The Lambda Delete Thread

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I’m not telling anyone this lambda delete is the next best thing. Its what I did and I’m very happy so far.

If you wont say it , I WILL !


I try not to rock the boat because my dad is a dealer / mechanic for Nortons in Canada. well he was, or he is. Website says so, but when we call we are no longer. Hmmm. Have to ask Simon Skinner. We’re unsure. So until we know for sure, I’ll stay neutral.
 
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Richard .... here is a thought..... when you put the megaphone pipe on the Dominator, the drill is to unplug the Lambda sensors and remap with the Domi megaphone map. This presumably is to among other things to have the ECU ignore the lambda sensor thus not set the engine light. Just wondering what would happen if one were to pull the lambda sensors from a Commando and put in the Domi megaphone map if you would realize the same thing...... just a thought
 
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Richard .... here is a thought..... when you put the megaphone pipe on the Dominator, the drill is to unplug the Lambda sensors and remap with the Domi megaphone map. This presumably is to among other things to have the ECU ignore the lambda sensor thus not set the engine light. Just wondering what would happen if one were to pull the lambda sensors from a Commando and put in the Domi megaphone map if you would realize the same thing...... just a thought
This would also be a richer mixture due to the open megaphones.
But yes should cancel out the lambada sensor in the ECU.

cheers
Paul
 
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Well, same as before, amazing. No complaints this far. This time all I did was cruising (mostly). Bike started easy, came to a lumpy idle then settled after a couple minutes. So this part is very different to me. Usually its smooth from button. But I’m blaming the lambda delete plugs. I can deal with the weird cold starts for perfect everything else. Anyhow, I’ll report back soon. I may switch the clip ons back to standard bars though. Or I’ll force myself to once again get used to it. Maybe I just need a few solid weeks of riding to work my body back into a super awkward and uncomfortable riding position - again.
 

Fast Eddie

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I may switch the clip ons back to standard bars though. Or I’ll force myself to once again get used to it. Maybe I just need a few solid weeks of riding to work my body back into a super awkward and uncomfortable riding position - again.
No!
There’s plenty of time for big ‘old mans’ bars when you’re and old man!
You just gotta let it break you in again.
You’re too young for old mans bars Rich.
Keep the faith brother!
 

iwilson

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Well, same as before, amazing. No complaints this far. This time all I did was cruising (mostly). Bike started easy, came to a lumpy idle then settled after a couple minutes. So this part is very different to me. Usually its smooth from button. But I’m blaming the lambda delete plugs. I can deal with the weird cold starts for perfect everything else. Anyhow, I’ll report back soon. I may switch the clip ons back to standard bars though. Or I’ll force myself to once again get used to it. Maybe I just need a few solid weeks of riding to work my body back into a super awkward and uncomfortable riding position - again.
The ECU doesn't use the o2 sensors on startup because they need to be hot to work efficiently (which is why they have a built in heater). Glad to hear you're happy with the result, but have you tried riding it without bothering with the resistors? I'd do a test with my bike, but since I have the Dominator megaphone map which is presumed not to have o2 sensors Norton will have turned of any fault warning. I suspect it will be the same for you. But please try it. Right now one of two things is happening, the engine is running in permanent open loop i.e. just using the fuel maps in the ECU or depending on how sophisticated the simulator is, it's still running in closed loop at steady state throttle openings with who knows what AFR.

If Norton has disabled the ECU from throwing a fault code without an o2 sensor, you're better off just unplugging/removing the o2 sensor and putting a blanking plug in. I for one would like to know exactly what is going on and whether or not the resistor is actually needed. This is the kind of info that is really useful for the community.

Remember the o2 sensor is only used in steady state throttle openings, it makes zero difference when you're 'working' the throttle, plug a $5 bluetooth OBDII reader into your ECU and you can log a whole bunch of engine parameters whilst riding on your smartphone.
 
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The ECU doesn't use the o2 sensors on startup because they need to be hot to work efficiently (which is why they have a built in heater). Glad to hear you're happy with the result, but have you tried riding it without bothering with the resistors? I'd do a test with my bike, but since I have the Dominator megaphone map which is presumed not to have o2 sensors Norton will have turned of any fault warning. I suspect it will be the same for you. But please try it. Right now one of two things is happening, the engine is running in permanent open loop i.e. just using the fuel maps in the ECU or depending on how sophisticated the simulator is, it's still running in closed loop at steady state throttle openings with who knows what AFR.

