Please check diagram and confirm for me

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joeboomer999 said:
Jim, you mean like this? (sorry im a visual kinda guy)

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Also is there any reason why the rec/alt is wired up before the switch? I placed it there in this diagram because that's how ive always seen it but why not place on the other side so when you flick the switch you cut all circuits?
Click to expand...

A bit of a can of worms, but if you are starting from scratch, why not do away with the one fuse or, in this case two fuse wiring job and use a proper fuse box? That way each circuit is protected for certain, plus if electrical problems do occur, each circuit is isolated. With the one fuse way, a short anywhere in the bike's wiring will blow the main fuse and shut everything down. Tracing the problem is often difficult.
With a fuse to each circuit, you know exactly which circuit has the problem, it's the one with the blown fuse. And a short in the turn indicator circuit won't have you stranded roadside.
I wired my project bike this way and have often thought that if and when I ever redo the Commando wiring completely, that is the treatment it will get.
Alternator input feeds in thru the a 15 amp fuse in the fusebox, though I would not count on that fuse to protect the tiny wire for the GPS circuit, for example. That one is protected by a 3 amp fuse, all that is needed for the GPS.
I used two 6 place fuse boxes, so far there are 10 circuits in use with 2 available for future add ons. When the electronic speedo developed a problem, I was very glad that it was fed by a 2 amp fuse which popped immediately. If it was being fed by a big battery and 30 amp fuse as things are on the Commando, say goodbye to the speedo and probably the wiring harness too!
I used automotive stuff and lighted fuses, however there are lots of motorcycle only type fuse boxes available including those with resetable breakers instead of fuses.

Re the switch/regulator question, with my project bike, when the key switch is off, everything is off. This works fine, just as long as the key or toggle switch is sized for the load. I also used a relay for the Horn circuit(air horn) .



Glen
 
+1
If you use the flat fuse box you can obtain fuses that light up when blow making it easier which circuit you have a problem with.
 
+1 on fuse box or at least multiple fuses after ignition switch to sub circuits.
+1 on relays for horn and headlight.
Pete
 
joeboomer999 said:
Jim, you mean like this? (sorry im a visual kinda guy)

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Also is there any reason why the rec/alt is wired up before the switch? I placed it there in this diagram because that's how ive always seen it but why not place on the other side so when you flick the switch you cut all circuits?
Click to expand...

That will work although I usually go straight to the battery with the alternator fuse.

The alternator must go to the battery side of the switch or the alternator will continue to power the ignition after the switch is shut off and the engine will continue to run. Jim
 
worntorn said:
joeboomer999 said:
Jim, you mean like this? (sorry im a visual kinda guy)

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Also is there any reason why the rec/alt is wired up before the switch? I placed it there in this diagram because that's how ive always seen it but why not place on the other side so when you flick the switch you cut all circuits?
Click to expand...

A bit of a can of worms, but if you are starting from scratch, why not do away with the one fuse or, in this case two fuse wiring job and use a proper fuse box? That way each circuit is protected for certain, plus if electrical problems do occur, each circuit is isolated. With the one fuse way, a short anywhere in the bike's wiring will blow the main fuse and shut everything down. Tracing the problem is often difficult.
With a fuse to each circuit, you know exactly which circuit has the problem, it's the one with the blown fuse. And a short in the turn indicator circuit won't have you stranded roadside.
I wired my project bike this way and have often thought that if and when I ever redo the Commando wiring completely, that is the treatment it will get.
Alternator input feeds in thru the a 15 amp fuse in the fusebox, though I would not count on that fuse to protect the tiny wire for the GPS circuit, for example. That one is protected by a 3 amp fuse, all that is needed for the GPS.
I used two 6 place fuse boxes, so far there are 10 circuits in use with 2 available for future add ons. When the electronic speedo developed a problem, I was very glad that it was fed by a 2 amp fuse which popped immediately. If it was being fed by a big battery and 30 amp fuse as things are on the Commando, say goodbye to the speedo and probably the wiring harness too!
I used automotive stuff and lighted fuses, however there are lots of motorcycle only type fuse boxes available including those with resetable breakers instead of fuses.

Re the switch/regulator question, with my project bike, when the key switch is off, everything is off. This works fine, just as long as the key or toggle switch is sized for the load. I also used a relay for the Horn circuit(air horn) .



Glen
Click to expand...

I thought of this but as mentioned want the most stripped down system ie no fuse box. Dont think trouble shooting will be to bad as this part of it is pretty clean, won't be running turn indicators, the headlight and brake light will be on a completely isolated circuit...
 
