that to the bottom of the cooler.

I then took a hose from the top of the cooler up over the engine, T’d off for the rocker feed, and continued on to the old rocker feed outlet from the frame. The restriction is still there to regulate the return flow and provide back pressure to ensure rocker feed.

I then blanked off the old return at the back of the frame spine.

So, the oil is going ‘backwards’ through the cooler. And ‘backwards’ into the frame.

Personally, I do not believe these Hyde coolers cool anywhere near as much as a ‘proper’ multi row cooler. I Therefore do not believe a thermostat is necessary.

All IMHO of course.
 
While we’re on the bar subject, as I’ve mentioned in other threads, those Beston style grips on mine are cheap Emgo versions.

They are hollow, and soft, as per the original design intent I assume. The ‘better quality‘ Japanese versions on the market are solid, and offer no comfort or vibration absorption at all.

I highly recommend the Emgo grips.
 
While we’re on the bar subject, as I’ve mentioned in other threads, those Beston style grips on mine are cheap Emgo versions.

They are hollow, and soft, as per the original design intent I assume. The ‘better quality‘ Japanese versions on the market are solid, and offer no comfort or vibration absorption at all.

I highly recommend the Emgo grips.

you might want to try Biltwell Renegade grips, expensive but worth it.
 
I agree about the bars, when I order them I order Hurricane bars as there is no mixing up, they were all fitted with the same bars.
You'd think so wouldn't you Sam?
I ordered a pair of 97-1870 (correct part number for Hurricane, T120 etc) stainless bars off Chris Knight Motorcycles last year for a T150 project. They were nothing like the correct shape, or any shape used by Triumph, ever.
Turns out this vendor is now operated by Anne Knight from France (not made clear on the eBay shop). She refused to cover my postage costs back under Sales of Goods Act (actually the Consumer Rights Act, but whatever) as "not as described", insisting they were "the correct shape". So the whole farce cost me quite a lot, though as lessons in who to do business with in future, I guess it was cheap?
 
No, vibes aren’t a problem on this bike (rubber mounted bars etc).

If I were looking at it, I reckon I’d favour lead shot kept loose. Think lead shot filled cosh !
Not sure fitted loose would work. The shot (I get mine from diving suppliers) is obviously soft lead, and will compress. Over time, I suspect the, er, oscillations of the average Triumph bar (ahem) would cause even fairly tightly packed shot to turn into a giant, annoying rattle! Maybe using RTV silicone would allow some controlled movement, but just packing it in solid with expanding foam (actually writing this, I realise I DID use RTV last time!) works really well. It's one of my favourite mods. I'm actually thinking of dispensing with the standard rubber mounts (at least as an experiment) as they always turn mushy with monotonous regularity.
Note this is on two Triumph Twins with dynamically balanced cranks, I wouldn't attempt even a trial on standard cranks!
 
How do you actually do this? Do you mix it together like concrete before stuffing it in? Or what?
Pretty much, yes. I push in something that fits the inside of the bar as far as the first bend (I found some old, crap sockets but anything to stop you having to fill the entire bar, which isn't what you want), mix up the gloop of RTV (this is better than expanding foam now I think about it some more), shove it in tight up to about 1/2 inch from the end, and I seal it off with some small corks. It's a bit messy but not horrendous. This seems to add about 1lb per end which is way more than any/most after market bar end weights which look wrong on a brit classic anyway. You can then use the superior Japanese GT grips which offer more, er, grip than the shiny Emgo ones ;):D
 
That sounds like a good explanation, thanks.

Apart from the grips, it’s that Japanese ones that are shiny, hard and slippy. The Emgo ones are dull, soft and grippy.

The only advantage to the Japanese ones is they last longer, like forever !
 
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