nuts and bolts

Status
Not open for further replies.
N

nortones7

Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
10
I am curious as to what do most restorers do to reinstall nuts and bolts on a Commando, are they polished, plated or painted, or replaced with stainless. I have noticed on my Commando for example front wheel nut is rusty. I am about to strip bike and start a full resto.
 
Pretty much a full range of stock looking nuts and bolts is available from your
friendly local Norton Dealer - in the green globe bags with Andover Norton label.
This, in my estimation, is truly wonderful.

This is on top of all the stainless hardware available.

Yer pays yer money and makes yer choices.....
 
You have lots of options. Some re-plate the originals. I opted to buy SS from reasonably priced places for most of the frame hardware, non critical stuff. Engine and critical HW, I buy SS from various vendors now and then, Rocky Point, Clubman, RGM, etc. You can shop around if price conscious which is what I did. madass also sells some SS parts that are good. Take note the washers are not SAE, AN or USS size. I bought my washers from McMaster some in metric because they were closest to the size. I the washers cost me about $30 which is steep for what you get, but they look right. I think there's some UK sources that sell the proper washers. I have a list if you really want it.
 
A lot of nuts and bolts on earlier Brit bikes were cadmium plated. These days they would be plated with zinc. In either case hydrogen embrittlement is a problem if the post plating heat treatment is not correct. The bolts are usually high-tensile. If you heat them above 130 deg. C they can lose temper, and the time they are soaked at 130 deg. C must be longer than a normal 200 deg. C treatment. Corrosion of the plating is always a problem - zinc is worse than cadmium. However if you want your bike looking authentic, zinc or cadmium looks correct.
Most platers who service the aircraft industry are pretty good on this stuff.
 
I have a good collection of UNF bolts and nuts, metric, as well as BWS nuts and bolts that I collected them over the years from where i worked, but there are many nut and bolt shops around my area that can get what nuts and bolts you need for a cheap price, I don't like using S/S bolts, most of my collection are H/T bolts and always use new spring washers and flat washers that I have also collected over the years (31 years at the same place) I put new UNF bolts, spring washers and nuts on my engine mounts when I first converted my Commmando to the Featherbed frame 34 years ago and I am still running them same bolts and nuts but always replace the spring washers when ever I undo them, I have a life time supply of all the nuts and bolts that I will ever need, I always use find threat nuts and bolts on my Norton and have never had any problems with loosing nuts and bolts from riding.

Ashley
 
For stock appearing stuff I have been pleased with Rocky Point Cycles new line of stainless fasteners. Made here in the states.
EDIT, much of it is made here in the states.
nuts and bolts

I won't use them for axles or engine cradle hardware but they are good replacements for most of the stuff you see.
I will use stainless nuts on good quality studs or stock axles for the high strength stuff. Jim
 
If it's for a rider, a good clean up with a wire wheel mounted on a grinder can do wonders. Clean good with brake parts cleaner. I really like to use the original parts off of the bike for all the big and odd ball stuff like isobolts and engine and gearbox mounting bolts. Like someone mentioned that stuff is available from Andover but it's pretty pricey. For the less critical stuff, like mounting fenders and such, I use stainless from the hardware store. I've also use some of the engine dress up bits from the vendors. If you're doing a concours restoration that's a different story.
I have a whole tray of hardware to clean up from 850 project that is being stripped down, good therapy.
 
I got one of these zinc plating kits from Eastwood a few years ago and it's great.
Before plating I usually degrease the part and follow-up with a wire wheel, then a good wash in strong detergent.
I've zinc plated lots of original nuts, bolts, axles, adjusters. About 3 minutes per part.
They polish-up nicely afterwards.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-tin- ... ystem.html
 
A local Ex-Norton dealer and machinist gave me some good advice. Stainless looks great and has it's use in many area of a Commando. All original engine and power train bolts are "crap." Take them and chuck Em! The engine mounting bolts should be replaced with grade 8 bolts/nuts and should be "torqued" as much as you can without a cheater bar. Do not forget lock washers or some kind of thread locking compound. I do not use "nylock" type lock nuts and prefer to know the actual point of engagement when I am actually bringing two parts together.
Mike
 
Concur. Grade 8 - with 12 point nuts and high tensile washers.
 
