torque plates when boring or not?

Joined
Feb 1, 2013
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5
Need to get an Atlas cyl bored 20 over.
Have seen only pro's for using a torque plate, but alot of " you don't need to use one with a cast iron cyl that bolts to the cases without thru bolts or any cast iron cyl for that matter "..
I guess if you have one use it..Do I need to find a company with one or just go to a local competent motorcycle shop and get it done without one???....Any recommendations ??
Hopefully this post is not in the wrong place..
 
ouch fer sure...obviously the first taker knows absolutely nothing about the subject matter n is bored enough to snipe a first time poster with some smart ass comment..
Maybe he may learn something from this post too. Maybe my 50 yr old cast iron cyl doesn't distort at all when you put it together, but fact is, it's not only cosworths or high perf motors that need torque plates when they are bored...Was just looking for legit comments..
 
I don't think John was trying to be nasty, simply pointing out that our old Nortons are somewhat 'old tech' and generally get by with old tech solutions. If you have a reputable outfit nearby that can do the job using torque plates then there is no harm in this at all, but I have never had any problem with Norton cast iron cylinders machined without the plates. i haven't done hundreds of engines but over a dozen now.
 
CID man

My 45 yo cylinders are kinda special to me , I wouldn't sleep with them but special they are.

Don't know where you are to give you ideas. That's why I didn't post for ages either, got my ass chewed a few days ago , hey ho WGAF.

Keep posting j
 
My experience is that they are only necessary for 920 conversions that sleeve the stock iron cylinders, but they are really needed there.

Ken
 
When I had some Commando cylinders rebored, quite some years ago now, I was told to go with a shop that knew about boring
cylinders for motorcycles from the base - rather than like car cylinders are bored, from the top down.

This totally prevents the sleeves/spiggots at the base being bored offset or eccentric to the cylinder axis.
(And the spiggots ending up thin on one side and thicker on t'other.)

Have had a few cylinders for various things bored since then, and they always bolt the top surface down to their table,
and begin the boring from the base end of things.
No problemo...

??
 
Rohan said:
When I had some Commando cylinders rebored, quite some years ago now, I was told to go with a shop that knew about boring
cylinders for motorcycles from the base - rather than like car cylinders are bored, from the top down.

This totally prevents the sleeves/spiggots at the base being bored offset or eccentric to the cylinder axis.
(And the spiggots ending up thin on one side and thicker on t'other.)

Have had a few cylinders for various things bored since then, and they always bolt the top surface down to their table,
and begin the boring from the base end of things.
No problemo...

??



The local guy after inspecting my cyl said.. he would bore from the base, without a torque plate.

Thank to everyone who provided pos & valid input.
 
Dave , I was not being nasty, the idea of torque plates is to pre-stresse the cylinder top as the head will do, lots of cast iron around the bolt holes as a norton as,,will not distort the cylinders ..if the holes are very close to the wall then yes use a plate. These plates are normaly blue print requirments.
dave M said:
I don't think John was trying to be nasty, simply pointing out that our old Nortons are somewhat 'old tech' and generally get by with old tech solutions. If you have a reputable outfit nearby that can do the job using torque plates then there is no harm in this at all, but I have never had any problem with Norton cast iron cylinders machined without the plates. i haven't done hundreds of engines but over a dozen now.
 
John, I know you weren't being nasty and you know you weren't being nasty, but somehow it seems that offence was taken, often a feature of the internet, an imperfect medium of communication!
 
john robert bould said:
Dave , I was not being nasty, the idea of torque plates is to pre-stresse the cylinder top as the head will do, lots of cast iron around the bolt holes as a norton as,,will not distort the cylinders ..if the holes are very close to the wall then yes use a plate. These plates are normaly blue print requirments.
dave M said:
I don't think John was trying to be nasty, simply pointing out that our old Nortons are somewhat 'old tech' and generally get by with old tech solutions. If you have a reputable outfit nearby that can do the job using torque plates then there is no harm in this at all, but I have never had any problem with Norton cast iron cylinders machined without the plates. i haven't done hundreds of engines but over a dozen now.

John

I took barrels recently to be checked out by mr C. Cole a fellow from the east , plus 20's came out ,thinking a tart up and they'll be ok . However he informed me that they had been bored oval, which is probably why the head was off and the crank -40, was well stiff . He said that too much material would have to be removed from the bores so they are basically scrap. I think he said they hadn't been fixed properly when they were done. Can't be sure of this cos I was crying at the time. Any thoughts?

J
 
Explain further ?
What cylinders are these.
The bore is now +20 or +40.
Are they now out too far to be sleeved ?
 
Rohan said:
Explain further ?
What cylinders are these.
The bore is now +20 or +40.
Are they now out too far to be sleeved ?

750 commando bore -20 , +20 pistons

He said to little material would be left to resleeve

torque plates when boring or not?


torque plates when boring or not?

The photos are not the best.

J
 
Auldblue,
Seen the pictures, the cylinder wall is very thin,and i would doubt a linner could be fitted. Cost wise ..well its a case of getting a better S/H standard set.
The cylinders being bored Oval....Either the boring head is worn ..or as you say..the cylinders where loose. Get EBAYING! But take care,,,parts are on there for a reason...Ask the questions,




auldblue said:
john robert bould said:
Dave , I was not being nasty, the idea of torque plates is to pre-stresse the cylinder top as the head will do, lots of cast iron around the bolt holes as a norton as,,will not distort the cylinders ..if the holes are very close to the wall then yes use a plate. These plates are normaly blue print requirments.
dave M said:
I don't think John was trying to be nasty, simply pointing out that our old Nortons are somewhat 'old tech' and generally get by with old tech solutions. If you have a reputable outfit nearby that can do the job using torque plates then there is no harm in this at all, but I have never had any problem with Norton cast iron cylinders machined without the plates. i haven't done hundreds of engines but over a dozen now.

John

I took barrels recently to be checked out by mr C. Cole a fellow from the east , plus 20's came out ,thinking a tart up and they'll be ok . However he informed me that they had been bored oval, which is probably why the head was off and the crank -40, was well stiff . He said that too much material would have to be removed from the bores so they are basically scrap. I think he said they hadn't been fixed properly when they were done. Can't be sure of this cos I was crying at the time. Any thoughts?

J
 
John

Thanks for the reply, and as hobot would say ugh. I have spoken to phil at AN and probably going to get a set from him.
I really fancy an ally set from Middlestown but with the price difference I could buy some fancy fork internals or carbs.we will have to wait and see, by the way the project bike is a combat. I think with the money it's going to swallow it will be 2016 by the time I get finished.

Thanks again ,your help is appreciated
Jim
 
Its only at +20 and can't be sleeved ???

What do folks who have had these particular type of cylinders sleeved say to that....
 
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