Oil pouring through exhaust outlet

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Steady on, I wouldn't expect to hold back a leak with the washers, that the job of the gasket.
I was just trying to come up with a possible reason why the oil seeped out through the centre bolt location, sorry for any confusion.
 
Have you still got the old head gasket? Got any pics? That much oil migration shudda left witness marks...
No, I fitted a new copper gasket. it did have fresh oil about the suspect area. The centre bolt was coated in oil. all other cylinder bolts and nuts were dry.

I have it's all cleaned everything up, now waiting for a new centre bolt and washers.
 
No, I fitted a new copper gasket. it did have fresh oil about the suspect area. The centre bolt was coated in oil. all other cylinder bolts and nuts were dry.

I have it's all cleaned everything up, now waiting for a new centre bolt and washers.
Strong evidence!

Gotta ask tho... why copper?
 
Graeme, If I'm reading this correctly the spring washer was wedged, not properly seated, giving a faulty torque reading.
Thus not properly squishing the Head gasket causing oil to wick up the bolt.
Is that the summary?
 
Check that the thread in the barrels is not galled .it's happened to me once,the bolt was torquing up ,but not clamping the head down.
Chase the threads with a tap to make sure.
Cheers
 
why not copper?
Both have benefits to be fair.

Copper benefit: if the gasket is compromised it’s less likely to blow out completely and leave you stranded.
Copper negatives: FAR more prone to oil leaks. Unlike a Triumph etc, the Norton HG is sealing several oil paths. It’s a challenge for copper.

Composite benefit: far less likely to leak if fitted scrupulously clean etc.
Composite negatives: needs very frequent re torqueing after initial assembly.

There are other benefits to copper, if building a race engine etc it’s easier to get a measured tight squish with copper and you can buy different thicknesses to adjust this very nicely.
Also, if building a big bore (920 etc) copper is your only option AFAIK.

I’ve used both, I use copper on my current 920 but I use the JS motorsport Pliobond and copper wire trick. Lots of info on this forum about how to try and keep copper leak free.

On my 850 engine I use composite and have never had any leak or failure.

At the end of the day, you are struggling here with oil leaks, and are using a gasket type that is far more prone to leaks... composite would put some more of the odds in your favour.

So... why choose copper...?
 
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Both have benefits to be fair.

Copper benefit: if the gasket is compromised it’s less likely to blow out completely and leave you stranded.
Copper negatives: FAR more prone to oil leaks. Unlike a Triumph etc, the Norton HG is sealing several oil paths. It’s a challenge for copper.

Composite benefit: far less likely to leak if fitted scrupulously clean etc.
Composite negatives: needs very frequent re torqueing after initial assembly.

There are other benefits to copper, if building a race engine etc it’s easier to get a measured tight squish with copper and you can buy different thicknesses to adjust this very nicely.
Also, if building a big bore (920 etc) copper is your only option AFAIK.

I’ve used both, I use copper on my current 920 but I use the JS motorsport Pliobond and copper wire trick. Lots of info on this forum about how to try and keep copper leak free.

On my 850 engine I use composite and have never had any leak or failure.

At the end of the day, you are struggling here with oil leaks, and are using a gasket type that is far more prone to leaks... composite would put some more of the odds in your favour.

So... why choose copper...?
With reference to "copper wire trick." I wonder if soft lead tinning round the problem areas would help?
 
If in your shoes, I'd get the head surfaced, since it is currently off. I think your expert was a hack.
 
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It has been several weeks since I first posted this thread. It looks like I have stopped the leaks but have only had the engine running for a few minutes with a couple of blips on the throttle; there are some other minor issues that I'm working on before taking out on the road. However, I think I am in a lot better place than I thought I was.

Anyway, after two failed attempts I did the following:
1) had the head reskimmed
2) replaced all the studs, bolts, and washers
3) replaced all the oil lines
4)used a standard gasket (not copper) with a thin coat of engineering-grade silicon applied to both surfaces ( taking care not to block the oil return holes)
5) injected silicon about the studs ( know this sounds strange but have been advised to do this by a very experienced Norton engine builder)
6) torqued up nuts and bolts as specified in the Norton workshop manual.

Also, fitted the Alton electric start kit which started the engine the first time of asking.
I am now going to re-torque again and again!

Posted a video on youtube starting up the bike for the first time. The slight petrol drip is on the list!

 
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