Throttle/Twist grip set-up

Hey guys,

Have gone through the parts and maint manuals to figure out where I went wrong when I last disassembled my throttle assembly. Alas, no luck or more precisely...pics to show how I f'd it up. Right now, the throttle can rotate in the opposite direction. I put t screw up the bottom hole (see below) and it stopped this but there was still a fair amount of slack before the carbs grabbed.

Can anyone explain where the little curved sprung metal bit should be placed inside the clam shell?

Also, I noticed that there is a tapped hole at the lowest point on the bottom half...I assume that there should be a screw in there to serve as a stop and if so, does it go through the sprung steal bit?

Cue the 2001 music where the monkeys are smacking things with bones and you will get an idea of what it looks like when I play with my bike...

Thanks B-Stone

The spring you are talking about is to increase/decrease friction on the throttle. A small screw or bolt goes through the bottom housing hole that you mentioned and as you screw this in it pushes the spring against the throttle increasing resistance. I took it out of my throttle and don't use it. The throttle will work fine without it.

I don't know how your throttle can operate in the opposite direction as the piece of the throttle where the cable(s) connect should hit the inner part of the housing when rotated away from you. This is the "stop" where your throttle engagement should begin.

Are you installing it with the same cable you took off the bike? If a new cable, maybe the inner to outer length is wrong. Compare to old one if this is the case. Are all the throttle parts from the original throttle or are you mixing and matching parts from more than one throttle? They are not all the same.

Good luck!

Sounds like maybe you have the cable seated in the throttle improperly, and/or you have too much cable and it's feeding back into the throttle assembly when you rotate forward? Is the cable moving freely or is it binding up in its cover? Sounds like you have too much cable in any event.

After threading the cable through the bottom clam shell and hooking the cable end to the grip casting you need to mate the three pieces properly. The raised portion of the grip casting is the stop for throttle off and needs to abut the bottom clam shell casting. now fit the top casting and screws.
The next part is maybe where you have strayed. You fit on the cable abutment it's a little bit of round stock with a hole for the cable that has a cutaway so it can be fitted after the throttle assembly it takes up about 3/8 of cable slack. There are two diameters on this little piece you would not be the first to loose this piece.

There are two diameters on this little piece you would not be the first to loose this piece.

Click to expand...

Hmm.... Greg you are so right. I thought I was prepared by carrying a spare throttle cable and clutch cable, but neglected to carry an extra abutment ferrule. At Daytona this year I left a traffic light only to have the engine suddenly drop to idle. Looking down to see my throttle cable smacking my knee, I thought, no problem, I have a spare. Well, when your upper throttle cable breaks, the little abutment ferrule goes bouncing across the road. I had to tape the throttle cable housing to the handlebar to limp back to the motel.

I now have a spare abutment ferrule taped to my spare throttle cable.

A word to the wise.....

Thanks

Excellent points as per. I will now put on my monkey suit and grab a thigh bone and return to the garage!

Any luck I may even find the chummy-jigger as I am sure it dropped off when I had it apart last...

Cheers

B=stone

Follow-up....

The abutment was still there but n close inspection, the bottom clam was grooved/worn. The stop was also worn hence its desire to roll back in on itself. Looks like new throttle grip assembly for me.

One last question is with respect to the thin disk that sits next to the rubber grip. Is this supposed to be inside the clam shell?

My bike is like my wife it would appear....if I play with it I am not allowed to ride it for at least a week!

Thanks again to all!

I have a lot of worn throttles around and have never seen a groove worn in the clam shells. If you think about it the clam shells have to clamp on the handle bar without jamming the grip support and the grip support rides nicely on the bar itself. On all of my old pieces the cable has had it's way with the soft metal of the grip support.
The plastic stays out side the castings by the way. Is this thing packed with old dry grease? Don't let this thing beat you man. Somethings out of place is all.

I'll hijack this thread a bit to ask about the throttle tensioning spring. Mine is still in place inside the throttle, but the adjuster screw has long since fallen out. How was it held in place originally? Does the screw have a groove and an itty bitty c-clip? I'd like to regain that functionality but I'm not sure what a decent repair should be.

A screw with a lock nut is normal. A spring would be a "Trick" set up by someone, I believe. Normally used with a Knurled head screw for on the fly poor mans cruse control.

Throttle Cables

OK....

I got new grip inners and the throttle now stops itself from rotating in the opposite direction. Apparently the gods did not appreciate my sacrifice as now the cable appears to tight and is holding the throttle slides too far open.

I have verified the routing is relatively equal, no binds, adjuster on top cable is max in etc.

I just don't get it, it never rotated in on itself all of last year yet the cable now appears to short?

The top cable is 25 1/2" the two shorts are about 10 1/2" Are these too short?

Any suggestions you guys have would be great.

Thanks again

A new grip may require a new free play length. I make my own cables because the store bought ones are goofy. Some time spent doing this will get you a life time cable with ideal routing but not the first try. Don't go batty when a part bought does not solve an old problem and creates a new one. This is the way it works and store bought cables are on the list of parts that don't work out of the box or bag. Did you know that you can buy a universal cable that is plus 10 or 20 inches? One end is already bonded and you just need to set the needed free play lengh and solder on the end provided. they are cheap too. This will allow you to move the cable adjuster to a point under the tank were it does not interfere with the bend off the bar to entering the tank tunnel. Did you know that it is ideal to stay as high with the cables as possible just before they enter the carbs. Getting this right is very rewarding and you get to use you smarts and the tools are cheap.. Have fun...

Thanks

I unscrewed the end cap and untwisted some of the outer housing. Snipped it off and seems good now. Not as much tension as before but its workable for me. Thanks for the tips!