Right Jim, I should have remembered that since I once wired up a bike with the alternator feeding the ignition and it did continue running with the ignition key off.
For the on/off to the project bike I used a heavy duty round key ingition 2 pole switch, a Harley after market item. The heavy battery hot lead goes to one heavy switch terminal then back to feed the fuse boxes. The fuse for that wire is on the ground side right at the battery. That way even if I am fiddling around and accidentally short out the battery hot terminal with a screwdrive, the fuse protects.
There is a second smaller pair of terminals on the switch for the ignition feed, which comes from the switch box. This way when the ignition switch is off, everything is off and the alternator can not continue to feed the ignition.
Isolation of the alernator /regulator from battery was necessary with all Alton setups up until last year. If the Alton was wired directly to the battery thru the regulator wire, it would drain the battery to nothing in a couple of weeks. I understand that the brand new Altons have a different regulator and do not do this. Nonetheless, I like the idea of ignition key off , everything off.
One other item that I stumbled onto and would certainly use again is labelled wiring. A hotrod builder friend gave me a box of his of cuts and it was enough to wire two or three bikes. As far a simple wiring goes, this wiring job was a bit more work with all of the fused circuits, but all things considered, ie trouble shooting or adding items, that bike now has the simplest electrical of the bikes I have here.

Please check diagram and confirm for me

Glen
 
worntorn said:
Right Jim, I should have remembered that since I once wired up a bike with the alternator feeding the ignition and it did continue running with the ignition key off.
For the on/off to the project bike I used a heavy duty round key ingition 2 pole switch, a Harley after market item. The heavy battery hot lead goes to one heavy switch terminal then back to feed the fuse boxes. The fuse for that wire is on the ground side right at the battery. That way even if I am fiddling around and accidentally short out the battery hot terminal with a screwdrive, the fuse protects.
There is a second smaller pair of terminals on the switch for the ignition feed, which comes from the switch box. This way when the ignition switch is off, everything is off and the alternator can not continue to feed the ignition.
Isolation of the alernator /regulator from battery was necessary with all Alton setups up until last year. If the Alton was wired directly to the battery thru the regulator wire, it would drain the battery to nothing in a couple of weeks. I understand that the brand new Altons have a different regulator and do not do this. Nonetheless, I like the idea of ignition key off , everything off.

Glen
Click to expand...

You can get dual pole switches that will switch the alternator and ignition on separate circuits. Cars and tractors used them for years. Jim
 
comnoz said:
joeboomer999 said:
Jim, you mean like this? (sorry im a visual kinda guy)

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Also is there any reason why the rec/alt is wired up before the switch? I placed it there in this diagram because that's how ive always seen it but why not place on the other side so when you flick the switch you cut all circuits?
Click to expand...

That will work although I usually go straight to the battery with the alternator fuse.

The alternator must go to the battery side of the switch or the alternator will continue to power the ignition after the switch is shut off and the engine will continue to run. Jim
Click to expand...


Doesn't that diagram have the regulator feed before the switch? Looks like its located after the fuse and before the ignition switch.

+1 on regulator directly to the battery. Said that from the beginning.

Pete
 
Regulator directly to battery is OK unless you happen to run an Alton as some do on Commandos. Then the regulator needs a switch in there or the battery goes dead. (Trickle load)

Glen
 
joeboomer999,

Problem with one fuse is if a short develops anywhere in the system you lose your ignition and your stuck. Even if you add just one more fuse for lighting and horn, etc you can isolate the ignition loop to get home. Just an idea. What ever you do good luck.

Pete
 
worntorn,

Yes saw similar ones like that before. If I was starting from scratch I would go for something like that with the main power relay. Three circuits is perfect, ignition, headlight and turn/horn should cover all the bases.
 
I started with six and ended up with ten somehow!
I put a lot of junk on that bike and each manufacturer asks for a dedicated circuit with appropriate fuse for their item.
Though you can do without things like heated vests and GPS and self cancelling indicators, it's all good stuff to have for safety and comfort.
Perhaps it is ideal to start with a fusebox that has a couple of extra spots beyond your planned requirements, then adding electrical items later can be done easily and neatly. With wiring, I seem to have to force myself to make it neat, my natural inclination is otherwise :D

Glen
 
ok version 3.2 :) look good?

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Pete, that's the plan the lights will be on a totally isolated circuit including fuse. because of this im really only looking at the run curcuit right now as it will be easy to implement the other later.
 
joeboomer999,

That's close to what I would do. When you hook up you lights I would:
Keep existing fuse as a main fuse
Attach ( at least one) fused wire from the switched side of you toggle for lights/horn. This fuse(s) should be of a lesser value than main fuse. It can be as simple or as complicated as you want. I am a firm believer in using relays but that's just a personal choice. Most important is good solid connections.Wire size will determine fuse size.

Pete
 
joeboomer999 said:
ok version 3.2 :) look good?

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Pete, that's the plan the lights will be on a totally isolated circuit including fuse. because of this im really only looking at the run curcuit right now as it will be easy to implement the other later.
Click to expand...

That's how I would do it. Jim
 
worntorn said:
What size fuse would be used on the alternator side, say for an rm 23 180 watt setup or the three phase 180 watt?

Glen
Click to expand...

15 amp.

Perhaps add a capacitor to act as a power conditioner / backup for flat battery e.g. Capacitor - Panasonic
ECOS1JP472CA/DA/EA 4700uF 63v or similar.
 
Ok thats my next question what would you guys recommend fuse wise for both the alt circuit and the ign. Circuit?
System is single phase 120w, trispark ign and dual lead coil... this is where my "grey area" gets real grey lol will try to figure it out when i get off work but all help is greatly appreciated
 
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