Getting back to the original question, I've done the swap. The easy way is to fit an 850 crankshaft, pistons, cylinders and head. The hard way is to re-balance the 750 crank for the 850 piston weight, use an 850 cylinder, and convert the 750 head to 850 bolt pattern. I'd agree with the above posters that the easiest way would be to swap in an 850 engine. I've had the 810 Dunstall kit on a 750, and I don't recommend it. The alloy he used for the cylinder is really soft, so you need to keep re-torquing the fasteners forever. It also has a really thin sleeve that has been known to break. As to overboring the stock 750 cylinder, it's risky to go to far, because if you do, the cylinder is likely to break at the outside front base fasteners, particularly with the early 750s. I never went over .020" over on my 750 race bike for that reason. Having said that, there are cases of owners boring them larger and never having a problem, but it is a known risk to do so. If you go to an 850, the easiest thing you can do to make it more like a 750 in terms of zippiness is to raise the compression ratio. A common way back in the day was to just mill the head. The factory said that removing .075" would raise the CR to 10:1. I'd recommend a bit less for a street bike unless you know you will always have suitable octane gas available. With any serious head milling, you will also have to check valve-to-piston clearance, and probably have to cut valve reliefs in the piston. As an alternative, you can just buy aftermarket high compression pistons that already have valve reliefs. If I were doing it on my bike, I'd just go with the pistons (probably 78 mm bore), and juggle head and base gasket thickness to get the CR right, probably around 9.5:1. I might go to 10:1 if I was also adding a longer duration cam.
Just my humble opinions, based on my own experience. Your choices have to depend on your particular situation.
Ken