Ok, I can do this! box of parts = 72 commando?

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Torontonian said:
Very clean work Staticmoves. A tip for the future ,the gearbox goes in before fitting the engine , so you will be unbolting a few things to achieve this. Also those early headsteady plates were prone to fracture from all the vibration so you may consider a future replacement. Peter , driving a black and gold 72 Combat called Crazy.

Thank You, and funny you should mention the head steady. Just before returning to read the post today I was looking up the dave taylor head steady, after reading about replacement of original is common place and acceptance. 8)
 
staticmoves said:
Torontonian said:
Very clean work Staticmoves. A tip for the future ,the gearbox goes in before fitting the engine , so you will be unbolting a few things to achieve this. Also those early headsteady plates were prone to fracture from all the vibration so you may consider a future replacement. Peter , driving a black and gold 72 Combat called Crazy.

Thank You, and funny you should mention the head steady. Just before returning to read the post today I was looking up the dave taylor head steady, after reading about replacement of original is common place and acceptance. 8)

So what is the general concensus on headsteadys, Who has the best bang for your buck headsteady?
So far I have viewed online , Old Britts, Dave Taylor, CNW, Genuine Norvil headsteady.
 
Easy enough to make you own, but rod links are the better way to go. Its educational to ride some w/o headsteady but boy howdy don't get too forgetful its missing as can suddenly hinge horrible if crossing a paint line or road lump while leaned on a bit of power... Nothing I've ever ridden is as smooth as my tri-linked Cdo with slightly sloppy loose isolastic gaps, nor nothing amazes me more on it handling power planting zig zagging flings either.
 
staticmoves said:
staticmoves said:
Torontonian said:
Very clean work Staticmoves. A tip for the future ,the gearbox goes in before fitting the engine , so you will be unbolting a few things to achieve this. Also those early headsteady plates were prone to fracture from all the vibration so you may consider a future replacement. Peter , driving a black and gold 72 Combat called Crazy.

Thank You, and funny you should mention the head steady. Just before returning to read the post today I was looking up the dave taylor head steady, after reading about replacement of original is common place and acceptance. 8)

So what is the general concensus on headsteadys, Who has the best bang for your buck headsteady?
So far I have viewed online , Old Britts, Dave Taylor, CNW, Genuine Norvil headsteady.

DIY $30

the-keith1069-headsteady-t5862.html
 
Ya, the originals are iffy at best. Pick the one you like best. The cross link is very cool. Just need to invent the invisable tank to show it off. :mrgreen:
 
So I purchased a used 850 head steady after all the heads up from the forum.
The price was very reasonable from a forum member ( thank you Paul )
A little sanding, priming, more sanding, and three shots of epoxy later here she is.
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... 21d1df.jpg
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... c1653a.jpg
Now epoxy just needs 7 days to cure, then will install.
I was at a cvmg swap meet on Saturday and on close inspection of the two 750 nortons I saw there, one had a cracked head steady, of which the owner was not aware, so I informed him. And the other had been cracked and welded. So after the show I thought I would take a closer inspection of my head steady. ( can you guess what I discovered :shock: oh yes, a cracked head steady.
So I will be installing the 850 head steady, repairing the original to maintain in my box of bits.
 
Ok so after all the talk of pressure build up in the crank case and leaking oil due to bottom end pressure build up, I caved and purchased the CNW reed type crank breather, and a UNI breather filter for the oil tank breather line.
Hope this helps eleaviate some of the certain oil leaks, looks like a great product and it has lots of praise on this forum.
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... 7376bb.jpg
Here they are pictured, also have Old Britts stainless oil lines and oil pressure gauge kit on the way, will take photos once installed.
 
I have installed an 850 box type head steady. After discovering mine was cracked.
At the same time here I took a pic of the C stamp on the head
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

Old Britts oil pressure gauge
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

Stainless steel front fender, restored fender stay and refurbished brake caliper, master cylinder has also been sleeved down to 13mm ( claimed 33% more breaking power )
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

CNW reed type breather
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

I will keep posting the progress as it is being made.
 
staticmoves said:
I have installed an 850 box type head steady...
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?

If you don't also have the spring suspension for the 850 top steady, I think I still have all the parts for that (new). It makes a significant difference when properly adjusted (you can search and study the discussions on it)

PM / e-mail if interested.
 
shrugger said:
Is that breather a bolt on for the Combat? Or did it take some machine work?
I bought it with the CNW adaptor plate which is direct bolt on, and I believe only available for combat.
 
The one from Old Brits might be better. But then again who would want that ugly thing sticking out the top of thier pretty motor. doh
 
shrugger said:
The one from Old Brits might be better. But then again who would want that ugly thing sticking out the top of thier pretty motor. doh
I installed old britts oil lines and oil pressure gauge and there quite nice looking.
Have not seen there case breather
 
hobot said:
Alrighty another Combat back in the works! Best model and example of what Norton was all about, both good and bad. Sounds like you are over most the mechanical curve ball lesions. Do realize that cycling is rather more dangerous and out of your control than rock climbing unless enemy team decides to roll boulders on ya w/o telling ya ahead of time. Once rolling check the front brake fluid at each gas stop to make good and sure it ain't blowing out unknown. DO NOT SET PRIMARY CHAIN WITH ANY TENSION COLD and check for sure when warmed well - before full HOT or can injure shafts and bushes engine to tranny.


I am at the point that I just installed the tranny ( are there any pitfalls to look out for here? ) ,
So my next step I will be tackling is installing and setting up the primary, I am trying to find a good source on setting this up properly, the books are not the best here, Any advice?

Thanks in advance 8)
 
Main thing on primary is getting the chain or belt tension loose enough its not too tight once fully heated with expanded distance between crank and clutch centers. Rear chain is used to pull too much 1' tension then gearbox to pull back to proper cold slackness, then nip up both chains and check when hot to be sure. I find ATF Type F in primary works a treat for the clutch plates and Dextron non Type F in the gear box too. DynoDaves clutch end seal is nice to have.
Beware over tightening the clutch nut against the wimpy clutch locator circlip and don't use the soft crushable lock tab washer, toss it for a hard steel washer and use loctite to hold the nut in tension. I just used plain flat washer but see posts of a dished one as better tension holder.
 
Well the day has come, she's all together.
I must admit, the first time I started it and took it down the street and back, sweet Mary, Joseph and the wee donkey could not have wiped the pie eating grin from my face.
This picture is a fine example of what this forum is about. ( minus my bad hair, and I suppose I could have shaved for the event. )
Ok, I can do this! box of parts =  72 commando?
 
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