Lucas Industries exists but I don't know if it is the original.
It may not have started as Lucas Industries but the legal entity that Joe Lucas first started 'Joseph Lucas Ltd' will be down a legal trail of name changes leading to Lucas Industries.
Lucas Industries exists but I don't know if it is the original.
Definitely green.Do you remember if the box was green or red? The current red boxes have bubble wrap around the stator and the box is still has about 1/2" of head space. I don't know the details, but I think the other Lucas uses green and made Wassell stop, hence the switch to red which seem to all be a little oversized. My only fault with the current Lucas stators is the sleeving is not molded to the wire - that's good in that the cable is much more flexible, but bad in that it's bigger around so it can be hard to get started through the grommet.
I would definitely go with the three phase stator . It will give you a more consistent power supply especially at lower rpm which will certainly be a big factor if you are using heated clothing.OK, shop is offering to cover costs of anything I feel needs replacing plus compensate for my hours.This is fair as if he was doing the work he'd need to cover transport back to his shop plus his labour hours and parts.
I've had a careful look at the state of rotor and stator. Appears to be a slight notch in the woodroffe keyway inside rotor plus the gouging on the face surface, so will replace. Stator has a visible crack on the inner bore parallel to the crank, so it's got to go too.
Thinking 3-phase might be nice to have for my urban environment, though I have LED headlight/tailight, so keeping batt happy has not been an issue. Which stator would be best to run my heated jacket liner? highest output 2 wire single phase or 3 wire 3 phase?
Got them the list of items to order with a 3-phase 14.5 Amp RM24 stator.I would definitely go with the three phase stator . It will give you a more consistent power supply especially at lower rpm which will certainly be a big factor if you are using heated clothing.
Good to see that the shop are being fair with you ..
Yes already have the TS MOSFET R/R sourced from Mr. Marsh last year.If you get a HO three phase stator, then you should also get a TS MOSFET reg/rect. Or a Shindengen.
Required reading.
Your Bike’s Charging System - Regulator/Rectifiers and Alternators
A walk through how the charging system works on a classic brit bike with a deep dive into different aftermarket regulator/rectifiersgranttiller.com
Carry on.Yes already have the TS MOSFET R/R sourced from Mr. Marsh last year.
If you get a HO three phase stator, then you should also get a TS MOSFET reg/rect. Or a Shindengen.
They can be and I sometimes do, but I put a fuse in line with the black wire when I do.Can the power leads be connected to the battery directly ? (If the Positive is earthed to the frame its the same thing in a rounder-bout sort of way ?)
With the conduit over both wires as delivered it seems that is the intended way perhaps. (battery direct and won't catch on fire or some other calamity ?)
View attachment 85043
Looking for net wisdom to proceed further.
Before lapping, sanding, deburring, filing, polishing, fitting, fettling & all that, stop. Get some measuring tools. Measure the I.D. of the rotor and post it here.Ok, recieved new stator and rotor. Both Lucas. Plus ancillary parts.
I have spent today checking inner cover fitment, final drive sprocket torque, new timing scale installed and accuracy checked.
Then I hit an issue: new rotor refuses to go on the crankshaft. Gets maybe a few mm on then jams solid, very hard to remove it. This is without woodroffe key as a test fit. Original goes on nicely with no force needed. Have tried running some lapping compound on the inside of rotor with a buffing pad on a dremel. No progress.
Looking for net wisdom to proceed further.
Reading this thread, I wonder which "Lucas" parts you got. The "green" 'un or the "red" 'un ?Ok, recieved new stator and rotor. Both Lucas. Plus ancillary parts.