Advice for new Commando owner (2021)

Nortorious said:
Hey @L.A.B. and @gortnipper , did I get this right? I rerouted the brake cable and wanted to make sure I didn't get it wrong.
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Yes, that's how it is in every factory picture where it's visible...
Example

..., however, I should mention (before anyone else does) there was a late NVT Service Bulletin stating that the cable should be routed between the two exhaust plates that are attached to the Z-plate to prevent chafing but that seems to have been intended for black cap/bean can exhaust plates where the cable would not pass between the AV mounts...
www.accessnorton.com

brake cable routing

www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

If the cable is routed between the plates then the exhaust stud is likely to damage the cable sheathing so, in my opinion, the routing according to the Service Bulletin was not intended for a Commando with peashooter mounting plates.

Roadster with Peashooters - Rear Brake Cable

There have been threads on this subject before, but with different solutions, none of which I find satisfying. The rear brake cable when installed on a Roadster with peashooters, interferes with the silencer mount bracket (06.1720) as shown in the first picture. That's a brand new cable from...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
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Welcome, you will find this site exceeding helpful, but do cross check any advice before spending your time and money.

Never forget that this YOUR bike when it comes to what you add or subtract from it, just don't compromise safety.

Given the travel history of your new ride by the PO, I suggest that ask the Commando riders for jetting suggestions at the range of altitude you intend to ride at generally.

Best.
 
RoadScholar said:
Welcome, you will find this site exceeding helpful, but do cross check any advice before spending your time and money.

Never forget that this YOUR bike when it comes to what you add or subtract from it, just don't compromise safety.

Given the travel history of your new ride by the PO, I suggest that ask the Commando riders for jetting suggestions at the range of altitude you intend to ride at generally.

Best.
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Thank you! I asked that exact question to the Denver Norton shop, Vintage Twins, (the OTHER Colorado Norton guys) and we swapped out my jets from 260 to 190 so the fuel mix wasn't so rich. Runs perfectly now. They're great people down at Vintage Twins.

Got new tires too, maintained the brakes, and fixed a few other odds and ends.. the rear brake light indicator switch was busted, etc.

Now it's on to the expensive stuff that I'm considering. The cNw Brembo brake, e-start, and rear sets.

Good advice on cross checking. There can certainly be differing opinions here.
 
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my Mk2a which originally had the 2 black cap silencers had the cable running between the plates when I purchased it. I’ve changed it to the ‘normal‘ way, which is where it had previously been I reckon looking at the slight wear imprint.

I also added the additional brake lever spring to stop the lever from dropping if the cable should snap.
 
Torontonian said:
Nice bike.
I don't much see on the list any roller layshaft conversion.
This to me is critically important for any Norton Motorbike.
Enjoy.
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Sometimes someone suggests something to me and I think they are messing with me. "You have to do the Tomaselli super pratic" and I have to Google it to see if it's a real thing. Such was the case with your suggestion. The roller layshaft conversion..

My gears shift like butter and neutral is found easily. I'm hesitant to open it up. What's the quickest way to see if the conversion was already done? Thanks!
 
Nortorious said:
Sometimes someone suggests something to me and I think they are messing with me. "You have to do the Tomaselli super pratic" and I have to Google it to see if it's a real thing. Such was the case with your suggestion. The roller layshaft conversion..

My gears shift like butter and neutral is found easily. I'm hesitant to open it up. What's the quickest way to see if the conversion was already done? Thanks!
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Well if the kicker starts doing wierd behaviour like going down lower then coming up and slapping the back of your calf then consider yourself lucky as imminent failure and locked up rear wheel might be the next thing to occur and possibly change your day / life. I don't mess with you. If you want to check for this I suggest calling up the seller and asking nicely if it was done. If not done.... you will be diving into the far back lower end of the gearbox for the change. Lots of help here to do that as in other search topic threads. L.A.B. is correct. Contact the seller.
 
" (the OTHER Colorado Norton guys) and we swapped out my jets from 260 to 190 so the fuel mix wasn't so rich."

That sounds much too lean. I run 240's with bike at 6400 ft above sea level in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. I ran 220's when we lived in Mexico City - 7400ft. I'd be concerned about being at more than 3/4 throttle with that jetting. But do a plug chop test to be sure.
 
Nortorious said:
Sometimes someone suggests something to me and I think they are messing with me. "You have to do the Tomaselli super pratic" and I have to Google it to see if it's a real thing. Such was the case with your suggestion. The roller layshaft conversion..

My gears shift like butter and neutral is found easily. I'm hesitant to open it up. What's the quickest way to see if the conversion was already done? Thanks!
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From your list of work done, post #1:
"Out cover machined to accept MKIII gearshift and kickstart shaft seals
Stock 4 speed
Superblend bearing conversion"

That last line may mean the gb roller bearing, as previously in the list superblend crank bearing were stated.

