Trispark test help please

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BERT

BERT

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I am unclear with the test instructions that come with the trispark unit. They say to press and hold the test button and turn on the ignition switch. With the plugs removed and grounded, they should start sparking and increase in frequency for 10 seconds then stop. My question is if you do not release the test button, does the test automatically keep repeating after a short pause or not? This unit does.
I am trying to sort out misfiring which suddenly started after about 10 minutes into a first run after an engine rebuild. The bike started first kick, oil returned after 1 minute so away I went. It ran good up to then. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
i vaguely recall having something similar with a new tri-spark, but can't remember the details. i undid everything and checked all connections, and then everything seemed normal. double check that you have a good engine ground. one thing i did on my Mk2 was to add a secondary, dedicated engine ground, and didn't rely on a nut and bolt connection at the head steady for ground. it might be overkill, and can't say if it helps things overall, but figure, it can't hurt things either.
 
The engine ran fine before I took it down for a crankcase repair, trispark ignition included. I didn't do any work to the head or carbs. I recall reading in a previous thread these electronic gizmos can fail just by being dormant, thus I did this test described in the instructions which came with the installed trispark on the bike when I bought it. I am wondering if the test repeats after a slight pause instead of "stopping" as described in the test instructions would indicate a failed unit. That is my question.
 
According to my Tri-Spark installation manual, Page 9, you lightly hold the TEST button down with a pen while turning on the ignition switch--this starts the test sequence. The sequence should stop after 10 seconds. Not supposed to auto repeat by my interpretation. If you are continually holding the TEST button down, it may/may not keep repeating the test sequence.
Regards,
998cc
 
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"one thing i did on my Mk2 was to add a secondary, dedicated engine ground, and didn't rely on a nut and bolt connection at the head steady for ground. it might be overkill"

IMO, It's NOT overkill; it's a "must!" ;) The OEM ground system on a pre-electric start Commando needs help to ensure a long-term, solid electrical contact for the engine/ignition.
 
@BERT the test runs once, not continually and is designed to confirm that the unit is wired up correctly and is functioning as it should.

You could run it again when everything is hot after a ride (being careful not to burn your fingers or melt your plug leads) but it won't give you a decent indication of issues that normally manifest under load.



A couple of things to check though in the priority order that i'd be looking:
  1. positive feed to your tri-saprk - run a separate red back to the coil where it goes off into your harness rather than rely on getting it from the mounting post in the points cover.
  2. as already mentioned run a loop of wire from the red positive at the head steady directly to the head itself, rather than relying on getting power through the rubber mountings!
  3. check your kill switch and ignition switch - dirty contacts can give you issues.
  4. test with some different coils - they can break down under load, and the resin filled ones definitely don't last forever.
  5. if you are running an aftermarket reg/rec try disconnecting it and going for a short ride on battery only - do your issues magically disappear?


If you are adamant it's an electrical issue you've got, we can all guarantee it will turn out to be fuelling and carburation - that's sods law!
  1. put your hands on the carbs, are they nice and cool, or are you getting heat soak back from the engine?
  2. is the breather hole in your fuel cap clear, allowing a decent flow of fuel?
 
MexicoMike said:
"one thing i did on my Mk2 was to add a secondary, dedicated engine ground, and didn't rely on a nut and bolt connection at the head steady for ground. it might be overkill"

IMO, It's NOT overkill; it's a "must!" ;) The OEM ground system on a pre-electric start Commando needs help to ensure a long-term, solid electrical contact for the engine/ignition.
Click to expand...
as to the tri-spark, and i can't remember where i read it - either here or on one of the BSA forums, but someone actually ran the ground wire from the tri-spark assembly directly back to the battery ground (positive), and didn't rely on the mounting post connection. one thing to note - if you have to loosen the mounting posts for any reason, the tri-spark ground wire connection is not a secure ground at that point. on my 74, when the mounting post is loose, i have a jumper connected to the ground wire back to the a secure part of the engine before any power is applied to the ignition system. this may be why a tri-spark direct ground connection may not be a bad idea. electrons are funny things - if a solid ground is not provided, they will seek out a path of least resistance.
 
