been busy again after iom
the primary is sorted and ignition is mounted at crank
i made a small degree disc on the belt^drive so to be able to check/adjust the timing in the future
i also encountered some problems with the RGM (Heyward?) belt . The diafrahma spring would not go in and the slot for the circlip was too narrow .It took some machining to sort this out , only to find the topic about that later
Report this postReply with quoteRe: Primary Belt Drive Pros and Cons?
by comnoz » Sat Oct 08, 2011 4:42 pm
Cons with the RGM drive are the clutch drum usually needs to have 20 or 30 thousanths removed from the outboard end of the splines so there is enough room between the circlip and the splines to allow the diaphram spring to go slightly concave and apply correct pressure to the pressure plate. If you make the clutch stack thicker so the diaphram spring does not need to go concave you will be rewarded with a heavier than necessary clutch pull and more clutch drag.
Sometimes with the RGM front pulley the center will be a little too large and the backside of the pully will contact the crank seal and destroy it. I have had to exchange pulleys or use shim stock under the pully to keep it from going on too far from time to time. JimNo Carbs
the primary is sorted and ignition is mounted at crank
i made a small degree disc on the belt^drive so to be able to check/adjust the timing in the future
i also encountered some problems with the RGM (Heyward?) belt . The diafrahma spring would not go in and the slot for the circlip was too narrow .It took some machining to sort this out , only to find the topic about that later
Report this postReply with quoteRe: Primary Belt Drive Pros and Cons?
by comnoz » Sat Oct 08, 2011 4:42 pm
Cons with the RGM drive are the clutch drum usually needs to have 20 or 30 thousanths removed from the outboard end of the splines so there is enough room between the circlip and the splines to allow the diaphram spring to go slightly concave and apply correct pressure to the pressure plate. If you make the clutch stack thicker so the diaphram spring does not need to go concave you will be rewarded with a heavier than necessary clutch pull and more clutch drag.
Sometimes with the RGM front pulley the center will be a little too large and the backside of the pully will contact the crank seal and destroy it. I have had to exchange pulleys or use shim stock under the pully to keep it from going on too far from time to time. JimNo Carbs