Practical Custom Wiring

Final wiring diagram (for now).



Missing is a warning light assimilator. Not sure what I'm going to do there. Probably start a thread about how to make something almost as useful...

I haven't built the LED lights yet, so those may change slightly.

And I don't like the headlight circuit. But it works and having the power go through the two-position switch is hopefully better than the handlebar switch.

These show the exact wire colors I used. In some places I had to splice or connect different color wires at junctions. I've shown those.

I hope this helps someone. And thanks to everyone who put up with my stupid questions. I hope this makes you proud or at least glad I won't be asking too many more questions. Except for the whole fuse thing...

A few little problems, I will make up diagrams tomorrow and post them or if you want to think about it, it is in the headlight circuit.

Stay tuned :mrgreen:

Jean

Jeandr said:

A few little problems, I will make up diagrams tomorrow and post them or if you want to think about it, it is in the headlight circuit.

Stay tuned :mrgreen:

Jean

Click to expand...

Ugh, I think I know what you're going to say. That handlebar switch is going to be the end of me. I don't think I diagrammed it right. But initial test tell me that at least the relay works. As soon as I get a headlight (hopefully soon) I might get a real test of the circuit.

Kill switch should be normally closed, and I'm not sure on the boyer box input being common with the coil positive terminal?

Are we caught in the kill switch vortex again?!!!

rvich said:

Are we caught in the kill switch vortex again?!!!

Click to expand...

NO!

First, the flasher indicator does not need the steering diodes, this will work just as well and requires fewer components:



Now for the headlight, as it is, the only way for you to turn the high beam on is to flick the dip switch *AND* to push the top button. The easy fix is to wire both buttons in parallel, this way, either button will turn the high beam on which is what is supposed to happen. The idea behing headlight relays is to bypass any switch and route power directly from the fuse to the relay and only use the switches to carry low current. Again the fast fix to your diagram is to route the power directly to the relay and let the headlight on (on low beam) as soon as the ignition switch is turned on and junk that light switch OR you can do it right and do it like this:



Or use the KISS principle and do it like this:



Jean

Like I said, it's wired right, I just diagramed it wrong. It took me a couple tried to figure out the handlebar switch.

I don't like the idea of "always on" headlight. If the headlight isn't bright enough (I'll measure the juice at the headlight) I can always go to a pair of relays.

Jeandr said:

First, the flasher indicator does not need the steering diodes, this will work just as well and requires fewer components:

Jean

Click to expand...

led-turn-signals-t6679.html#p67230

So you don't think this diagram is right? Remember that the turnsignals are LED and don't draw appreciable current.

I believe the diodes are there to restrict current so the flashing relay will work. The stock bulbs provide current flow that triggers the stock flasher relay. Without the diodes installed correctly (which restrict current flow in one direction) it would not trigger the new flasher.

Click to expand...

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73400

If all turn signals and the indicator are LEDs, then you need to add a load resistor (10 ohms 20 watt) in parallel with one of the "bulbs" on each side, if you don't do that, the flasher relay will not work.



Jean

Oh and you are still missing a wire on that high beam flasher switch :mrgreen: unless of course that is one of the new wireless switches :wink:

Jean

Jeandr said:

If all turn signals and the indicator are LEDs, then you need to add a load resistor (10 ohms 20 watt) in parallel with one of the "bulbs" on each side, if you don't do that, the flasher relay will not work.
Jean

Click to expand...

It's an electronic flasher (not the stock) so I'm hoping it won't need to load resistor.

Jeandr said:

Oh and you are still missing a wire on that high beam flasher switch :mrgreen: unless of course that is one of the new wireless switches :wink:

Jean

Click to expand...

Try this.