Oil Line Screwup

KiwiShane said:

RGM... Sand cast stainless block with tig welded pipes flipped and bent to suit by me

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That's an idea where you might be able to make some money. Every time I adjust a primary drive tension or install a clutch cable, I think there's got to be a better way to route the hoses so they aren't a PITA. Do you have any pictures of the rest of the routing?

"A friend, new to Nortons, just told me that he accidentally swapped the "in" and "out" hoses on the oil filter bracket. After he started the bike, and idled it for a short period of time (not sure how long), one hose and the oil filter burst."


"I had my young son do the replacement with new hoses and clamps, but alas he (gets thrown under the bus in the story here) wasn't that fastidious and swapped the lines. I believe this didn't affect the small local jaunts done since the repair, as noted by YukoNorton, oil flows in and out of filters not caring which hole it uses. But starting on the fated day - using the attached (bloody brilliant!) Alton Starter, must have been too much, and right then at cold startup caused the Filter to expand and warp, as well as the Oil feed - attached incorrectly to the OUT at the filter mount, to be forced off violently!"


Small local jaunts...
odd the oil hose & filter tolerated some amount of running, then decided to poop.

Did those local jaunts include cold starts?

marshg246 said:

That's an idea where you might be able to make some money. Every time I adjust a primary drive tension or install a clutch cable, I think there's got to be a better way to route the hoses so they aren't a PITA. Do you have any pictures of the rest of the routing?

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Pictures...not much at present
I've had hold of some nice powerfull hi temp magnets and decided to try out a RGM full flow magnetic inline canister filter ( ive added a bigger magnet and made a bracket that bolts up to the cartridge filter mounting holes in the cradle...the extra filter can be taken apart and cleaned/serviced)......so I run the return line back to the magnetic canister filter...up to the oil cooler tower then back down to the cartridge filter ...which ends up back to the oil tank...The feed line runs nicely under the gearbox also and up to the junction block ...its a clean look in my eyes...and tucks in out of the way.. would be alot easier without the canister filter etc in the way...

I thought the Norton spin on filters had a none return valve in them. Is that wrong?

Fast Eddie said:

I thought the Norton spin on filters had a none return valve in them. Is that wrong?

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Not all replacement filters have an anti-syphon drain back valve and a filter with such a valve fitted on the return side is of no practical use.
Filters generally do, however, have a bypass valve.

Fast Eddie said:

I thought the Norton spin on filters had a none return valve in them. Is that wrong?

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I found this in an earlier thread:

OIL FILTER SPECIFICATIONS​

"Specs for the Wix filter # 51352, which is the cross referenced number for the Norton application, is:
27 microns- 6 to 8 GPM flow rate- bypass at 12 psi- anti drainback valve included, and 16x1.5mm threads...."

concours said:

odd the oil hose & filter tolerated some amount of running, then decided to poop.

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Apparently, the bypass valve can open when the oil is cold to relieve pressure, however, with the flow through the filter reversed that wouldn't happen.
"One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting the valve then closes."

Stephen Hill said:

A friend, new to Nortons, just told me that he accidentally swapped the "in" and "out" hoses on the oil filter bracket. After he started the bike, and idled it for a short period of time (not sure how long), one hose and the oil filter burst.

Assuming the engine is not damaged from oil starvation, what other damage should he be looking for? Example, will the oil seal on the primary side of the crankshaft be dislodged? Any other areas to check??

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How is your motor running since the plumbing has been rectified ?

Apparently, the bypass valve can open when the oil is cold to relieve pressure...

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As summer ends and fall approaches here in the far north, temperatures drop and the oil is cold and thick. To help with warming the oil before starting, I use a 200W 120V heat magnet...stick it on the side of the oil tank, plug it in and warm the oil before starting.

A similar model of the oil pan heater is here; note they also sell the silicone pad heaters (aka Alaska pads) which can be mounted permanently for the winter riders (also available in several small sizes; 25W, 50W)

YukoNorton said:

As summer ends and fall approaches here in the far north, temperatures drop and the oil is cold and thick. To help with warming the oil before starting, I use a 200W 120V heat magnet...stick it on the side of the oil tank, plug it in and warm the oil before starting.

A similar model of the oil pan heater is here; note they also sell the silicone pad heaters (aka Alaska pads) which can be mounted permanently for the winter riders (also available in several small sizes; 25W, 50W)

Heat Magnet 200w 120v (Zerostart 3400017)

Zerostart, Engine Heater, Block Heater, Winter

triplertruckparts.com

https://www.etrailer.com/Oil-Pan-Heater/Kats-Heaters/KH26025.html

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I'm bloody glad we don't get extremely cold down here...but that's a cool gadget