T160 it is so damn heavy

I have eventually got around to fitting a T140 stand to my T160 as discussed in the earlier pages of this thread by LAB and Flatspot.

I have always had difficulty getting my T160 onto the main stand (since 2007 when I bought it) and so thought I would see if I could get the T140 stand to work on my T160, and followed the advice from L.A.B. (see page 1 & 2) which was to buy a T140 centre stand, 1973-1979, part No.83-4941 the pivot point centre to foot being 9 ¼” as opposed to the T160 centre stand which had a 10 1/8” pivot centre to foot.

I have now fitted a T140 83-4941 centre stand and it is a massive improvement getting the bike on the centre stand.

The T160 uses the lugs on the front of the stand legs just below the pivot point to stop the bike on the frame and keep it upright in the correct position. On the T140 stand, these are larger and don’t allow the stand to tip far enough over centre and at first, I had the same problem that Flatspot had and my bike went on the stand easily but then dropped forwards off the stand. The solution was to take about 2mm from the face of the T140 stand stops and it now sits perfectly.

There were another two issues, one as L.A.B. pointed out. The T160 uses “stop lugs” on the top of the stand legs to stop the stand when retracted and to keep it in the correct position, whereas the T140 has 2 x stops that are located below the pivot holes, and so the stand would retract to hit the chain and or rear master cylinder when using the T140 stand. So I bought a T150 stand stop bracket as L.A.B. suggested, which is barely noticeable to the eye when fitted and this has sorted the position of where the stand sits when retracted. The other option would be to have two “lugs” welded to the top of the T140 stand and filed to size.

The only other slight issue was the loop to depress the stand was just kissing the l/h silencer so I put the stand in the vice and heated the area that needing bending, and bent it out ¼”.It now clears the exhaust nicely.

The other bonus is that the rear tyre which is standard 100/90/19 is still 1” from the ground when on the stand, not 2 ¼” if I remember correctly.

The centre stand on my T60 was probably the last major “unresolved” issue on my T160, so a very big thank you to Les / L.A.B. for putting this information on this thread .
 
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The picture above shows one of the legs from my T160 stand (which has been cut off) and has been bolted onto my T140 stand. Here you can see how much "higher" that the stop on the T140 stand is when compared to the T160 stand. Get the T140 "stop" taken down to the same level as the T160 and the T140 stand will work perfectly when putting the T160 onto the stand.
 
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In the above picture, you can see that on the "cut off" T160 leg bolted behind the T140 stand the stop protruding above the circular top of the T140 stand. This is what is used on a T160 to position the T160 stand when retracted. The T140 "stand stop" is the"ledge" below the bolt on the T140 stand. Unfortunately, the T140 fame is different here to the T160 frame so will not stop the stand when retracted in the correct position. The solution here is either to use the T150 main stand stop plate, or get two lugs welded onto the T140 stand to the same height and shape. I hope this makes sense.
 
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The T140 centrestand isn't the beefiest of things, be aware that the centre tube may crack / fracture where it is welded to the leg casting, it happened on my T140. If you're going to get some welding done, then a couple of triangular gussets between the stands legs and the centre tube will be worth considering.
 
Flatspot said:
I thought I’d finished working on the Trident and got it off the ramp, and what a struggle that was, it only wanted to slide across the surface. Finally I managed it and wheeled it outside so I could start it up and actually listen to it running properly.

Fine, I got the Commando out, View attachment 85953View attachment 85954and that as usual started first prod of the starter button and quickly settled down to a nice idle.

So, to the Trident, fuel on, tickled, ignition on, thumbed the button and it refuses to fire up. Oh buggerit I need to check what I’ve done to the ignition system as it was working the last time I checked.

But now to the real problem. I can not get it up into the centrestand. It’s a heavy bike granted, but I’ve had heavier, and none so awkward. Yes, I do have a lifting handle fitted - but it is beyond me to lift it. Perhaps as a consequence of my recent heart attack I’m losing strength - but the Commando pops up like a dream.

Is there a knack, or am I just too knackered?
Click to expand...
Taller shocks

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Ikonsuspension

Fitting & Adjustment Instructions for Ikon Stereodampers Type 7610 and 7614.For further Shock Absorber Specifications please see view
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Well, I never truly gelled with the T160, it’s nowhere near as nice as my Commando and I looked for an alternative. I have now px’ed it for a Z900RS which will now be my daily rider, if and when we get any favourable weather to suit it. Additionally, my wife insisted that I needed another Hayabusa as apart from 2023 I’ve had at least one in the garage every year since they came out in ‘99. I’ve had 5 previously in all versions, 1300, 1340, 1400, nitrous and turbo. This time it’s the limited edition, apparently only 300 worldwide and 25 in UK, 25th Anniversary. So a belated 70th birthday and early Christmas present.
T160 it is so damn heavy
T160 it is so damn heavy
T160 it is so damn heavy
 
Flatspot said:
I thought I’d finished working on the Trident and got it off the ramp, and what a struggle that was, it only wanted to slide across the surface. Finally I managed it and wheeled it outside so I could start it up and actually listen to it running properly.

Fine, I got the Commando out, View attachment 85953View attachment 85954and that as usual started first prod of the starter button and quickly settled down to a nice idle.

So, to the Trident, fuel on, tickled, ignition on, thumbed the button and it refuses to fire up. Oh buggerit I need to check what I’ve done to the ignition system as it was working the last time I checked.

But now to the real problem. I can not get it up into the centrestand. It’s a heavy bike granted, but I’ve had heavier, and none so awkward. Yes, I do have a lifting handle fitted - but it is beyond me to lift it. Perhaps as a consequence of my recent heart attack I’m losing strength - but the Commando pops up like a dream.

Is there a knack, or am I just too knackered?
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You should try a modern 900 triple... "ooooh, my aching back"
 
Rather than going to the expense of buying a T140 stand & welding bits onto it to make it suit the T160, why not just cut a section out of the existing stand & weld it back together, or am I missing something?
 
Matchless said:
Rather than going to the expense of buying a T140 stand & welding bits onto it to make it suit the T160, why not just cut a section out of the existing stand & weld it back together, or am I missing something?
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Good question. For some reason, maybe I'm not that bright, but I thought that the T160 stand was made from cast iron which I believed to be hard to weld.

It was only as I cut my old twisted centre stand up that I saw that it was made from steel! Doh!

Martyn, you dont have to weld the T140 stand to make it fit unless you don't want a stop plate fitted to your bike. You just have to spend 10 minutes with an electric file to reduce the stops a couple of mm to get it to work correctly.

Fitting the T140 centre stand has made my T160 really easy to get on the centre stand. They are certainly not easy with the standard ctr stand.
 
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Just wondering since I don't have a T160. My T150Vs are easier to put on the center stand than my Nortons. Any idea why the T160 is harder?
 
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