TTI gb info please

Fast Eddie said:

When I ran the stock box I fitted a Comnoz hydraulic clutch kit and really like the feel it provided.

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That is what I use now, with adjustable cam short levers. Best for the Dupetruyn's.

Any progress with this issue?

Consensus recently seemed to be that your 23mm pivot lever was too low lift, with the Magura being 29mm and Steves posh one being 33mm.

Have you tried either of these yet ?

I rode the Norton for a few cold rides in the neighborhood and the clutch action is just fine...I will keep using the Emgo-Amal levers.
When I shift to first I can't feel any click but the shift is positive and doesn't jump out. Shifting to second is almost as easy..it requires paying attention to feel the click. 3rd and 4th are gentle but more positive. My feelings are that possibly shimming the detent plunger is the answer. I don't want to go into a brand new box but that's the breaks.

Henrynorton. You are angry with my post, please explain for us all. Please feel free to contact me if you would to see the emails I have from TTI. I understand from dobba they are now working on redesign for the MK3, as they now admit themselves they do not fit without considerable work.

Chris said:

Same first time I rode mine I wasn't in neutral but between 4th & 5th lol

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I expected my 6 speed TTI box to have Norton shift, but it had Triumph pattern. The box is too long to fiddle the linkages, so I had Bruce send me the correct drum for a swap. It has been the bane of my existence. I am still stuffing around with it

seattle##gs said:

I rode the Norton for a few cold rides in the neighborhood and the clutch action is just fine...I will keep using the Emgo-Amal levers.
When I shift to first I can't feel any click but the shift is positive and doesn't jump out. Shifting to second is almost as easy..it requires paying attention to feel the click. 3rd and 4th are gentle but more positive. My feelings are that possibly shimming the detent plunger is the answer. I don't want to go into a brand new box but that's the breaks.

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Just tread gently on the lever when you change up, don't do anything quick. With any box, you can pass the detent, even cam plates have mass which causes inerta when you apply a force. The change drium in the TTI box is OK. If you fit a stronger spring in the detent, you might find changes more difficult. In any case Bruce has stuck the cap which hold the detent together, with really strong shit. I thought I needed to undo it to get the detent out, so I could remove the change drum. The detent ball and spring are inserted from the other side after you have removed the change druim. It is a bit fiddly.

I contacted TTI and they tell me to stretch the spring on the detent plunger to get a more sure click when shifting. So I go looking for something similar to the Norton part. However, nothing like that exists. It seems TTI has a shifting drum instead of a cam plate. All I can find is two bolts on the side of the box facing the motor. One of them must be the detent but which one? and what's the other one? Is it possible to make this change without losing some little part?

I suggest you ask Bruce to clarify. I’ve been inside mine to change the selector drum, but it might as well have been 50 years ago based on what details I can (ie cannot) remember !

At least some of those external fittings you mention are dummy on the TTI.

I think he might be referring to the actuater mechanisms inside the cover?

Yes, they have a drum selector. The internals have zero in common with the Norton design (thankfully).

Some good pics here:

Fast Eddie said:

I suggest you ask Bruce to clarify. I’ve been inside mine to change the selector drum, but it might as well have been 50 years ago based on what details I can (ie cannot) remember !

At least some of those external fittings you mention are dummy on the TTI.

I think he might be referring to the actuater mechanisms inside the cover?

Yes, they have a drum selector. The internals have zero in common with the Norton design (thankfully).

Some good pics here:

TTi Gearbox.

I pulled my (5 speed XHD) TTi box apart last night and thought there may be some interest in just what is inside these boxes. This one has done well over a 1000 miles of racing/parading and is in very good condition. Interesting choice of country to source the layshaft bearing though, still...

www.accessnorton.com

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The detent locator ball and spring is under the button headed screw.....really all of that stuff on the outside is purely cosmentic to support classic race rules on appearance.

I am absolutely amazed that you bought this box new and didn't know it was a drum change box......that is one of the selling points!

In this picture from the linked thread in FEs post the drum selector mechanism is on the pivot. When you take the cover off, which you can do with the pedal left on the splines, the mechanism stays with the cover. There is a hairpin spring behind the selector mechanism and it rests on the two pins on the selector.

Bruce says you need to ensure this spring tension is set correctly......I am struggling to remember exactly why.....but I made sure mine was as I was told!

When the cover is off I would remove the detent spring as Bruce has advised for stretching, but I would also make sure the drum rotates completely freely.

When I pulled mine apart the first time the drum did not rotate freely on reassembly. So I gently lapped it in with fine grinding past. Only a couple of turns. Pretty instant fix.

Not my bike. I have assembled this bike for someone else, this is one of the last few minor bugs. Thanks for the photo and instructions.

Madnorton said:

Yep, that it's it. Quite a few issues to resolve.

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Ashley, please post how it all turns out, I was thinking about getting a TTI for my Mk 3 but not now......

trident sam said:

Ashley, please post how it all turns out, I was thinking about getting a TTI for my Mk 3 but not now......

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Trident Sam - PM sent.