Sooo what did I buy?

mean gene said:
? definitely the gear box The engine seems pretty clean and turns over freely. Unless something changers I'll risk starting engine and go from there. Is there something I should look for or listen for?
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Make sure that the oil path is functioning - before fueling it turn it over with kickstart and be sure oil is feeding the top end . Oil supply to top end is bled off the scavenge path at the return line between engine and oil tank . Remove banjo bolt at rocker box and watch for oil at banjo . This will also let you know that oil pump is circulating.
If compression is lacking check adjustment of exhaust valve lifter .
compression release is gained by a shat that crosses the exhaust rocker . This shaft has a flat milled on it where it crosses the rocker and the corner formed where the flat meets the cylindrical side of the shaft acts as a cam when the shaft is rotated , pushing on the rocker and raising the exhaust valve off it’s seat . All of this can be seen through the access plate on the rocker box.
Valve lash is nil - pushrods should be able to rotate when off the cam with no up/ down play .
I can help with setting timing if needed - I have forgotten whether it is set at full advance or retard but I will check .
I can send my phone number via PM ( conversation?) if you like .
LMK
 
Needed some motivation today. Put things together for pics. Now I'm depressed, LOTS of missing parts and question what is correct.



Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?
 
I see in your original pics that you have gearbox , toolbox , inner primary tinware . Do you have oil tank ?

As far as what’s correct I suppose that’s now up to you as to how far you want to take it . We know that the engine is not the correct one but I think it will work fine . When you figure out what you need you may have to source some things from the UK .
 
You've got a project to do.... Don't sweat the details and just do what comes naturally and it shall all work out for the better.... Don't know what you've got in it, but looks worth fixing up.... Be the optimist. I'd fix it anyway....
 
I have a bent up oil tank and have a painted one purchased from e-bay . The front break assembly is missing, the shoe's are there, drilled full of holes ,must have been "raced" LOL The gear box was assembled with a ball peen hammer. I think I will be happy making noise going around the neighborhood. They already think I'm a crazy old SOB!!!
 
Added more pieces just to figure what I need( LOTS ). Rear axle doesn't fit so I start looking it over. At first I thought the stub shaft was in the wrong side then I notice it has a cushion between break drum and hub. Breaks are not like any exploded view that I have. I guess this is how the entire project is going to go! You ask how I refer to me Norton - Frankenstein! If anyone recognizes the rear hub I would appreciate knowing. It's going on a rigid frame. 7 inch drum

Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?
 
Actually Bacon’s singles book does have serial numbers. 54xxx is late 1953. 4 indicates it’s an ES2 engine. The frame with girder forks is probably 1946 or earlier. The gearbox you have would be a match to the earlier frame. If you are putting a lot of money into this, make sure it’s something you want for yourself.
 
Really confused I read that after 1945 serial numbers for the engine had a letter prefix Without the prefix letter this would be like a 1930's Yea it's a "Frankenstein" It's just cool most people won't know what it is anyway​
 
mean gene said:
Really confused I read that after 1945 serial numbers for the engine had a letter prefix Without the prefix letter this would be like a 1930's Yea it's a "Frankenstein" It's just cool most people won't know what it is anyway​
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The Norton numbering / model system is nothing if not confusing .
The late Dr. ” Norton George” Cohen once posed the question -
“ Who designed the Norton numbering system ? “ and then answered it in the same breath - “ A total idiot .”
I believe you are correct with regards to the letter prefix - I will double check my 1950 ES2 tomorrow as well as references tomorrow and get back to all on this .
 
I helped with the NOC’s factory records project. As given 1000 hand written numbers to convert to excel files. Mine were from 1947 and the year designator was “B” before the model number 1 for Big 4’ 2 for 16H, 3 for model 18 and 4 for ES2. From some Norton singles I’ve seen in person, the letter for year is not always stamped On the engine. The magneto you have shows 11 53 which fits with 54xxx engine that is an ES2 from 1953. All the other parts…frame and gearbox are likely from 1946….look for an “A” stamped close to the frame number. The last year for girder forks was 1946.
 
Thanks "B" on frame and casting number on transmission is 45-49 Makes sense on engine it also QQ for the follower/ lifter changes. Any detailed pics of these years would be appreciated, many parts are missing. The front break backing plate is not for a girder and is 7 inches diameter. Foot pegs are missing and most attaching studs/bolts which I can make. No show bike but I'll have fun with it thanks again
 
mean gene said:
Thanks "B" on frame and casting number on transmission is 45-49 Makes sense on engine it also QQ for the follower/ lifter changes. Any detailed pics of these years would be appreciated, many parts are missing. The front break backing plate is not for a girder and is 7 inches diameter. Foot pegs are missing and most attaching studs/bolts which I can make. No show bike but I'll have fun with it thanks again
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I don't know if you saw these on the Bay ?
This guy is a bit pricey and he doesn't always get the dates correct, but most of his stuff pretty good with a solid return policy.

Might be best to wait for the swap meet at Oley in the spring to get better prices.

Mike
Sooo what did I buy?
Sooo what did I buy?
 
I guess the thread should be renamed Why did I buy this, a real lesson why not to buy something you know nothing about! Waiting for some parts I thought I'd remove and polish the timing and cam cover. Well! The oil pump was cracked there the studs go thru! Also there was no play in the gears. When I placed it in my rubber vise jaws it literary crumbled! $299 for a new pump. Grabbed a spare used pump from a 750. They looked very similar with the exception of the gear drive was on the opposite side. Well there's more to it then switching the tops... All gears are the same diameter but width's are different. Scavenge gears were the same in all dimensions Shafts are also the same. The drive shaft gear is thicker in 750. So I turned the width of this gear to match the top 750 gear, .2503 being the feed side which increased capacity from .187 width to .2503 approx 40%. Put some 600 grit lapping compound on all gears mesh area , gave them a spin . They mated perfectly. Checked gear clearance between top and bottom plates. Washed everything up and put it in! Only time will tell.


Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?
 
First test ride! what a hand full! Steered like it has a flat tire. Made new bushings for girder and reassembled. Found that the neck bearings were also to tight. Sent seat out for leather redo. Still a couple parts missing , I'll find them sooner or later! Sorry I couldn't get video to down load. Bitza is alive!!Sooo what did I buy?Sooo what did I buy?
 
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mean gene said:
First test ride! what a hand full! Steered like it has a flat tire. Made new bushings for girder and reassembled. Found that the neck bearings were also to tight. Sent seat out for leather redo. Still a couple parts missing , I'll find them sooner or later! Sorry I couldn't get video to down load. Bitza is alive!!View attachment 98742View attachment 98743
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Nice.

But shame on you for not posting along the way!
 

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