Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

Tool for locking cam sprockets for removal and torquing

EstuaryBoy said:

And in the true spirit of Blue Peter, on the odd occasions that oil needs to go sideways (chaincase), a butchered milk carton can be of use (but always ask a grown up to help with any cutting )


And here's one I made earlier!

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Nice to see your using semi Skimmed Brett

Spindle remove tool:


Spindle filler:

Torque wrench extensions for the cylinder head lower nuts. I made these 37 years ago. Cut two British sockets in half. Welded the halves to pieces of steel plate.







Finally figured it out. Thanks Les for the help.

acadian said:

Tool for locking cam sprockets for removal and torquing

View attachment 22034

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What is that? 3/16" or 1/4" 6061-T6 Plate? What are the tool dimensions?

@chaztuna

How did you manage to cut a socket in half? Or did you grind down two, one for each end?

Slick

chaztuna said:

What is that? 3/16" or 1/4" 6061-T6 Plate? What are the tool dimensions?

Click to expand...

3003, 1/8"

Sliding hammer to remove trispark rotor (M 8)

Specialty tool #463 This allows you to remove large transmission bearing without removing housing from frame. The chrome spacer with rust is a Norton disc break piston, by reversing spacer you can install or remove bearing part #040098 sleeve gear bearing. Still have to preheat.

Good stuff guys keep them coming.

texasSlick said:

@chaztuna

How did you manage to cut a socket in half? Or did you grind down two, one for each end?

Slick

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I stuck an old damaged 3/8" drive extension in the drive end and a wooden dowel into the socket end of the socket. I then laid the socket on it's side on a band saw [metal cutting blade], holding the extension and dowel to control the socket during the cut. You are cutting the sockets [remember you need two of these tools] into a top and bottom half. If your cut is less than parallel, simply dress the cut edges with a file.

chaztuna said:

Torque wrench extensions for the cylinder head lower nuts. I made these 37 years ago. Cut two British sockets in half. Welded the halves to pieces of steel plate.

Click to expand...

More importantly - how long til' the bruises heal? (once your wife observed you had dirtied her purty paper)

chaztuna said:

Finally figured it out. Thanks Les for the help.

Click to expand...

acadian said:

Tool for locking cam sprockets for removal and torquing

View attachment 22034

Click to expand...

Do you have a pic showing in place? It´s early sunday morning, can not for my life grasp how to use it......

Nice tip on a way to remove seized brake caliper piston by fitting a grease nipple on the bleed screw opening and using grease gun to pressurize the piston. Idea is from this Triton restoration video:

No M/c ?

Tornado said:

Nice tip on a way to remove seized brake caliper piston by fitting a grease nipple on the bleed screw opening and using grease gun to pressurize the piston. Idea is from this Triton restoration video:

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The real question is where do you find a Zerk fitting [North American style grease fitting] that will fit the Commando calipers? The bleed screw seals against a taper at the bottom of the tapped hole. If you damage that taper when installing a grease fitting, the caliper is ruined. I couldn't find one. All other methods of removing the inner piston failed for me, sooo......No more mister nice guy! Photo shows outer piston removed intact, both halves of the inner piston, the jack screw and my Snap On Model A176 differental peg spanner tool. This tool works great for removing the outer screw in plug without damaging to holes in the outer face. Odds are HF now makes a copy of this tool.



I drilled and tapped the center of the back wall of the inner piston to 3/8" X 16 [UNC]. I then used a long 3/8" UNC bolt to press the piston out. [Do NOT attempt to use the tap as a jack screw]. The bolt will bottom on the back wall of the caliper. As you continue to screw the bolt in, the piston will be forced out. This works best if you heat the caliper to about 250F [no more than 300F, aluminum can warp above 300F] prior to pressing the piston out. To prevent the damaged piston walls from scoring the bore for the outer piston, I stopped half way out. I let the caliper cool down. Remove the bolt. I cut the piston in half using a band saw. You could use a hack saw if a band saw is not available. Remove the cut off section of piston through the center opening. Heat the caliper again. Use the bolt to press the remaining portion of the piston up out of it's bore. Let cool again. Remove the bolt and take the remaining section of piston out through the center opening.

Gene, check your PMs

texasSlick said:

@chaztuna

How did you manage to cut a socket in half? Or did you grind down two, one for each end?

Slick

Click to expand...

Another method, if you have a steady hand, would be to clamp about 1/3 of the socket in a vice. Then use a pneumatic die grinder and thin cut off wheel to cut the socket in half.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-45-cfm-air-die-grinder-92144.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-cut-off-wheel-arbor-for-die-grinder-64674.html

One 'key', shaped to fit the primary case plugs.

A flat piece of metal to fit between the disc pads when bleeding the brakes. I have the Lockheed CP2696 calipers, and the bleed nipple is 'inboard', between the disc and the spokes, so I take the wheel out when bleeding the brakes. These seem a bit more elegant than putting a screwdriver between the brake pads.

Now, I'm sure all you experienced Nortoneers out there will know this one but...
There's a great socket, readily available, to remove the top nut on the forks. It has the advantages of:
1. rounded corners - so doesn't damage the hex-heads.
2. fitted o-ring so doesn't scratch polished nuts (no - not those ones!)
I was going to take a photo, but the ebay one is probably better
Cheers