Production Racer Head Steady Setup?

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hudson29 said:
This might be some trouble to setup now but I still have hopes that it will work well and make a nice improvement in the handling of this old Norton.

Vintage Paul
Click to expand...
May improve your handling but will be the quickest way to turn your Commando into a Kango hammer.
 
That is what I've heard from over a decade now, only racers and cops that are paid to take it, used the extra isolastic. Not sure about the 3rd one Dreer did under the frame. Factory had to remove supporting rubber area to tame vibes under 2000 zone. It looks like the right stuff alright but there are two known ways to avoid it, rod link and rub plates. Ben English for one spent untold turmoils to index everything that could influence its obnoxious transmission, with his own self doubts of im-competence to suffer with each time he dove back into it some other way till nothing else remained for him but face facts and toss it out as dead end lesion. Best wishes on your success and enjoyment.
 
snakehips said:
May improve your handling but will be the quickest way to turn your Commando into a Kango hammer.
Click to expand...
I don't know exactly what a Kango Hammer might be but it doesn't sound good . . .

Vintage Paul
 
hobot said:
That is what I've heard from over a decade now, only racers and cops that are paid to take it, used the extra isolastic. Not sure about the 3rd one Dreer did under the frame. Factory had to remove supporting rubber area to tame vibes under 2000 zone. It looks like the right stuff alright but there are two known ways to avoid it, rod link and rub plates. Ben English for one spent untold turmoils to index everything that could influence its obnoxious transmission, with his own self doubts of im-competence to suffer with each time he dove back into it some other way till nothing else remained for him but face facts and toss it out as dead end lesion. Best wishes on your success and enjoyment.
Click to expand...

I knew Ben from the old Brit Iron days back in the '90s. How is he doing these days? What head steady did he wind up with?

Vintage Paul
 
Milwaukee Kango Hex Demolition Hammer 11kg. #KANGO 900K

Production Racer Head Steady Setup?

Applications
• Cutting/Breaking concrete, masonry, brick or asphalt.
• Toothing of walls
• Floor cleaning/ Scraping.
• Tamping concrete, ballast or soil.
• Vibrating.
• Dry Packing.
• Driving earthing electrodes.
• AVS (Anti Vibration Technology) & Softgrip on all handles.
 
hobot said:
Milwaukee Kango Hex Demolition Hammer 11kg. #KANGO 900K

Production Racer Head Steady Setup?

Applications
• Cutting/Breaking concrete, masonry, brick or asphalt.
• Toothing of walls
• Floor cleaning/ Scraping.
• Tamping concrete, ballast or soil.
• Vibrating.
• Dry Packing.
• Driving earthing electrodes.
• AVS (Anti Vibration Technology) & Softgrip on all handles.
Click to expand...

Dear oh dear, that's not the thing at all. I had something more like a "Trixey" head steady in mind - something that gives stable handling and a good ride.

Vintage Paul
 
NO NO NO, Trixie is plain Jane factory Combat all the way for a baseline reality check on what everyone else suffers with and thinks is the innate state of a smooth operator. Trixie disappears 30 ish mph in 4th, bit still transmits engine reasonace interacting with road loads though isolastics but not basic engine vibes. Tri roddage Ms Peel flat disappeared at 20ish/2000 rpm. A whole bunch of annoying little jiggles and hums is actually the road texture and wind buffet splashing though the isolastics. If you really want a handler to take your breath way, ie: fighter pilot breath control to prevent too much tunnel vision and vision dimming cornering G's, then get rid of 8 ugly lbs of center stand and figure out a rear link, then a front one, hooked up mirror image Watt's like to rear one, then diddle in a top link as leisure time after thought to remove the last bit of bike sensation under you to see why I sum Ms Peel up as...
Uncanny Flabbergasting Fabulous!
 
I have one of those headsteadies on mine. Mine came from Norman White.
Click to expand...

I've seen Normal top isolastic and looks like part of advanced air craft. So what is your sense of it vibe and handling character?
 
hobot said:
NO NO NO, Trixie is plain Jane factory Combat all the way for a baseline reality check on what everyone else suffers with and thinks is the innate state of a smooth operator.
Click to expand...

You take me too literally! I only was referring to your description of Trixie from New Orleans from other threads.

Vintage Paul
 
Oh ok, like a New Orleans slut, never the best for her as wouldn't know what to do with it. I guess you saw how i treated her head steady, but she likes that, should see the long pole it takes to fix her under carnage now and then.

Still awaiting first report of isolastic head steady thats as good as factory vibe wise.
 
hobot said:
I have one of those headsteadies on mine. Mine came from Norman White.
Click to expand...

I've seen Normal top isolastic and looks like part of advanced air craft. So what is your sense of it vibe and handling character?
Click to expand...

No difference in vibes.
Handling better at speed.
 
Ok I did a little research on the unit I have. After removing the powdrecoat form the mating surface and tightening the center bolt fully, I had .015 clearance. So scrape off the powder coat and take a measurment. THen shim with factory rear iso shims as required.

I am only making the 12 that I recieved from an Ebay purchase from australia. It was some jigs and parts to finish 5, bodies for 12 and a bunch of parts. I have 5 done, 4 sold and now trying to find time to finish making the parts I need. It will be a while before I get any more ready.
 
bwolfie said:
After removing the powdrecoat form the mating surface and tightening the center bolt fully, I had .015 clearance. So scrape off the powder coat and take a measurment. THen shim with factory rear iso shims as required.
Click to expand...

For those of us who are just a little thicker than average, can you be more specific as to where to remove the powdercoat from and where to add shims? Also, where do you take the measurement? What constitutes fully tightened? The manual was somewhat breezy on these topics.

Vintage Paul
 
remove powder coat from face of the thin edge of the round part on the main body. This is where the shims would also go. Fully tighten the thru bolt, you can feel when all the parts make contact. then insert a feeler gauge between the teflon and one of the steel disks.
 
Right, the cups fit over the ends of the tube on the main bit. The shims go inside the cups to shim out towards the soft washer.
So remove all paint from the end faces of the tube. Place cups onto tube & make sure the inside of the cups nare up against the tube.
Place yer soft washers onto spigots on end bits, threads bolt through 1 end bit, then through middle hole on headsteady, then place on other end bit & do nut up.
When done up, you should be able to rotate the cups. Then get a feeler & shove in between soft washer & cup. Thats how much clearance you have.
For example, if you have .023" clearance, then you would need to put .013" of shims inside the cup to shim it out from the tube, to get .010" recommended clearance. In my case I would put .020" 'cause I would be happier with .003" clearance.
Got writers cramp now!
P.S. As Mr. bwolfie just said while I was writing this.
 
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