hobot said:Ivory was one of the first store bought solid soaps with simple ingredients enough most can tolerate it. Its the smell of barracks and hi school showers and a lot of motels in America. Its what mothers washed out foul monthed youngsters with too, uuk. i use bar soap or old candles to rub on sliding door track to lube them and on screws driven in hard wood and in a sock to bop someone.
A good slice of bath bar soap in a sock at the foot of the bed helps settle restless leg syndrome for many very significantly. I never heard of this prior to Ozarks folks telling me it worked for them. I know the sources and fixes of restless legs but don't know what's up with the soap but if someone tries it let me know. The other common folk remedy in past was ATF or brake fluid or wd/40 put on painful arthritic joints and spine. I think that's the DMSO solvent which feels warming rubbed on. DMSO is famous race horse treatment externally but can be injected too, diluted. DMSO is bad juju on paint, if wet say over night, wiping is too late for the blisters than will eventually show.
BTW I tried the MoM on my mower header SS allen screws in old cast iron head and sure enough they broke free with similar torque as I left them and lost resistance in a few turns. An air leak rust blow out caused header and muffler to turn red and blow out the end cap so it got plenty hot tested.
lcrken said:madass140 said:due to improper assembly. I've never heard of any race bikes breaking rear axles.
I broke two of them on my race bike (Commando PR) back in the day, before converting to a one-piece axle. I recall other Commando racers having the same failure. And yes, they did all break at the start of the threads.
Ken
johnny Lagdon said:I have had 2 rear axles snap on my 850 mk3 over the years, always at the point where the threaded section ends. I was always on the understanding that that point is a stress riser and metal fatigue is to blame, but luckily I survived both times unscathed...
Mr. Rick said:I fitted up Don's SS one-piece kit today and found a couple of issues, want to know if I'm the only one to see them.
1) Upon tightening, the end of the axle (bolt) is recessed about 8mm (5/16") from the outside of the nut. You can't see the end of the axle itself unless you peer into the hole. Enough thread is engaged to be safe, I'm sure, but gives a sinking feeling at first glance.
2) I had to add 2mm thick washers at each end, to avoid fouling the chain adjusters on the heads of the bolt and nut. Stock washers are 4mm, the madass look like 3mm, and shd be closer to 5mm to centralise the adjusters.
Anyone else notice something like this?
I might also mention that I have to fight with the stock RH axle spacer every time I pull the wheel; it seems to be about 1/8" too long, and I have to "wedge" it into place. Can someone provide the correct length dimension for this spacer #4 on plate 20, 060324?
Is there a good reason to NOT take an eighth off mine?
Alternately, should I try to spread the swingarm to get that "missing" 1/8 ? Is 8.25" the accepted correct dimension for the swingarm spacing at the wheel?
Thanks--
Rick