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johnm said:
" (5) most of the issues I have with the dampers are from people not paying attention to the supplied instructions and attempting to dismantle them for whatever reason ,curiosity I guess "

or adjusting sag. :)
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Dismantling them would that not void any warranty on any new parts that have been brought if there was a fault and after 12 months.
 
Why is there a need for swearing when we have Shakespeare?

Thou elvish-mark'd, abortive, rooting hog!

Or

Away, you starvelling, you elf-skin, you dried neat's-tongue, bull's-pizzle, you stock-fish! ..

BTW
Don supplied me with a brake rotor that warped about 4 thou and caused pulsation.
I told him about the problem but did not call him a " Dickhead" or a " Pissant"
He put a new rotor in the mail next day, no charge.
Problem solved, can't beat that.

Glen
 
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Don, I dont post private conversations in public places without asking first. So I stand behind my statements.

Had you simply explained as much as you did in that post in your emails, it would not have come to this. Or offered your phone number when I asked for it.

Maybe next time, try to act like you care if your products work or not. I only figured out how they work and what the issue is from these threads.

What you say and how you say it matters. This is not an all metal business. That said your metal is busted. No way that rebound damper ever saw drop of loctite. It turns like it was just tapped.

And read this thread. Your imaginary perfect record doesn't hold up with the number of folks who got busted parts and bad service and posted here. That total goes up with the PMs I continue to get.

-Kyle
 
ashman said:
Dismantling them would that not void any warranty on any new parts that have been brought if there was a fault and after 12 months.
Click to expand...

Seeking any warranty on parts would never enter my mind. A new car yes. Old (new) bike stuff never.
 
swooshdave said:
Up this page John mentions messing with his dampers to adjust the sag.
Click to expand...

I got spacers in there but cannot remember how now. You need to be very careful with the positioning of the adjusting brass fitting wrt the spacing of the long needle otherwise the adjustment is out of working range. Or worse destroyed by screwing it too hard down into the fully closed position.

Its all obvious once you understand how it works.
 
I'm a bit lost on this situation but have had a good morning in the garage and then a nice lunch while watching Dr Phil. :D

If the needle adjusting rod screws into the upper brass cap, the grub screw inside has come adrift so there is some movement (which is what it sounds like)

Why is the rod not being unscrewed from the brass cap and the grub screw and rod then reassembled with new Loctite. ?

I realise the advice given as a repair was to keep it simple but if someone is flying all over the world, setting up race cars etc as posted, then a proper fix should be easy.

Or is this the one hiccup and you must refund me or I'll sue your ass type mentality that the rest of the world generalise as far as the US goes (be it true or not) ?
 
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It pays to remember they are not all things to all people. a few years back John supplied a set of his version to Bill Swallow to try on the 250 Eldee at the Manx. He did a couple of laps but didn't like them and swapped back to modified Norton dampers. Last year he got a 90 mph lap on the Eldee with the Norton set up.

https://velocetteracing.wordpress.c...dee-special/1-2-3-eldee-the-legend-continues/

I like them for road use and they work for me.

Bill has won the Manx 9 times and has a different baseline :-)
 
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Timewarp."Why is the rod not being unscrewed from the brass cap and the grub screw and rod then reassembled with new Loctite. ?"
Exactly, when I suggested this to Kyle that when all the profanities started.
even a drop of 290 wick in in the top would of taken a couple of seconds and he would of been on his way. But because
of his attitude with my suggestion was the turning point for me.
 
Time Warp said:
As far as springs and sag, a thicker spacer at the top would do that replacing the stock one, of course with the tight winding of the spring you might want to watch out for coil bind so a replacement higher rate spring is probably better.

The JB inserts had you fit your own springs so you had to remove the upper cap anyway, there is probably some vender relief selling the insert ready to fit with the springs already in place.

Ohh well, good bye thread starter.
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" As far as springs and sag, a thicker spacer at the top would do that replacing the stock one, "

Actually from memory I think a thicker washer at the top is exactly NOT what you want to do because that changes the lenght relationship between the brass adjustment piece and the port at the base of the needle.

