project

got a bit further on the seat pan/ tail piece today

The seat is an Ebay special NOS for a 2003 Triumph Daytona. It is made in Italy and weighs maybe 2 pounds, plastic base.

I sat on one of these at a dealership and found it really comfortable. I also sat on a variety of new or nearly new Jap sport bikes, they were all torture. I thought the GSXR was the worst.

Triumph builds some really fast machines but still finds a way to make them comfortable. I'm copying the Tirumph Daytona riding position as much as possible. This meant breaking the tack welds on the rear sets and moving them down about 3".

The seat also fit well to the shape of the tubes that I had already in place, had the desired taper in.

There is adequate room under the cowl for a lightweight dry cell Ballistic Battery, turn signal module, voltage reg and anything else needed. The seat will be quick detachable for access to the electrics.

Will the nose of the seat body be faired for it's lines to flow into the tank's lines?

(or, what will happen to those two flaps?)

Those two flaps will get cut at an angle to match up with the back end of the tank. I will cut them 1/4"long, then hem that cut end back on itself.
This am I was about to cut the flaps to match the angle on the styro tank pattern when I realized that I might change that back end a little.
As tempting as it is to trim those dangling flaps right now, it is best to leave them on there until the tank is built.

Know its not standard , but a couple of knee reliefs might be a good idea . Crayon line on styro over forelegs of seated pilot .
Thus the inch on so releifs could flow into seat pad . Though a strip of 1/4 in. foam would do just as well for a seat pad .

Hi Matt

Theres nothing standard on this thing, its a creation, so anything goes.
Not sure what you mean tho.
Wouldnt happen to have a photo?

I polished it up this afternoon. The look of the finish after a wash in the Ewheel is really perfect, some shine, not too much. This full on polish is more than I would ideally go for.

Once there are welds involved, then grinding and sanding happens and the washed finish is partly gone. In order to finish off the sanded area it was either polish the thing or paint it and I am not a good painter.

If the whole bike gets polished like this I may need some sort of an escort Vehicle travelling in front to warn oncoming motorists.

' REMOVED ' a trvesty of logic . Bent Tank , Bent Frame . ' A investment ' !! ?? restoration of ridgid T bird . :shock:

Apologies for this on your ' piece of paper ' . Just the ' Knee cut outs ' , id bring the top edge flowing right back ,
not down at the rear as here .
But .
Seat length . ? might be barking up the wrong tree , if youre doing a ' tank to seat filler ' .

Could always bring tank pattern rear edge further aft to suit the seat . Just kidding about the 1/4 in foam . Hard Arsed
20 yr old types only for that , or sprint bikes .I tend to get the ' saddle ' as low as itll fit , Dont like the High ones you
often see these days , GP bikes etc .

The Olde EGLI's were primarilly ' Hill Climb ' configureation , as raceing was banned in Switzerland after the 1955 LeMans Wipe Out .

Thanks for the photo Matt, I might add those indents to the shape. The Egli tank form I have hrer is pretty slim, only about 8 inches wide at the back. Happily, thecseat is also 8" wide at the front, so they blend together like they were made for each other.


I think the foam on Jos den Oudens great looking Egli isnt much more than 1/4" at the forward part of the seat.
And those Manxseats. What are they, about an inch maybe.

Im a little past all that, gotta have abit ofcomfort on there. After riding it for awhile I might change the clipons for flat bars or even low rise, will see how the back and wrists stand up to it.
Glen

hi
i am building a vincent twin from new bits old bits and home made bits
thinking of making an ariginal bike a norvin and a egli
egli looks like being the quickes and the best so will make this the first one
any chance of getting dimentions of your cylinder head mounts and any other sizes
that would help

thanks
graham wood

Hi Graham

I would strongly recommend against building the frame from anyone's provided dimensions, my own included!

Best is to obtain the engine first then build around it, that way you know the frame will fit.
I did a lot of research on Eglis before building. I found many different versions of that frame.

