Oil tank line - wot's the trick?

dobba99 said:
The action is similar but it looks like they (crox) are not available in the size required. I didn't know that the Crox existed. Nice to know that they are available. The three ball action of the crox balances out the forces required the swage the tube. When you get down to small tube (1/4") you have to use a single ball, there is just not enough space for the three ball action.
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Ahh - I see now
Could not see the ball in your photo dobba - bit thick of me!!
So the ball is recessed in the tube that is pushed down inside and then an internal screw pushes the ball outward as the tool is rotated in the pipe (to be flared) and gradually form the ridge.
Nice work!

Thanks for that photo Shane!
 
OP, when mine was weeping there, it turned out to be a cracked tank bottom stud, only leaking whilst running, the wind blowing it back on the hose.
I'm sure you checked.


Oil tank line - wot's the trick?
 
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Greg Marsh schooled me to not use fuel hose for hot oil lines but rather transmission cooler hose

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And what size hose are you using. 10mm is probably too large. You need 3/8”
 
Try using a heat gun on the end of the hose and spigot, install the hose on the spigot, then clamp it.
You'll probably find the hose "shrinks" to fit, unless you are a mile out. If you have an extra length of hose, experiment on that first.
 
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dobba99 said:
The action is similar but it looks like they (crox) are not available in the size required. I didn't know that the Crox existed. Nice to know that they are available. The three ball action of the crox balances out the forces required the swage the tube. When you get down to small tube (1/4") you have to use a single ball, there is just not enough space for the three ball action.
Click to expand...
I've got a couple for copper plumbing work (not a plumber) but like you say I've never seen one that small to do that size pipe....so your tool making is perfect 👌
 
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concours said:
OP, when mine was weeping there, it turned out to be a cracked tank bottom stud, only leaking whilst running, the wind blowing it back on the hose.
I'm sure you checked.
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There is no bottom stud on my tank
TomU said:
Greg Marsh schooled me to not use fuel hose for hot oil lines but rather transmission cooler hose
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What is it about transmission hose that make it better than oil hose - for oil?
TomU said:
And what size hose are you using. 10mm is probably too large. You need 3/8”
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Yes- my hose is new 3/8"

Cheers
 
Both the feed and return hoses are not under pressure so should not leak with a descently snug fit and reasonable clamp.

Have you eliminated leaks from above, like the chain oiler not being blanked off completely, a seep at the tank fill cap seal, or a hairline crack at the tank rear support tang? The baby powder trick might reveal what's happening.
 
Tornado said:
Both the feed and return hoses are not under pressure so should not leak with a descently snug fit and reasonable clamp.

Have you eliminated leaks from above, like the chain oiler not being blanked off completely, a seep at the tank fill cap seal, or a hairline crack at the tank rear support tang? The baby powder trick might reveal what's happening.
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Yep - thoroughly checked the tank - no crack/leaks anywhere.
 
Is this weep on your pre-Commandos, or your Commando? Not that it matters if the leak is where you think it is ,,,, at a hose / hose barb junction. But if elsewhere, knowing what oil tank you have maybe useful to someone.

I know you said no leaks in the tank. I would verify the leak is where you think by pressureizing the tank, and submerging or applying leak detector to the suspect joint.
Rig up a Schrader valve on a piece of oil hose, and cap off all ports The leak source should be readily apparent. A modest pressure is sufficient..... 10 to 20 psi

Slick
 
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texasSlick said:
Is this weep on your pre-Commandos, or your Commando? Not that it matters if the leak is where you think it is ,,,, at a hose / hose barb junction. But if elsewhere, knowing what oil tank you have maybe useful to someone.

I know you said no leaks in the tank. I would verify the leak is where you think by pressureizing the tank, and submerging or applying leak detector to the suspect joint.
Rig up a Schrader valve on a piece of oil hose, and cap off all ports The leak source should be readily apparent. A modest pressure is sufficient..... 10 to 20 psi

Slick
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Yes it's on the commando and the leak is where the hose fits on the pipe of the large rear banjo.
I could rotate the hose on the pipe by hand with the clamp tightened (tighter than is good for the hose)
I'll take that banjo into good auto/hardware shop and test various hoses on it - see where that goes.
I am also starting on a tool like @dobba99
Cheers
 
robs ss said:
Yes it's on the commando and the leak is where the hose fits on the pipe of the large rear banjo.
I could rotate the hose on the pipe by hand with the clamp tightened (tighter than is good for the hose)
I'll take that banjo into good auto/hardware shop and test various hoses on it - see where that goes.
I am also starting on a tool like @dobba99
Cheers
Click to expand...
A air conditioning guy may have what you need...possibly ?
 
robs ss said:
I could rotate the hose on the pipe by hand with the clamp tightened (tighter than is good for the hose)

I am also starting on a tool like @dobba99
Cheers
Click to expand...

Hose and banjo are not compatible. Swaging a rib around the banjo should do the trick. Alternatively, you can flare the end very slightly, then round off with a file.
Good luck with it.
 
I guess you have checked to be sure there's not a crack/pinhole in the fitting itself? I have never had a problem with the OEM fitting and oil/fuel hose and the standard (cheap) hose clamps. Never had to mess with putting bulges on fittings or FI clamps. There is almost no pressure involved...
 
MexicoMike said:
I guess you have checked to be sure there's not a crack/pinhole in the fitting itself? I have never had a problem with the OEM fitting and oil/fuel hose and the standard (cheap) hose clamps. Never had to mess with putting bulges on fittings or FI clamps. There is almost no pressure involved...
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Good point, only gravity acting on it.

Until the engine is running… then it’s under suction… might suck air in… cause cavitation… bet your worried now Rob !!
 
Aussie company...
It might be a bit of a squeeze.
But she'll be a tight fit.:)
 

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robs ss said:
What is it about transmission hose that make it better than oil hose - for oil?
Click to expand...
It's rated for higher temps.

New hose that's the right size (no larger than 3/8") and a proper clamp should do the trick. No mods to the banjo necessary (mine does not leak)

Disclaimer: I use oetiker clamps which are by far the best clamps, however they are not easily removed and have to be destroyed in the process. Fuel injection clamps (mentioned earlier) should be sufficient
 
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