Look I cannot remember exactly and I'm not going to pull it apart to look but I think I machined a spacer that was the same thickness in the threaded stack (thus ensuring the adjustment operated over the correct range) but had a hole in it which went over the positioning ring allowing the spacer to extend down and thus compressing the spring a bit more for preload.

But don't hold me to that cause it was a few months back and my brain is getting tired !!
 
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JohnM "Actually from memory I think a thicker washer at the top is exactly NOT what you want to do because that changes the lenght relationship between the brass adjustment piece and the port at the base of the needle. "
100% correct. Its not the same as extra preloading the spring as per the standard dampers. Its a bit more involved than that.
Hence the reason I supply the dampers with springs (standard) ready for fitment. I'm not about to have a bunch of springs
made with different load in the event someone might want other than standard springs
 
The stock fork spacer is below the stock top locking nut that seats on the under face of the fork cap.
The difference with the insert is the lower spacer (below the larger for the spring seat) is not floating like the stock item but threaded so any preloader would need to be a special item.
Not impossible but more involved than the stock version.

The JB inserts anyway would be no different, any spacer thickness increase is below the nut so has no effect on the needle rod.
The spring is being compressed only because the nut has not been moved.

Of course even when fitting springs to the JB inserts which means the top cap is removed means the top adjuster is backed out so there can be no chance of it bottoming out at the seat causing damage.

Once assembled the needle would be seated and backed off for oil flow ?
 
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This whole thread has confused me in ways I've never been confused before. I like it.
Don't know if I'm technically capable of dampening my suspension anymore...
Happy this thread has taken a turn away from the negative and in to the positive, you guys rock!
 
I
disquek said:
Don, I dont post private conversations in public places without asking first. So I stand behind my statements.

Had you simply explained as much as you did in that post in your emails, it would not have come to this. Or offered your phone number when I asked for it.

Maybe next time, try to act like you care if your products work or not. I only figured out how they work and what the issue is from these threads.

What you say and how you say it matters. This is not an all metal business. That said your metal is busted. No way that rebound damper ever saw drop of loctite. It turns like it was just tapped.

And read this thread. Your imaginary perfect record doesn't hold up with the number of folks who got busted parts and bad service and posted here. That total goes up with the PMs I continue to get.

-Kyle
Click to expand...


Dude! Give it a rest before you have a medical event! It's all ok. You win. Don's an a-hole. Smoke a splib. Have a cocktail. Move on.
 
That's some funny $hit Lazyeye, I think I feel a song coming on now that all is good again, lets let bygones be just that.

 
disquek said:
I only figured out how they work and what the issue is from these threads.
Click to expand...

Probably should have done that in the first place. Without all the name calling.

You'd be shocked at how much more helpful people are when you're nice.
 
worntorn said:
Why is there a need for swearing when we have Shakespeare?

Thou elvish-mark'd, abortive, rooting hog!

Or

Away, you starvelling, you elf-skin, you dried neat's-tongue, bull's-pizzle, you stock-fish! ..

BTW
Don supplied me with a brake rotor that warped about 4 thou and caused pulsation.
I told him about the problem but did not call him a " Dickhead" or a " Pissant"
He put a new rotor in the mail next day, no charge.
Problem solved, can't beat that.

Glen
Click to expand...

Tha’ great spawny -eyed, parrot faced wazzock!
 
To be clear, this issue will not be repaired with wicking Loctite.

Dons bad attitude was clear from his first emails a year ago. I was very polite, until I’d had enough. Then I gave him both barrels.

Don went to zero effort to explain this issue. He simply said to loctite it in a very dismissive way. The idea that wicking loctite would hold this tiny grub screw given the amount of effort to turn these is ridiculous. Something is mismachined, not lubricated, oversized, something is off.

Can I fix it? Sure. Do I want to fix it? Hell no. I paid for a working set of dampers, not a project. Will I fix it, of course.

As I’ve said I don’t even know how many times now, my issue isn’t with the mistakes make by Don when building these. It’s with his shit attitude with any and every question or suggestion I made.

This is enough. Close this thread too please. This is going nowhere but a religious war. We’ve all made our points many times and apparently no matter how many times you make them, there are those who won’t read them or simply ignore them.
 
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