Restoring my Dads Fastback

For example this is my ‘70 750 S

Nice work. Can’t wait for a first start video. It’s good to know that those motorcycle lifts are worldwide. I love mine.

illf8ed said:

Had never seen an ID tag with model type on it. Where the 750S is usually has a month and year of build.

Click to expand...

Interesting! But I am very sure about one thing: standardization was definitly not a strength of british engineers
(thinking about the 1000 different threads and diameters they put in a single motorcycle, in general the insanity of measurement in inch)

Scout63 said:

Nice work. Can’t wait for a first start video. It’s good to know that those motorcycle lifts are worldwide. I love mine.

Click to expand...

I definitly share that love. It makes life much easier! Best investment in a while

Yes many inconsistencies in production and records. 131257 is reported to be the first 750S built Mar1969. Your ID plate shows London so would have to have been made before July 1969 when production moved to Andover. My 69 S has the same ID plate.

Finally my beloved Norton is back on the road
The first 400km/250mi I rode in the last couple of days have been suprisingly complication-free.



To sum the things that feel different after the restauration:

- CNW frontbrake: thought it was expensive at first - but it is worth every cent. Super reliable, controlable braking power
- Ignition: I replaced the original coils for a CNW Single Coil --> kick starts perfectly now, much better than before
- Kegler swing arm modification: much more predictable handling
- new (MK3) Isolastic, CNW headsteady: nearly no vibration >3000rpm + more stable handling

I polished quite some aluminium parts etc. but I decided to leave some other parts (like the gas tank) with the patina they got over the years. The bike has a history - and I think it is right that this can be seen. The photos don`t really show that - but that`s probably only important to me

One thing that I left untouched so far is the suspension: I`m very lightweight (70kg/155lbs inkl riding-gear) - but I like riding very sportative.
Now that the frame seems much stiffer I really feel how much room for improvement there is...
The KONI rear shocks that I have can`t be serviced anymore: from what I researched the IKONs seem a good replacement. Is there anything better on the market?
There are obiviously some different generations of the roadholder forks, and to be honest: I don`t even know what exact type I have...
Can you guys tell me (`69 Fastback)? And even more important: can you tell me how to make the best roadholder possible? Are the Lansdowne dampers the way to go? Combined with progressive springs? I`m very courious what you guys think

Simon

Your bike looks excellent, proud and very tastefully done. You've got a great Norton there.
I have new IKON albions and Landsdownes on my bike. Still trying to pinpoint the Landsdowne setting as the roads around here are terrible. The IKONS were an immediate improvement, planted the rear of the bike just how I like, no doubt most new performance shocks would be a great upgrade.
Enjoy the ride and post some more photos!

Stellar machine, and in my favorite flavor. Justice has been served..... More pics please.

Very good!

simonha said:

The KONI rear shocks that I have can`t be serviced anymore: from what I researched the IKONs seem a good replacement. Is there anything better on the market?

Click to expand...

There is a comprehensive thread here. I have ICONs and they work well in combination with my Lansdowne dampers. However, since you are in EU you may find it as good and more economical with Maxton or some other.

simonha said:

There are obiviously some different generations of the roadholder forks, and to be honest: I don`t even know what exact type I have...
Can you guys tell me (`69 Fastback)? And even more important: can you tell me how to make the best roadholder possible? Are the Lansdowne dampers the way to go? Combined with progressive springs? I`m very courious what you guys think

Click to expand...

There is difference in the fork trees between 750 and 850, and a different rake. Afaik, the fork tubes and internals are the same.

Lansdowne dampers are a nice improvement from stock and relatively inexpensive. Do not use progressive springs with them, they wont work as well as good single rate springs. I (and others) have tried both, and the original maker of them said as much as well.

But, these dampers would also be VERY nice.


Along with these that he also makes

Very nice. I noticed this thread was from last year, glad you updated it @simonha .

I'm glad he did because I was wondering how his project had gone.

Just a query.... aren't Lansdowne inserts no longer available? Or has someone else picked up manufacture?

EstuaryBoy said:

Just a query.... aren't Lansdowne inserts no longer available? Or has someone else picked up manufacture?

Click to expand...

Don Pender (Madass140 on here) picked up the manufacture from the family of John Bould who sadly passed away.

Very nice simohha. What have you done with the kickstart lever? It appears to be pointing to the front.

DogT said:

Very nice simohha. What have you done with the kickstart lever? It appears to be pointing to the front.

Click to expand...

It is a RGM T160-style lever.

During the first +-600mi I didnt really rev up to run in the engine. Now, after some more miles and a oil change I noticed that there is a lack of power. Especially in the range of 3000-4000rpm there is less power. Somewhere >4500rpm the power comes back - but still less than I had before the revision. I`m not a pro with that - but I`d say that the carbs are well tuned. If I had to put a number on it I would guess that there is 25-30% less torque.
I dont really have an explanation yet. I changed the original air filter to the K&N dual "high-flow" air filter for amals.
I`m not 100% sure about the ignition timing - as the timing scale I have doesn`t fit as good as I would want it to. Could that be an explanation?


Thank you for your advice about the fork and the dampers. I now ordered the Lansdowne dampers and a NYCNorton-bushing kit as well a pair of IKON 7610-1653 SP9 with a slightly lighter spring (214). I`m really looking forwards to seeing how this performs

Beautiful bike !! great look....low bars roadster seat and BRG fastback tank.....sexy !

Pull the spark plugs out of the bike. What do they look like?? 3- 4,000 sounds like a needle jet/needle height range issue, which changing the needle clip position could change for the better,.... IF you know which way to go with the change... (look at the spark plugs for a clue)

simonha said:

During the first +-600mi I didnt really rev up to run in the engine. Now, after some more miles and a oil change I noticed that there is a lack of power. Especially in the range of 3000-4000rpm there is less power. Somewhere >4500rpm the power comes back - but still less than I had before the revision. I`m not a pro with that - but I`d say that the carbs are well tuned. If I had to put a number on it I would guess that there is 25-30% less torque.
I dont really have an explanation yet. I changed the original air filter to the K&N dual "high-flow" air filter for amals.
I`m not 100% sure about the ignition timing - as the timing scale I have doesn`t fit as good as I would want it to. Could that be an explanation?


Thank you for your advice about the fork and the dampers. I now ordered the Lansdowne dampers and a NYCNorton-bushing kit as well a pair of IKON 7610-1653 SP9 with a slightly lighter spring (214). I`m really looking forwards to seeing how this performs

Click to expand...

Put the shocks on first, and get them set up so they are functioning well. See the recent threads on Ohlins shocks and steering dampers.

Then after they feel good, add the Lansdowne dampers. Make sure you dont use progressive fork springs.