Thread lock

A little more on 222 from the data sheet, for those interested:

"LOCTITE®222 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require easy disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Particularly suitable for applications such as adjustment of set screws, small diameter or long engagement length fasteners, where easy disassembly is required without shearing the screw. The thixotropic nature of LOCTITE®222 reduces the migration of liquid product after application to the substrate."

Also:

"Low strength threadlocker for the locking and sealing of small fasteners under 1/4" in diameter. Prevents loosening from shock and vibration, removable with hand tools."

FWIW, I've used 222 for years as a mild threadlocker for small screws in firearms, particularly scope mounts, as recommended by some of the manufacturers. In the Norton world, I use it on the compression adjusting needles I use in converting Commando forks to Honda cartridge internals. It allows adjustments without loosing the threadlocker effect.

Ken
 
Just using the tab washer on the Clutch hub nut always guarantees that it will be slightly loose the next time your in there. A dollop of loctite and a bit on the splines makes sure that the hub stays put. You need a puller to get the hub off though, Use the engine sprocket puller to do this.
 
To remove loctite, heat is the key. Have removed red and green fasteners with heat. Guess what, your engine gets hot. Also loctite not considered a lubricant. Have to be something like a graphite moly labeled as a thread lube. I use loctite all the time on the nortons.
George
 
TomU said:
Permatex Orange. A good compromise between blue and red?

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Thread lock
 
baldy said:
Also loctite not considered a lubricant.
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Been thinking since Tuesday on how to reply nicely.

True, Locktite is not meant as a lubricant. However Locktite acts as a Lubricant when wet - almost anything you put on clean/dry threads makes the fastener easier to turn and therefore changes the torque applied. This is well documented. Once tightened and the air is no longer able to get to the Locktite, it stiffens or hardens depending on which one is used.
 
1973x75 said:
My son used red lock tight on the sludge trap plug of a BSA A65. Years later I took the crank to Marine Crankshaft for some work, and they had to destroy it to get it out. I replaced it with a hex drive plug and no lock tight.
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"I talked to a guy, in a bar, who knew a guy, who used the front brake once on his Harley, threw him RIGHT over the handlebars....."
🍻😎
 
I’m
marshg246 said:
Been thinking since Tuesday on how to reply nicely.

True, Locktite is not meant as a lubricant. However Locktite acts as a Lubricant when wet - almost anything you put on clean/dry threads makes the fastener easier to turn and therefore changes the torque applied. This is well documented. Once tightened and the air is no longer able to get to the Locktite, it stiffens or hardens depending on which one is used
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marshg246 said:
Been thinking since Tuesday on how to reply nicely.

True, Locktite is not meant as a lubricant. However Locktite acts as a Lubricant when wet - almost anything you put on clean/dry threads makes the fastener easier to turn and therefore changes the torque applied. This is well documented. Once tightened and the air is no longer able to get to the Locktite, it stiffens or hardens depending on which one is used.
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Indeed, and I’d go a stage further with that logic: unless you clean both male and female threads thoroughly with alcohol or similar, and then dry the threads properly, you DO NOT have a dry thread !

Which realistically means that 99% of the time we don’t have dry threads.

Which is why ‘feel’ is an important skill for any mechanic, you can’t just yank till it clicks and think everything is ‘to spec’.
 
If you really want to nit pick that badly, surface finish on the hardware, quality of the threads, and material can all alter torque readings. As much as wet or dry threads i would imagine. On an assembly like a crank I'd be much more concerned with EQUAL torque readings rather than absolute values. Besides, a beam type wrench is only as good as the eye reading it and clicker only as good as its last calibration check. When was the last time any of you had yours checked?
 
MikeG said:
Besides, a beam type wrench is only as good as the eye reading it and clicker only as good as its last calibration check. When was the last time any of you had yours checked?
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Yes, you must protect against parallax error with a beam type wrench - simple to do.

Checked: Professionally, yearly. Against each other, often. I only actually use them on the more critical fasteners and I take the time to make sure every fastener goes on/in with fingers only and are clean and dry, even if I am using anti-seize or Locktite.
 
MikeG said:
If you really want to nit pick that badly, surface finish on the hardware, quality of the threads, and material can all alter torque readings. As much as wet or dry threads i would imagine. On an assembly like a crank I'd be much more concerned with EQUAL torque readings rather than absolute values. Besides, a beam type wrench is only as good as the eye reading it and clicker only as good as its last calibration check. When was the last time any of you had yours checked?
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That’s kinda backing up my point actually…

My point is that basically there are indeed many factors in play. But some folk seem happy to ignore most of them so long as the 20 year old, five dollar, uncalibrated torque wrench goes ‘click’ at the setting someone told them on the internet. Whereas someone using experience, and feel, and a wrench, is a Neanderthal…

I’m with you that (within reason) unified torque is more important than actual torque. Along with tightening done in sequence, gradually.

Note: lest I unintentionally mislead; I am by no means anti torque wrench, I am just pro ‘care’.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
I’m



Indeed, and I’d go a stage further with that logic: unless you clean both male and female threads thoroughly with alcohol or similar, and then dry the threads properly, you DO NOT have a dry thread !

Which realistically means that 99% of the time we don’t have dry threads.

Which is why ‘feel’ is an important skill for any mechanic, you can’t just yank till it clicks and think everything is ‘to spec’.
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True
This oiling occurs naturally on the head bolts by retorque time.
Even if the bolts went in intially with all threads in a perfectly dry condition , most if not all of the threads will be oily after some miles. My thought is lube them up beforehand so at least you have all threads lubed, even ground to start and all will still be oily on retorque.

Then pick your favourite torque number.


Glen
 
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