Trispark test help please

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The podtronic unit has been tested using the 4 step test and there is no continuity on any step. I am suspecting it(thanks kommando). Now to try and figure out why it failed so another one doesn't get fried. Thus the question whether 33vAC off the Alton alternator could be too much voltage.
 
Thanks tornado, yes I have read it. I have disconnected the alternator and the misfiring clears up with a test drive. Not sure where to go now, as OP has mentioned to look at the reg/rect which I have to assume is the podtronic unit. I have done the 4step test on it for continuity and it showed no continuity all ways. Can I assume it is a failed unit and what can cause this?
 
BERT said:
Thanks tornado, yes I have read it. I have disconnected the alternator and the misfiring clears up with a test drive. Not sure where to go now, as OP has mentioned to look at the reg/rect which I have to assume is the podtronic unit. I have done the 4step test on it for continuity and it showed no continuity all ways. Can I assume it is a failed unit and what can cause this?
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Well it might not have failed, but just electrically noisey by insufficient filtering or sheilding.
As per bulletin, a filter/capacitor can be placed in line to smooth out the noise spikes or try another brand/type of RegRec. Trispark sells a filter or a similar rated one sourced from an electronics supplier nearer to you can be had. Should be less than $5 or $10.
 
Also ha ve you tried identifying which side is misfiring? If only one side, try swapping plugs and HT leads left to right, so that left coil is firing right side and vis versa to see if trouble moves with it.
 
Tornado said:
Also ha ve you tried identifying which side is misfiring? If only one side, try swapping plugs and HT leads left to right, so that left coil is firing right side and vis versa to see if trouble moves with it.
Click to expand...
The trouble immediately stopped when I disconnected the alternator as I have previously mentioned.I am very close to getting this sorted out. It would be nice to show up at Lavigne on a running new rebuild!
 
Sorry, I did not intend to add to kommando's post, my intentions are to inquire, my words are "could these cause diode failure in a Pod unit" (Appologies, these devices are easy to touch the wrong place) on a separate post.
 
You already found the problem. This is a known issue with electrical noise from certain Podtronics regulators affecting the TriSpark at certain RPMs. There should be a model number on the Pod somewhere that you can check against the bulletin from TriSpark.
Testing the Pod with a multimeter probably won't show up anything since it is not a hard failure. 33V AC no load from the alternator is probably about right. I don't think you blew up the Pod because of over-voltage. I would just replace it with a different rec/reg. Or you could buy the filter from TriSpark.
 
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BERT said:
The podtronic unit has been tested using the 4 step test and there is no continuity on any step.
Click to expand...
That does not fit the symptoms, if all 4 legs do not pass electricity then how is the alternator output interfering with the ignition.
BERT said:
The trouble immediately stopped when I disconnected the alternator as I have previously mentioned.I am very close to getting this sorted out. It would be nice to show up at Lavigne on a running new rebuild!
Click to expand...
As above, you need to review your 4 tests or jump to the next test which is to connect the alternator and run the bike testing the voltage on the DC side which should increase with revs if the rectifier is working.

That still leaves you will the AC leaking or the Pod interfering with the Trispark but if its charging then at least you know its not been fried by another unknown fault and you can replace it with a Trispark friendly alternative.
 
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batrider said:
You already found the problem. This is a known issue with electrical noise from certain Podtronics regulators affecting the TriSpark at certain RPMs. There should be a model number on the Pod somewhere that you can check against the bulletin from TriSpark.
Testing the Pod with a multimeter probably won't show up anything since it is not a hard failure. 33V AC no load from the alternator is probably about right. I don't think you blew up the Pod because of over-voltage. I would just replace it with a different rec/reg. Or you could buy the filter from TriSpark.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input and advice. I used Grant Tiller's test instructions ( easy to understand) for the Pod unit. This one has no model # on it, just the output specs.(200w). I have ordered 2 more along with the trispark filter. An extra wouldn't hurt, especially if the problem persists and needs further diagnostics. Thanks again.
 
kommando said:
That does not fit the symptoms, if all 4 legs do not pass electricity the how is the alternator output interfering with the ignition.

As above, you need to review your 4 tests or jump to the next test which is to connect the alternator and run the bike testing the voltage on the DC side which should increase with revs if the rectifier is working.

That still leaves you will the AC leaking or the Pod interfering with the Trispark but if its charging then at least you know its not been fried by another unknown fault and you can replace it with a Trispark friendly alternative.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your valued insight, I understand now. My plan is to try a new Pod unit with the trispark filter. I will also test the stator to see if any AC voltage is leaking to earth. You have been a big help and I am grateful for that. This project has been a huge learning curve and a good way to get to know and understand the machine.I
I also intend to follow your suggestions.
 
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Went through all the same things as you when I fit my TriSpark. Tried the filter, didn't solve the problem. Took off the Podtronic and put the rectifier/zener back on - no issues since, and the Alton alternator has not worked better - more amps, higher charging voltage.
 
You can also test if AC is leaking past the RegRec by simply connecting your AC voltmeter to the battery terminals or other +/- connection points such as the stock power take off plug. If you see an any AC volts while running, then your RegRec ain't doing its job (at least the rectifier function of it).
 
Tornado said:
You can also test if AC is leaking past the RegRec by simply connecting your AC voltmeter to the battery terminals or other +/- connection points such as the stock power take off plug. If you see an any AC volts while running, then your RegRec ain't doing its job (at least the rectifier function of it).
Click to expand...
Thanks, that sounds like a good idea too.
 
Tornado said:
You can also test if AC is leaking past the RegRec by simply connecting your AC voltmeter to the battery terminals or other +/- connection points such as the stock power take off plug. If you see an any AC volts while running, then your RegRec ain't doing its job (at least the rectifier function of it).
Click to expand...
That's not true. Rectified AC will have an AC ripple component.
 
maylar said:
That's not true. Rectified AC will have an AC ripple component.
Click to expand...
Yes but that ripple will not be an unrectified 15-33 AC volts downstream of a working RR. This is a check described in the Norton service manual.
 
Alton say with alternator disconnected you should get 20 to 22 volts AC at a fast idle. So your voltage is probably correct.
 
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