Timing cover gasket - to goo or not to goo ?

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I am about to put the timing cover onto an 850 Commando engine built up from scratch.

I am using a timing cover gasket from Andover Norton.

In the past I have always used a non setting goo on all my gaskets.

As I'm likely to want to remove the timing cover in the first few hundred miles to check
all is ok I'm tempted not to use goo to make it easier to get the timing cover off.

What is the experience of people who do not use goo on their timing cover gaskets ?

Do they weep oil or are they oil tight with no goo ?

I am very happy with the goo I use and please don't need a discussion on the best or worst goo.

Just experience on using no goo

Thanks
 
I am about to put the timing cover onto an 850 Commando engine built up from scratch.

I am using a timing cover gasket from Andover Norton.

In the past I have always used a non setting goo on all my gaskets.

As I'm likely to want to remove the timing cover in the first few hundred miles to check
all is ok I'm tempted not to use goo to make it easier to get the timing cover off.

What is the experience of people who do not use goo on their timing cover gaskets ?

Do they weep oil or are they oil tight with no goo ?

I am very happy with the goo I use and please don't need a discussion on the best or worst goo.

Just experience on using no goo

Thanks
Then just use a thick grease.
 
Hi Berhard

Why use thick grease, surely it melts and runs down over the cases ?

I am proposing to use the paper/card gasket with nothing on it

Thanks
 
Grease holds it in place but stops the paper sticking to the surface and is surprisingly leak free, I use grease on one side and Loctite 518 on the other so the gasket stays on the cover but releases easily from the crankcase.
 
Hi Berhard

Why use thick grease, surely it melts and runs down over the cases

Thanks
You've taken that out of context, I merely meant a film of thick grease wiped over the paper gasket, it also will act as a release agent. . . .
 
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Plus 1. Just smear some grease on the gasket to make future removal easier. There is no need for goo.
 
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No Goo...it will generally make life harder later.

The most I have ever tried is a very light smear of Wellseal, but I don't normally do that.

I have tried the grease, that works well too, if you feel the need to keep the gasket located whilst you pop the cover on!

And as said, grease may make it a little easier to remove, but I suspect that is affected by time between cover removal.
 
If surfaces are sound no goo, thin smear of grease to both sides of the gasket.... if one of the faces is a bit suspect then apply to the sealant to that side only & grease on the other..... you will pat yourself on the back when you next come to remove the cover
 
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I used to use Loctite 518 - Last time I used Permatex Motoseal, just a thin smear, as I was reusing the old gasket (use it on the primary cover too - great stuff!!). More of an insurance policy than anything, and I will likely replace the gasket the next time it comes off, when ever that is. Doesn't leak :)

If you are planning on removing it again in a few hundred miles, I agree with the above, preferably nothing, then goo it the next time. Wash the gasket with a bit of brake cleaner or starting fluid before reinstalling.
 
I always use goo, but I never anticipate having to get back inside, so the gasket is considered disposable. If I was expecting to open it again I'd use goo on one side and grease on the other and deal with whatever leak there might be. Then goo the greased side once it'll be buttoned up permanently. Since you already have the gasket it's probably of no use to you to suggest one of these:

https://jsmotorsport.com/product-category/gaskets-norton-motorcycle-bike/
 
I have suffered a weep at the bottom of my timing cover ever since I first removed it to check the cam and magneto chains.

I have tried all sorts of gasket materials, including JS silicone, with and without goo. The weep was finally stopped using 1/32" synthetic cork with hylomar both sides. The hylomar does not set, and removal is easy.

Slick
 
I am happy that if I use the normal goo I use it will not leak, but on this new build I intend to have a look after a few hundred miles.

I wanted to get the experience of people that do not use goo - does it leak or give other issues without goo ?

The consensus so far seems to be coat the paper/card with a thin smear of grease to aid removal - so that's the plan

Thank you for your replies
 
recently, every time i'm dealing with a paper gasket, i apply a coat of either castrol red rubber grease, or permatex gasket tack sealant.
 
I am happy that if I use the normal goo I use it will not leak, but on this new build I intend to have a look after a few hundred miles.

I wanted to get the experience of people that do not use goo - does it leak or give other issues without goo ?

The consensus so far seems to be coat the paper/card with a thin smear of grease to aid removal - so that's the plan

Thank you for your replies
If both surfaces are sound the paper gasket with a smear of grease doesn't leak or weep ..... well it doesn't on mine
I did though check both faces on a surface plate prior to assembly
 
I never use anything other than grease on a gasket
Most oil leaks are caused by the engine not breathing properly
 
First timer here. When I did the timing chain refresh last season I went with dry fitting gasket. Did same for gearbox casings (as recommended by the eminent Mick Hemmings in his video). No leaks on either GB or TC.
 
Loctite 518. Gaskets is leak free, peels off like a sticky note.
 
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I bought a full set of gaskets from Jim Schmidt, can´t leave a review since I haven´t managed to put the engine together yet, but I´m getting there...... and I trust his stuff is good....
 
I used a dry AN gasket lightly smeared with oil and no leak or weep but it could be down to the XS breather.
 
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