If Norton has disabled the ECU from throwing a fault code without an o2 sensor, you're better off just unplugging/removing the o2 sensor and putting a blanking plug in. I for one would like to know exactly what is going on and whether or not the resistor is actually needed. This is the kind of info that is really useful for the community.

Remember the o2 sensor is only used in steady state throttle openings, it makes zero difference when you're 'working' the throttle, plug a $5 bluetooth OBDII reader into your ECU and you can log a whole bunch of engine parameters whilst riding on your smartphone.

I will plug into the Norton Software and see what it shows me. I’ll do
All these things. I only just pulled my bike out of storage and am working a ton of OT so not a lot of time for bike tinkering for the next few weeks.

Maybe the catless makes it a different starting bike. But for sure my flat spot is gone. I rode Friday fo 1/2 hour and then Sunday morning before doing any work for another half an hour and definitely flat spot. Now NONE.
 
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I will plug into the Norton Software and see what it shows me. I’ll do
All these things. I only just pulled my bike out of storage and am working a ton of OT so not a lot of time for bike tinkering for the next few weeks.

Maybe the catless makes it a different starting bike. But for sure my flat spot is gone. I rode Friday fo 1/2 hour and then Sunday morning before doing any work for another half an hour and definitely flat spot. Now NONE.
I ride catless too. My flat spot and weird vibe at 3700 to 4200 is still there. It did go away somewhat with map 90, but as I've mentioned, I think the dealership reinstalled 77. Got my plug. Haven't installed it yet.
 
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I ride catless too. My flat spot and weird vibe at 3700 to 4200 is still there. It did go away somewhat with map 90, but as I've mentioned, I think the dealership reinstalled 77. Got my plug. Haven't installed it yet.
Try the plugs and lets see if it goes away. Also interested in cold starts. Mine now has this strange one minute of lumpyness then settles into perfection. But that may be my ECU re learning after a long winter.
 
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Also, with the factory with cat mapping (76?) but w/o the cat, I got 44 mpg. With the remap, I only get 38 to 40 mpg, depending on how aggressive I get. I rarely shift hears over 5500 but do cruise sometimes at 4800.
 
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Also, with the factory with cat mapping (76?) but w/o the cat, I got 44 mpg. With the remap, I only get 38 to 40 mpg, depending on how aggressive I get. I rarely shift hears over 5500 but do cruise sometimes at 4800.
Cat or det cat doesn’t determine the map. Only the mufflers and airbox do.

So for Commando SC its
0760116 stock quiet pipes
0770116 motad shorties
Both of those could have de cat and it doesn’t change maps.

The 90 series is for the other airbox which is in domi.

091 was a popular one in a commando but simon Marshall assured me 077 was better and i ran 091 all year up until fall and switched to 077 and liked the 077 better so have stuck with it.
 
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I’m installing mine in the next hour. I made the same Mistake and got the kit with the threaded plugs too. Someone on here found some SS button head bolts. Thats what I’ll do to.
So the kit plug is the wrong size for the 961?
 

nopdog

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Yes, wrong size with mine.
I did the change over today and not good. Bike won’t run spits and farts will not idle. Decat and shorties but without remap. How do you get a remap in Australia?
I think I’ll change it back as was very happy with way it was running before. I was hoping it would cure the lumpiness around town at low speeds low revs.
 
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same here... with the plugs bike ran very rough at low rpm. And also get the engine warning light. Plugged the lambda's back in, and engine light still one... goddammit...
 
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same here... with the plugs bike ran very rough at low rpm. And also get the engine warning light. Plugged the lambda's back in, and engine light still one... goddammit...
Check the 10A fuse W to GY , this only feeds the O2 sensors. It may be out. You have a new Bike A 2017 -2018 with the New OMEX ? With the new Euro 4 wiring ? If the fuse is out do not use these plugs. New bikes are wired differently. If you have the Black , Green/yellow , Black , Grey (OX1) and Black , Green/Yellow , Black , yellow (OX2) . YOU Have the New wiring .
 
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Yes, it's a late 2017... so indeed Euro4. I didn't check the wire colours, but the plugs are indeed marked as OX1 and OX2.
Where do I find the fuse for it ?
 
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same here... with the plugs bike ran very rough at low rpm. And also get the engine warning light. Plugged the lambda's back in, and engine light still one... goddammit...
Now that you have the O2 sensors plugged back in does the bike run good again ? If light is still on and Bike is running good again with O2 sensors plugged in : Try disconnecting the battery for 5 min and reconnect and try again. Go for a reset / ?
 
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