Btw, some long time experts recommend non roller for layshaft and to use an upgraded phenolic cage ball bear, as per Mick Hemmings excellent dvd on gb rebuilds.
 
Well, now you guys have me feeling paranoid about my gearbox. The odometer only has 2500ish miles on it, and the engine looks rebuilt or relatively new. Gearing switches smooth and no slapping of my calves when I kick it over. Sometimes however, as I prime the engine before turning on the ignition to kick it over - by kicking it over with the ignition off a couple times, I feel and hear a click in the kick arm. Not sure what this might be. It isn't often at all, just on occasion it does this. Any ideas?
 
Starvingphotog said:
Gearing switches smooth and no slapping of my calves when I kick it over.
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The kickstart lever swinging down on its own and flying back to tap you on the calf happens whilst you are riding, usually under acceleration and is a fairly reliable indication that the layshaft drive-side ball bearing is beginning to break up although the bearing has been known to fail with no warning at all. The bearing breaking up can result in the rear wheel locking up solid at whatever speed it happens and pulling the clutch lever won't free the wheel.

Layshaft bearing question on 1970 750S

I have read all the dire warnngs about layshaft bearing failure to the point where i am starting to be paranoid about my rear wheel locking up and spelling the end of my short lived Norton ownership.There are no symptoms to date of it failing .i.e kickstart falling down . Ive read the gearbox...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

Starvingphotog said:
Sometimes however, as I prime the engine before turning on the ignition to kick it over - by kicking it over with the ignition off a couple times, I feel and hear a click in the kick arm. Not sure what this might be. It isn't often at all, just on occasion it does this. Any ideas?
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If it happens as you push down on the lever then it's probably caused by the ratchet pawl not fully engaging with the kickstart gear so the pawl jumps to the next tooth.
 
Thanks for this reply LAB. This is helpful, especially the clarification of the kickstart lever popping up when riding. I'm going to try and investigate with the previous owner if the gearbox was serviced during his ownership. Also I'm glad the kickstart lever click doesn't sound like something serious, or that is failing. Again, it only happens on a infrequent occasions.
 
Regarding the gearbox layshaft bearing, how can you tell if the upgrade has been made when you strip the box?
 
Yorkie said:
Regarding the gearbox layshaft bearing, how can you tell if the upgrade has been made when you strip the box?
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It will be an NJ203E roller bearing, not a 6203 ball bearing.
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

The alternative to the roller bearing that could also be found is the 'Hemmings' FAG 6203TB.P63 (or P6.C3) phenolic cage ball bearing.

FAG 6203-TB-P6-C3 Deep Groove Ball Bearings 6203.TB.HP63/FAG | Cromwell Tools

Deep groove ball bearings are versatile self-retaining bearings with solid outer rings inner rings and ball and cage assemblies. These products which are of simple design robust in 6203.TB.HP63/FAG | Cromwell Tools
www.cromwell.co.uk www.cromwell.co.uk
 
I changed out the layshaft bearing on my '74 850 at 22,000 miles, not because anything was wrong, but for worrying about
the consequences if I didn't. Turns out it did have the notorious Portuguese bearing, but the bearing was
in perfectly good condition. While in there I did find a bush that was breaking up and a bent shifter arm (?). All is well now.
 
Tornado said:
From your list of work done, post #1:
"Out cover machined to accept MKIII gearshift and kickstart shaft seals
Stock 4 speed
Superblend bearing conversion"

That last line may mean the gb roller bearing, as previously in the list superblend crank bearing were stated.

Btw, some long time experts recommend non roller for layshaft and to use an upgraded phenolic cage ball bear, as per Mick Hemmings excellent dvd on gb rebuilds.
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I've been digging through my records, which fortunately the previous owners kept. The owner who did a lot of great work on this bike was Mike Grant. I bet he spent some time on this forum.. He got rear sets too, which I'm bummed to say are gone now.

I found this receipt below as part of a gearbox rebuild in 1999. Bottom left, layshaft ball bearing, $31.95.

The PO did an engine rebuild for $1,841 and bike assembly, gearbox rebuild, and other misc for $3,627 with a mechanic called Insane Bike Collector in Austin. The receipts in all totaled over $11,000 for just that owner's list of improvements.

Advice for new Commando owner (2021)
 
Nortorious said:
I found this receipt below as part of a gearbox rebuild in 1999. Bottom left, layshaft ball bearing, $31.95.
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Above that, it looks like it says "Layshaft roller bearing, $49.8?". I'd guess the "layshaft ball bearing" is the timing side mainshaft ball bearing?
 
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