I'm about the fit my winterized tank for first time. Put a bit of chainsaw oil (cheapest stuff I had on hand) in back in November...does it need proper flushing out or can it be poured out as much as possible then diluted in a tank of petrol to run engine without issues? Smokey exhaust for a bit maybe or worse?
I agree, Dave. As you probably know WD-40 is a water dispersant and not a lubricant. It consists of a petroleum distillate that is on the borderline of what is considered an "oil" and a slow evaporating "solvent".
You are referring to LPS 3. Like ACF 50 [mentioned earlier by Fast Eddie], it's amazing stuff. They guaranty no rust for 1 year. In an earlier life, I worked as an Aerospace machine assembler. [We built automated riveting systems used by all the major aircraft manufacturers (even the Russians) as well as the main fuel tank for the space shuttle.] While building the prototype machine for riveting the Boeing 747 wings [300 ton system] we ran out of room in the plant. A bunch of 15' X 2' long, 3000 pound machined items arrived from a sub contractor. The boss said to spray them with LPS 3. We then stacked them like cord wood outside. They sat outside all winter [Buffalo, NY] under 4 feet of snow. By May, they were needed. We brought them inside with a crane, cleaned them off. To my amazement, not a single speck of rust. Each of these items was worth about $70,000. I've been using it for 24 years since then. Works great for rust prevention. I've used it for items that have sat for as long as 10 years. Also great for automotive door/hood hinges, outside fence gate hinges, chain lube and many other uses.
Thanks to Mexico Mike and Onder for reminding me of Corrosion X. It is another worthy product for protecting your fuel tank.
Says the man with the RZ350.
Lol, been putting chain saw gas in four strokes occasionally for 50+ years.Says the man with the RZ350.
Great! Now the E10 gas will attract water, and it will still rust on the bottom, as the water sinks. Perhaps adding Sta-Bil to the gas would help? I once let a Ducati GTS 900 sit for 4 years. Luckily, I had drained the fuel from the carbs and added Sta-Bil prior to putting it up for winter storage. I was out of State during that lull. Upon my return, I replaced all the fluids. Jumped the battery and kick started the bike. It started and ran on the 3rd kick. Ran it around the neighborhood to let it get up to temp. Shut it down and went to buy a new battery. Sta-Bil is great stuff!
I thought we were talkin empty tank shelf storage....
We are. You were the one who suggested storing the tank with gasoline in it. Unless you are keeping the tank in your air conditioned home, you still have humidity in the air. The gas cap has a vent hole in it. Over time, that E10 will absorb that humidity. It will condense & end up at the bottom of the tank as water. Of course, I live in SE Florida, so it's always humid here. My buddy is now cleaning out the gas tanks on his 3 Harleys. He filled the tanks, but didn't ride the bikes for 18 months. All the tanks are rusty on the bottom, from the moisture absorbed by the E10.
Ah! Now I get it. I can be a bit slow sometimes.I should have quoted this, then it would have made sense to someone besides me...
Sorry Charlie.
“For myself I'd slosh some fuel and drain, but if you only drain well probably won't be enough left to matter any. Perhaps faint haze or little deposit on plugs. Then again could just burn right off too.”