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BERT said:
The engine ran fine before I took it down for a crankcase repair, trispark ignition included. I didn't do any work to the head or carbs. I recall reading in a previous thread these electronic gizmos can fail just by being dormant, thus I did this test described in the instructions which came with the installed trispark on the bike when I bought it. I am wondering if the test repeats after a slight pause instead of "stopping" as described in the test instructions would indicate a failed unit. That is my question.
Click to expand...
Keeping the button pressed is not defined in the instructions. Release the test button after the sequence starts. If it sparks and shuts off, it's working. An email to Steve Kelly would answer that.

Electronics don't fail from not being used, unless you wait 20 years for the capacitors to get leaky.
 
Yes, the instructions and specifically the details on how the test mode works in the Troubleshooting Guide are very clear indeed:

Trispark test help please


If you don't have it already, it can be found here:
 
I misinterpreted the test instructions. I was holding the test button in while testing. The sparking is indeed stopping after 10 seconds as it should. Thank you for the help guys, now onto the next step. I will follow the other suggestions and start with simple obvious (which I often miss) solutions.
 
Another item that has been discussed in the forums is the kill button. It has been identified as a culprit in engines mysteriously cutting out, especially at low RPM.
 
998cc said:
Another item that has been discussed in the forums is the kill button. It has been identified as a culprit in engines mysteriously cutting out, especially at low RPM.
Click to expand...
Regarding the switchgear, has anyone tried dowsing them with this stuff??:
Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaner Lubricant Contact Cleaner
I bought a couple of tins to revive my hi-fi amplifier, did an excellent job and has since brought a DAB radio back from the dead, silenced a very noisy guitar amp and cured a intermittent fault on a guitar switch! Probably the best tin of 'stuff' I bought, and I'm not even halfway through the first tin...
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Regarding the switchgear, has anyone tried dowsing them with this stuff??:
Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaner Lubricant Contact Cleaner
I bought a couple of tins to revive my hi-fi amplifier, did an excellent job and has since brought a DAB radio back from the dead, silenced a very noisy guitar amp and cured a intermittent fault on a guitar switch! Probably the best tin of 'stuff' I bought, and I'm not even halfway through the first tin...
Click to expand...
Not to derail the thread. On this side of the pond, we have a product called "Deoxit". I've used it on my radios, transmitters and stereo gear for years.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Regarding the switchgear, has anyone tried dowsing them with this stuff??:
Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaner Lubricant Contact Cleaner
I bought a couple of tins to revive my hi-fi amplifier, did an excellent job and has since brought a DAB radio back from the dead, silenced a very noisy guitar amp and cured a intermittent fault on a guitar switch! Probably the best tin of 'stuff' I bought, and I'm not even halfway through the first tin...
Click to expand...
I have the Radio Shack equivalent, been using it for years. With the Lucas kill switch in normal configuration, the switch disconnects coil current which causes the contacts to pit and burn just like a set of points. You need to dress the contacts with a points file or Emery cloth before spraying cleaner.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have narrowed the misfiring issue down. Up to now, the trispark has been tested(ok), the carbs have been cleaned, I raised the needle one notch, checked and set float height, and all electric grounds have been cleaned. I used dielectric grease on all connections including mating surfaces and discovered it is not a conductor. So the mating surfaces have been cleaned. I fired up and the bike still misfired over idle once it got warm and under load. I disconnected the stator wires off the Alton and the misfiring is gone and she runs good. So I can conclude it is an electrical issue. I could sure use help as to how to proceed from here. Thanks in advance.
 
I would be looking at the regulator/rectifier, sounds like AC is leaking into the DC side or the voltage is going too high.
 
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