Proper Lubricant for Stainless Steel Studs and Nuts

Seems you have all the info you need right there…

To your point Dan about copper based lubricants there are conflicting product articles on the net this one .....and

Permatex® Copper Anti-Seize was designed specifically for use on stainless steel or similar alloys. It protects threaded fasteners and fittings from heat, freezing, seizure or galling at temperatures from -30°F to 1800°F. It may be used on pumps, sensors, valves, nuts and bolts where extreme conditions of heat exist.
https://cdn3.evostore.io › fus...PDF
Technical Data Sheet Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant
....This one
Another disadvantage is that copper is known to promote galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion can cause components to weld together because copper-based lubricants can accelerate the corrosion process.17/05/2022
https://www.bizol.com › blog › cop...
Copper grease – tried and tested or outdated and obsolete? - BIZOL

I'll stick with the oil for now...

Fast Eddie said:

Seems you have all the info you need right there…

Click to expand...

Yes and it was information posted in this thread that lead me to the pertinent data.

Engine studs nickel. Anything else, molybdenum

I have to cross a road that floods on about half of the high tides each month. It's pretty much impossible to avoid salt getting thrown up off the road, whether damp or dry. I'm constantly washing my bikes. I use copper ease. Have done for some time. No problems, so far.

I also get complete protection from ACF50 on exposed alloys, like engine cases and forks. A quick wipe over every 6 to 8 weeks. A side benefit is I find it protects the fastenings ive not previously had cause to remove. I've ridden my Commando through 2 winters here and it's as good as ever.

Another endorsement for ARP Ultra Torque

ILLF8ED said:

Buchanan’s supplied a small bottle of glycerine with my stainless spokes and nipples.

Click to expand...

Not glycerine - a very high zinc lubricant, for high load industrial gears/differentials.

B+Bogus said:

I can see Blackpool Tower from the top of my road. 15 miles away, but close enough

Click to expand...

I can see it from my back bedroom window

KiwiShane said:

I live 75 paces from the sea...stainless fittings for me...the building code also here won't allow anything but S/S

Click to expand...

We've got so much salt we sell the damn stuff

I know it sounds crazy but Lanolin oil based corrosion inhibitors work really well to keep the sodium chloride out..Great for marine equipment

KiwiShane said:

I know it sounds crazy but Lanolin oil based corrosion inhibitors work really well to keep the sodium chloride out..Great for marine equipment

Click to expand...

It must work, I've never seen a rusty sheep

my 2-cents -- whatever anti-seize you choose, an important factor with stainless is NOT to over-torqure the fasteners and adjust the torque accordingly.

joe czech said:

my 2-cents -- whatever anti-seize you choose, an important factor with stainless is NOT to over-torqure the fasteners and adjust the torque accordingly.

Click to expand...

There are lots of huge debates about this if you do a search. Probably second place to oil threads !

People have their own ways that work, and I have no desire to change or challenge these, but personally, I use standard torque settings and have never had an issue.

Maybe if assembling something as delicate as a Swiss watch, or something on a Caterpillar with extremely high torque, then this stuff matters and corrections should be made. But with the torques we use on these crude old lumps, I believe consistency matters way more than the precise figure itself.

I believe that the only way to have ‘dry’ threads is to scrupulously clean both threads with alcohol and then dry them. Unless you do this, there will be residual oil of some kind on the threads, even new ones. How much, and how slippery, could vary immensely, therefore varying the torque applied. So, the only way to achieve constancy is by either ensuring scrupulously clean, dry threads or by using a thread lube.

As dry threads are a recipe for disaster with regards maintenance, lube is the best option.

And remember, threadlock is also lube.

All only IMHO of course.

Fast Eddie said:

.......So, the only way to achieve constancy is by either ensuring scrupulously clean, dry threads or by using a thread lube.

Click to expand...

With the exception of rod bolts, or other bolts where you measure stretch rather than torque......

And regarding Torque, I suspect very few of us possess a Torque wrench that has the accuracy we seek in the settings!

Even torque across a series of fasteners to a setting 'close' to the primary recommendation is probably the best that most of us can do!