Split clutch push rod?

Yes I put my hands up Brain fart time
I have just been out to put it together to measure gap with feeler gauges sitting there looking dumb 4 steel plates one of which is the plate from RGM. So looked at gap I could just get my precision finger nail in so never bothered with feeler gauges as at the time thought plate was missing!

When all the plates are placed into basket with out the diaphragm spring it can see at very most 1mm of the teeth exposed on outer teeth of basket I suppose you could add 1mm by changing a plate from a 2 to a 3 mm but going to sort gearbox side as know problem is there.

Will keep you up to date with photos .

Cause of brain fart, Dad at hospital he OK but best friend's wife passed away so this experience is most stress relieving at present!
Looks like can't use oil mod by Dave in this bike as only 1/2 -1 thread showing don't want to mess around with this.

Will fit all the new parts tomorrow as see how it is

All best and thanks again!

BBM
PS my eyes are calibrated to measure mm and brain in imperial LOL!

Bigbossmonty said:

Looks like can't use oil mod by Dave in this bike as only 1/2 -1 thread showing don't want to mess around with this.

Click to expand...

It sticks in my mind that I had to remove the washer (#58, http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g10.html) under the main shaft nut to get enough room for Dave's seal. With the tab washer (#60) in place, there shouldn't be any worry about the nut coming loose. L.A.B.?

Nathan

Bigbossmonty said:

So looked at gap I could just get my precision finger nail in so never bothered with feeler gauges as at the time thought plate was missing!

When all the plates are placed into basket without the diaphragm spring it can see at very most 1mm of the teeth exposed on outer teeth of basket

Click to expand...

As the pressure plate is 'lower' by about 1mm it does suggest the stack is slightly low, but difficult to say without a more accurate spring-circlip measurement.

Note that the torquing the clutch centre nut to "70 lb. ft." as quoted in manuals runs the risk of breaking the clutch location circlip (060752) so use Loctite and torque the nut to 40 - 45 lb. ft.

Bigbossmonty said:

going to sort gearbox side as know problem is there.

Click to expand...

A few suggestions. Check the tiny roller sleeve (040065) is actually fitted inside the operating roller (040060). That the ball is 1/2" Dia., the operating arm is adjusted exactly in line with the cable entry and that the arm remains in the position shown in the diagram I posted previously during any clutch adjustment.

The manual states to back off the pushrod adjuster by "one full turn" (cable slack) which can be too much, so I suggest you back it off by 1/4 - 1/2 a turn at which point the lifter arm should just be free to move.

Nater_Potater said:

Bigbossmonty said:

Looks like can't use oil mod by Dave in this bike as only 1/2 -1 thread showing don't want to mess around with this.

Click to expand...

It sticks in my mind that I had to remove the washer (#58, http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g10.html) under the main shaft nut to get enough room for Dave's seal. With the tab washer (#60) in place, there shouldn't be any worry about the nut coming loose. L.A.B.?

Click to expand...

Yes, removal of the washer or some minor 'fettling' of the seal or clutch nut may be necessary (see the dynodave instructions part 2)

http://atlanticgreen.com/rodseal2e.htm

Cheers LAB

I was going to strip from clutch handle right down to actuator arm + ball set it all up as you suggested , route the new cable properly as I believe it's partial to blame seems stretched but I am enjoying it!
Regards oil seal will fettle it later if I need to lift stack
Cheers
BBM

Hi
Short note as I did a more detailed one but it disappeared
The split push rod did not have a ball bearing fitted and both rods were different one 6mm and the other 6.3mm.

Cable far to long and had a bad kink in it with in gearbox.

Fitted oilseal just to put fluids in it and put tank on

Thanks for all the help and advise

Cheers
BBM