Over coated

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jamesp said:
No, I haven’t called them yet, but thinking about it. I have been doing some filing and bought a Dremel today, so going to give that a try.
Click to expand...
When you start you’ll realise it’s an easy job and you’ll be done in less time than you spent thinking about it... Then you can move on to the next problem !
 
There as many different types of powdercoat as types of paint, pick the right powdercoater for your frame and it will be as good as the petrol tank when you pick the right painter.
 
I'm not sure why a coating that is durable for outdoor lawn furniture automatically must be bad for a motorcycle frame?
If it can bond strongly to metal, endure rain and sun for years, keep the metal underneath in a rust free state, maintain its gloss and bond to the metal being protected, resist abrasion and impact damage, it sounds perfect for a motorcycle frame to me.
Guess what, that is exactly how it has worked out for lots of us who have used Powder coating on motorcycle frames and components for many years now.

Glen
 
elefantrider said:
I hate powder as much as anyone on here, and have written about it before.

But one bike came to me with a powdercoated cradle, swingarm and frame, and is doing just fine with the factory serrated washers, and blue locktite. And the powder on this bike was NOT removed from the surrounding hole surfaces.

Maybe somebody can comment on whether Andover's new cradles are painted or powder coated?
Looks like powder to me.

Over coated



Post some close up pics of the powder on your cradle's edges. I say make your decision based on the hardness of the material and how thick they put it on.
Bike-recommended places can put powder on lightly these days.
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Here is a shot of the section I filed, showing the thickness.
E30C9537-FF54-4D5B-BC4F-8DB2510EF4C9.jpeg
 
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As I mentioned, most hardware store paint stripper takes it right off. I do it all the time. Will be doing it later today in fact.

But maybe it sounds easy, therefore it must not be true.

Dremeling involves hours of breathing abrasives and whirring sounds and spinning things and buzzing hands, so it's much more manly, therefore the obvious way to go.

The chemicals used to strip powder coat at the powder coat shop are fake news. It's really elves with Dremel tools. Manly, manly elves...

...with buzzing hands...
 
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t ingermanson said:
As I mentioned, most hardware store paint stripper takes it right off. I do it all the time. Will be doing it later today in fact.

But maybe it sounds easy, therefore it must not be true.

Dremeling involves hours of breathing abrasives and whirring sounds and spinning things and buzzing hands, so it's much more manly, therefore the obvious way to go.

The chemicals used to strip powder coat at the powder coat shop are fake news. It's really elves with Dremel tools. Manly, manly elves...

...with buzzing hands...
Click to expand...

He‘s not stripping it all, just around the bolt holes...
 
I appreciate all the comments, and some have given me a good laugh, as well as things to think about. I haven’t tried the Dremel yet, but the paint stripper idea seems like it would be hard to direct since I am looking to make round cuts down to bare metal. You can also say the same about the Dremel. I did order a set of Nord-lock washers and plan to bolt some down to see how far they penetrate. Doing this will also give me the pattern I need to work on. Its possible that the washers may penetrate far enough to give a good bite as well as leaving a bullet proof coating in place. I know its a long shot, but worth a try.
 
worntorn said:
I'm not sure why a coating that is durable for outdoor lawn furniture automatically must be bad for a motorcycle frame?
If it can bond strongly to metal, endure rain and sun for years, keep the metal underneath in a rust free state, maintain its gloss and bond to the metal being protected, resist abrasion and impact damage, it sounds perfect for a motorcycle frame to me.
Guess what, that is exactly how it has worked out for lots of us who have used Powder coating on motorcycle frames and components for many years now.

Glen
Click to expand...
TO BE FAIR, I haven't seen examples of all the various types/quality of various powder coat methods/materials. So maybe the only experience I have is with the stuff on the "low side" of the quality scale.

But my experience with it is that it doesn't really last longer than paint and is far more difficult to repair when it gets damaged. Further, I haven't seen that it holds its gloss with extended UV exposure any better than good-quality paint. I just don't see any advantage to it from a functional point of view though, of course, it is much more environmentally friendly. But again, maybe I've only been exposed to the cheap stuff! ;)
 
jamesp said:
I appreciate all the comments, and some have given me a good laugh, as well as things to think about. I haven’t tried the Dremel yet, but the paint stripper idea seems like it would be hard to direct since I am looking to make round cuts down to bare metal. You can also say the same about the Dremel. I did order a set of Nord-lock washers and plan to bolt some down to see how far they penetrate. Doing this will also give me the pattern I need to work on. Its possible that the washers may penetrate far enough to give a good bite as well as leaving a bullet proof coating in place. I know its a long shot, but worth a try.
Click to expand...
That would be my choice also. If the Nordlok is able to provide a good enough bite to leave an imprint on the parts in the video, it should do the same on powdercoat. You could mark the position with a paint pen or marker per the video and determine if it loosens over time.
 
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MexicoMike said:
TO BE FAIR, I haven't seen examples of all the various types/quality of various powder coat methods/materials. So maybe the only experience I have is with the stuff on the "low side" of the quality scale.

But my experience with it is that it doesn't really last longer than paint and is far more difficult to repair when it gets damaged. Further, I haven't seen that it holds its gloss with extended UV exposure any better than good-quality paint. I just don't see any advantage to it from a functional point of view though, of course, it is much more environmentally friendly. But again, maybe I've only been exposed to the cheap stuff!
Click to expand...

MexicoMike said:
TO BE FAIR, I haven't seen examples of all the various types/quality of various powder coat methods/materials. So maybe the only experience I have is with the stuff on the "low side" of the quality scale.

But my experience with it is that it doesn't really last longer than paint and is far more difficult to repair when it gets damaged. Further, I haven't seen that it holds its gloss with extended UV exposure any better than good-quality paint. I just don't see any advantage to it from a functional point of view though, of course, it is much more environmentally friendly. But again, maybe I've only been exposed to the cheap stuff! ;)
Click to expand...
Here's an example of the durability of powder coat. By 1993 the original paint on my MK3 was badly worn away around the switches and the instrument cups were looking rough. The owner at the time had Poke's Cycle send those parts out for Powdercoating.
Couldn't really complain that the original Factory finish went to hell after 18 years of use.
However, here it is 27 years and two owners after being powder coated in 1993.
The finish looks as though it was done today. There isnt a scratch or single mark around the switches where paint finishes wear badly.

Glen





 
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Problem seems to be resolved while retaining some paint. I used drummel sanding wheel inserted through mounting hole, then attached to motor unit. A few minutes work took the paint down to near metal. Outside hole shows imprint of Nord-Lock washer which really does lock in place once tightened and takes some effort to loosen. You can feel it working when going both ways. This was my first attempt, should go easier, neater on next attaching points. This seems to be good solution as it leaves thin coat of paint and grip for both sides. Thank you to those who offered ideas and helped me work through it.
 

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jamesp said:
Problem seems to be resolved while retaining some paint. I used drummel sanding wheel inserted through mounting hole, then attached to motor unit. A few minutes work took the paint down to near metal. Outside hole shows imprint of Nord-Lock washer which really does lock in place once tightened and takes some effort to loosen. You can feel it working when going both ways. This was my first attempt, should go easier, neater on next attaching points. This seems to be good solution as it leaves thin coat of paint and grip for both sides. Thank you to those who offered ideas and helped me work through it.
Click to expand...
Very interesting...
Can you show a picture of how you are using the demmil sanding wheel?

Also, about how long did it take to do that one?
 
It took me less than 10 minutes to do this one, once I got started. I had never used a Dremel before and took a while to get familiar with it and the attachments. I would imagine it would only take 5 minutes per hole once you get the hang of it.
 

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