Always liked nice hardware and I agree with what's been said about using the 'right' hardware for specific applications. For certain things a basic quality kit is fine yet in critical areas such as engines and axles, it very important to use the right strength and quality.

I have over the years put together easy to work with kits (exactly the same as what is used on the cNw rebuilds) for those that are building their own machines. I do take the stainless approach in most cases and not saying that it s the only way to go, but it sure looks and works great

http://coloradonortonworks.com/part-cat ... /hardware/

I am also putting together some Master hardware kits, 750, 850 and MkIII, that essentially is every fastener (95%) needed to build a complete bike. Takes the guess work out of what will work and saves a lot of time chasing down all that is needed

Just yesterday I started working with ARP to make some specific hardware for the crank. It will take a couple of months to make this happen but it will replace the somewhat questionable stock hardware available

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
If you are looking for pretty and no corrosion go with the ss, BTW I have SS cylinder through bolts on my Commando, they are very strong , and were very difficult to polish , so there is hardware in ss that will be strong, but most is not. Don't know where I got the cylinder bolts. If you are going for an authentic look you can plate. I use Caswells Copy Cad(zinc plate kit) , however its a lot more work than just replacing as you have to scrutinize, file ,straighten every hex, every thread on every nut and bolt , bead blast them very , very clean and monkey with the plating quite a bit. That's why most go with tossing out the original hardware and replacing it, its much easier. Heres a photo of some plating that I have done recently


nuts and bolts
 
My bike has a variety of threads on the fasteners, so when I work on it I always need ten times as many spanners. Some of the bolts are titanium ex-aircraft, particularly the engine bolts which were threaded down then shortened, so they are UNF, I think that is the best thread, because aircraft hangars are good places to find tricky bits. At Moorabbin near Melbourne there is a hangar full of new old stock - out of shelf life and very cheap. Titanium bolts are difficult tp find. Mine were spares for the Hornet.
 
"I use Caswells Copy Cad(zinc plate kit)"
Jimbo,
How do you like the Caswell product? What are you using for a power supply.
I am thinking of getting one of these kits for the hard to purchase and get P11 nuts and bolts.
Thanks,
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
"I use Caswells Copy Cad(zinc plate kit)"
Jimbo,
How do you like the Caswell product? What are you using for a power supply.
I am thinking of getting one of these kits for the hard to purchase and get P11 nuts and bolts.
Thanks,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...
The power supply is a Caswell SPC9250.
I didn't want another hobby, but that's what it is. You have to be devoted to fool around, practice and such. Like anything I guess, painting, welding etc.

The persons I talked to when I had a problem were very helpful, their manual leaves something be desired. Don't get the degreaser it doesn't do much as far I'm concerned. I use a good bead blast after cleaning the hardware with normal carb cleaners, solvents ,wire wheels etc. Then blow the parts off and go right to the plate.Pm me for more info if you want
 
One more thing, once you get the hang of it , it is very rewarding and you will find that you will want to do all the hardware :mrgreen:
 
I used the Caswell's copy chrome and was not too impressed with it. It's a nickel plate and tarnishes and it's still hard to get the correct thickness with electro plating. I did get an electroless kit but haven't used it yet. Yes, it's like another project and you need a buffer and lots of time. I used carb cleaner for degreaser, it seemed to work. Much easier just to buy the stuff you need as you go along and non critical hardware is easy to come by. You can buff down SS to look like zinc or cad too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

elefantrider
Original vs Reproduction Con Rod Nuts and Loctite
2 3
Replies
49
Views
3,625
elefantrider
elefantrider
N
  • Locked
Which Nut and Bolt?
Replies
8
Views
847
Jdub
Jdub
NortonDominator2020
  • Locked
Titanium bolts and nuts replace———>
2 3 4 5
Replies
83
Views
3,692
Vernon240
Vernon240
Shelby-Right
  • Locked
Stainless nuts bolts and washers NZ guys.
Replies
12
Views
1,029
998cc
998cc
1973x75
Con rod bolts/nuts
Replies
15
Views
2,131
BlotovDaniel
B
Back
Top