Problems installing front brake upgrade

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Neat quick-check!
I measured my unmolested original and got 1-5/16" from rim to outside face of disc.
 
nortonisthebest said:
Are you saying it should be around 1 1/4" ? If so what can I do to correct it? I already loosened to spokes on the left side one turn and tightened the right side spokes one turn but a few of the spokes ran out of thirds.

If you've already reached the point where you are running out of thread then the only alternative would be to change those spokes.

nortonisthebest said:
The spokes are fatter on this rim then the back rim.

Yes, and you may also find the disc side spokes are heavier (8 SWG) gauge than the non-disc side spokes (9 SWG). The rear wheel (and front drum wheel) spokes are normally 10 SWG.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/swg-s ... _1779.html
 
1 5/16" would put my rim further over to the left by 1/16". I need to move it over to the right at least a 1/4" to center the wheel.
 
Are those forks pulled together, or is it just the photo? They don't look parallel in the photo
 
nortonisthebest said:
1 5/16" would put my rim further over to the left by 1/16".

No. It would move the rim 3/16" closer to the disc so 3/16" to the right if, as you said, the distance was 1 1/2".
 
nortonisthebest said:
I know the disc brake assembly is stock and fit perfectly on a 1973 Hi Rider that I had sold. I was able to buy back the stock disc brake setup because the gentleman I sold the HI Rider to went back to the drum brake. Why did the disc brake work on the 1973 Hi Rider and not on my 1971 roadster????
I'm not clear, was the wheel ever dis-assembled at some point? Is there any chance the rim was drilled for a drum hub to start with?
 
The fork tubes do look a bit squeezed at the bottom , maybe just the camera angle but worth checking ....
Craig
 
No. The rim was never changed from the stock disc assembly. I had disc assembly installed on a 1973 Hi Rider that had a drum brake. Why this is different I don't know. I will remove the tire and loosen the spokes and see if I can get it to the correct 1 5/16" . I hate stringing spokes on a rim, it isn't my favorite past time things to do and hard to get it true. Thanks for all your feedback.
 
Hurry, undue the punch bolt on the left side and let the slider relax on the axle. You appear to be trying to pull or squeeze the sliders together to take up the space. This is the wrong thing to do. The space between the slider and hub on the left is of no concern and is relative because the slider is clamped on the axle by the pinch bolt and nut on the bottom of the slider.

Man, I hope you haven't bent your tube trying to do that. Do you have a manual? H6 I believe.
Before you tighten the pinch/clamp bolt, sit on the bike and actuate the suspension a few time to align the wheel on the axle on the left side relative to the slider to get it perfectly perpendicular, then snug up the clamp.

Do you understand what I am saying.
PM me and we can talk on the phone.
 
No. The pinch bolt is loose in the picture. I would never try to move the aluminum fork sliders in or out. I was showing the pictures on the left side as a reference only to the assembly. I am convinced it is the spokes that need to be adjusted to correct the alignment. The sliders move up and down smoothly with no binding.
 
Measure between the fork tubes just below the lower triple clamp and just above the tire. They should be equal. Yours surely appears to be narrowing from the top down, "a lot".

Also, notice the hole in my axle as it pertains to the slider compared to yours. That difference is significant.

Also tighten the pinch/clamp bolt and see how easy you forks slide up and down.

Problems installing front brake upgrade
 
The fork alignment looks ok once you get used to it, its the angle the photo's were taken from that make it look as if the sliders converge. Note the factory service bulletin on this wheel had you hitting the disc side outer spokes with a rubber mallet near to the hub holes to help get it aligned properly.
 
Paul, just to be clear, and I will leave you to do the math, from the outside surface of my disk to the centerline of the rim is 2 5/8".

So, measure the width your rim, divide by 2 and add the measurement from the outside of you disk to the rim edge. The numbers I gave you are from a non stock rim but this calculation will work and will give you an idea on how far you have yet to go compared to 2 5/8".
 
OK. I loosened the spokes on the left side two turns each and tightened the right side one turn and the wheel moved over to 1 5/16" from the out side of disc to edge of the rim. I also measured from the outside of the disc to the center of the rim and it was 2 5/8" as close as I could tell. The wheel looks very close to center and spins true. Thanks again for all your help. You guys really know what you are talking about.
 
Good on you , hope that settles it and you get to go for a nice ride .... seems you may have the weather for it .... still minus 2C here .... but I am ready ...
Craig
 
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