In fact, I have a beautiful scale drawing of the Egli twin shock swing arm- trouble is the dimensions are wrong for the offset required with the Vincent motor. My friend in Norway built his swingarm based on this drawing and had to throw the swing arm away to start again. He sent me the drawing so that I would avoid that pitfall in the event I encountered the drawing in my research.

For my swing arm I made up all the dimensions and the design. We don't really know how it will work yet!

One of the well known (and well reputed) Egli frame builders in the UK custom built a Stainless Egli for an american customer a few years ago. He has a jig for the frames
They waited two years for the frame to be done. When it arrived, the Vincent motor wouldn't fit into it!
The builder had to fly to the US and rework the frame in order to make it useable. I'm not sure why it didn't work when coming off a proven jig. My guess is that the switch to SS made for movement and tension after welding that the jig did not allow for.

Trying to build without a jig or without a motor as jig (what I used) just from a set of numbers would not be a good plan IMHO.

Once you have the motor, I can provide you with the dimensions I used for tank length, motor height, fork angle etc . For the swingarm, unless you are replicating the setup I have, you would be best to copy the lower legs of the Vincent UFM, that is what Egli did. He just took away the monoshock setup and replaced it with twin shocks. thinking it was a step forward.
Im not sure it was so I put the monoshock back in, but changed somewhat from the original Vincent geometry.

Glen

Got the front fender mounts made up and on today. With the Fender so close to the tire I was struggling to come up with a good way to attach without running into clearance problems on bolt heads or rivet heads. In the end I made up some brackets in 5052 al , fitted them accurately to the fender hem, then carefully welded the bracket top edge to the fender on the inside edge. I say carefully becaused the Fender is only .050 thick, so it would be easy to burn thru, then have to start all over again making a new fender.

The first plan was to utilize the little flat raised area on the inside of the fork slider as the complete mount for the bracket. There is one threaded hole there at the back already, and I thought I could drill and tap another at the front of this raised area. Upon further consideration I realized that the fork slider is about 4MM thick and maybe 6mm thick in the raised area, not really enough to drill and tap into without danger of breaking thru and ruining the slider.

A better option was to use the one existing thread hole at the back of the raised area, then make up a vertical piece of 5/8" wide by 3/16" thick 5052 bar to pick up the two lower threaded lugs already in place. I welded the top of these bars to the bracket inside.
The result is a really sturdy mount.
Might leave the finish on the fender as is- right out of the Ewheel with a visible Ewheel pattern on it. The ewheel puts a nice shine on Al but nothing like the high polish most store bought fenders come with. This looks hand done which it is!

Glen

Looks very purposeful, wonder what Phil would say if he were still here?
Graeme

Good question.

I know he was not one to sit on his laurels, so he might have been ok with it. Combined with all the Modified new Vincent parts from Terry Prince, it is getting a fair way off the original, or even the original Egli. Some in the club really like it and some are not so sure....

Glen

I think it looks very cranky, Phil might offer you a job?

thanks

I would take that job in a minute....

Made a start on the tank today.
In the same way that a cup of coffee tastes better out of a real mug rather than styrofoam, I think this tank is going to look a lot nicer in aluminum than in styrofoam.

hi glen
how thick is the ally on that tank it needs to be thick enough so you dont blow a hole in it when welding
how wides the rear wheal looks about 5.5"
ive just ordered some en16t bar to make cylinder head studs
just got the tips in for threads so will be threading on cnc lathe
got a pair of heads coming at end of week

graham

Hi Graham.

Where did you get the heads from?

The tank is. 063, thick enough for welding but thin enough for forming. I made the rear cowl in the photo further back from even thinner stuff, .050. That was also quite weldable with pulsed tig, noproblems blowing thru
The rear tire is about 7"wide, the fender is 9.

Glen

just noticed the bit about heads did not see it the other day
they are coming from goden engineering westmaling kent

Would those be made to the standard Vincent pattern, as in for 84 mm bore setup?

Glen