trispark fire box

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I'm very interested in the trispark issues , I have commented before about early failures & how the newer version has been faultless for quite a while .
Are any of these failures with the new version ?
I fully understand the reluctance to rely on something that has let you down before , but all the same , if the new ones are working well then credit should be given where it is due .
Anyone had problems with the new version ?
My apologies to the OP for being off topic .
 
I had the original version for 10 years with no problems. Then my electrical system spiked high voltage and everything electronic got fried - the ignition, solid state assimilator, solid state flasher relay and finally the shitty Sparx R/R. I can't fault the TriSpark for failing under these conditions. I had bought a spare (newer version) from bill when he was having issues with them, and that's on the bike now. And I carry one with me, just in case. If I have to replace it again I'll probably use something else, but like bill I'm in love with the idle stabilization feature so I dunno what that'd be.
 
I'm very interested in the trispark issues , I have commented before about early failures & how the newer version has been faultless for quite a while .
Are any of these failures with the new version ?
I fully understand the reluctance to rely on something that has let you down before , but all the same , if the new ones are working well then credit should be given where it is due .
Anyone had problems with the new version ?
My apologies to the OP for being off topic .
The last failure was with the latter version along with the one i sold. I really liked the way it ran ,started and idled and hated to part with it but my history and cost it HAD to go.
 
I had the original version for 10 years with no problems. Then my electrical system spiked high voltage and everything electronic got fried - the ignition, solid state assimilator, solid state flasher relay and finally the shitty Sparx R/R. I can't fault the TriSpark for failing under these conditions. I had bought a spare (newer version) from bill when he was having issues with them, and that's on the bike now. And I carry one with me, just in case. If I have to replace it again I'll probably use something else, but like bill I'm in love with the idle stabilization feature so I dunno what that'd be.
You can buy a cheap DC DC regulator to protect your ignition
The one I have has an 8 to
48volt input and 12volt output it's wired to the power feed to my ignition
 
You can buy a cheap DC DC regulator to protect your ignition
The one I have has an 8 to
48volt input and 12volt output it's wired to the power feed to my ignition

Then you have one more thing that can fail, in series with your ignition.
 
Yes I agree but I need to protect the fuse in my Alton starter sprag from kickbacks
And if I use the Kickstarter it shouldn't kick me back if the voltage is low
Having said that since changing from Boyer to Lucas Rita it never does kick back
Also it's very easy to get to and if there was a failure with it I just unplug it no tools necessary
Also if the regulator side of my RR died it won't fry my ignition
I do wonder if some of the problems with trispark are caused by the charging circuit
So for me it's worth the £14 just to know my ignition is getting 12v and only 12v
 
well i got done changing the plug wires from solid core to resistor and have the 5K caps on also. I have not gone for a ride but after several warm starts NO kickback, starts very easy compared to before and even sounds sharper. I am not saying problem solved but so far so good. Thanks jim comstock for the help. I know what you said gos against telling you NOT to do this but it seams to work.
 
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